Did you replace just the regulator or did you replace the whole alternator?  Reason I ask is I'm wondering the condition of the brush surface on the rotor.  I believe on the 3G that surface is replaceable (I remember doing it when I rebuilt the 3G for my '89).

 ok I think I found my problem. A bad wire connection melted my fuse block, didnt blow the fuse because it was not load related but melted it real good. Installed new wire and fuse block. tested and was charging at 13.9-14.2 I think its fixed.

Did you check the diodes?  One, or more could be defective.  Although my experience is not the automotive field, most diodes fail 'open', but sometimes they fail 'closed', and failing closed can cause more problems than failing open. 

Seems to be working now, I went in and re torqed the 2 screws just incase and have been running 14-14.2 and with AC blasting, the electric vac pump comming on when stopping and oh yeah the tunes cranked to hear over the exhust it is pumping out 3.6-13.8. At a idle with all on its 12.5-6. headlights dont seam to draw as they are LED. So I think its ok now. Did think about adding Ideal NoLoc corrosion inhibitor in the 2 ends of the fuse block and mite just do that anyway, cant hurt. 
All of these readings are from the Holly EFI control box witch is wired direct to the battery

Last edited by Cab4word67 (7/31/2023 11:42 PM)

I agree with TKO, even with everything on, at an idle it should be charging more than 12.5-6 volts.
What is your idle RPM?
At what RPM, above idle, does the voltage increase to the 13.5-8volts?
 

Yes all standard pullys. including the one on the alt from performance. I will check again today. Idle is 750-775. It only shows this as a flashing low indacater at idle on the holley screen witch is powered direct from battery. I will check today. Need to move the cars anyway.

OK I think we are all repaired now. Putting out 13.9-14-2 and 13.4-6 with AC on and fan running with foot on the brake.  There is no voltage drop from alt to battery. I replaced the plug set on the alt with new and all it tight fitting now.

LOL then the belt got loose. I cant win for trying

Poor connection somewhere.  When it passes a lot of current it gets hot.  Heat means more resistance and more resistance means more heat.  It's a self-licking ice cream cone.  Are you running a stock harness with the firewall connectors? 

Agree, check the connections, both positive and ground.
Also, re-reading your posts, it appears that your using two regulators ("dummy fender regulator").  From the wiring diagrams I see both the 2G and 3G alternators have internal regulators.  I suggest calling PA to verify this is dummy fender regulator is needed, or not.