I try and locate one of my tapered sockets. Im pretty sure I have one that tapered in  one of my tool boxes. I need to probably pull all my tool boxes outside on driveway go through them all and organize my tools. I got so many tool boxes I dunno many I need to down size. Lol. Except I need a tool box for work. Is it a problem when I have a like 9 tool boxes and I cant decide which one if any out of any of them to take into my new job. 🤔  sorry that was off topic a lil. My other question do to not wanting to start another thread wss this I think my front bolts on both sides drivers and passenger side the bolts are rusted in the reinforcment sleeves on the fron of my sleaf springs. I have cut the heads off the bolts thinking Ill punch them out they will not budge. I ended up getting a regular dewalt 20v recipreocating sawzal and cut the bolt further in the gap between leaf and the right side of the mount it the leafs bolt to. I cannnot fit a regualar cordless sawzal into the left side gap between the leaf and the shackle. It just bends the blade. Maybe I havent tried hard enough or had a decent blade. They we just the cheap regular dewalt 14tpi blades. Dont worry im not married to the Brand. Lol. I was thinking of maybe trying a kobalt corded Body panel Saw. They have a narrow body to them. Im sure one of those or maybe a pneumatic one would work. I have to sort out the  hose for the cross over between heads on my air compressor. I purchased a new hose for my air compressor just hoping it will last more then one use. I forgot to add a secure strap or something to the cross over hose and it rattled and the pulley got to it barely enough of a pin hole so the air compressor wont build pressure. Funny enough some how the stock stainless or atlesst the one that was on it when I bought it leaked like a siv but the unit still built pressure when I purchased the unit. Anyways any ideas on getting the leaf springs free on my 1965 Mustang coupe?

Angle grinder with a cutting wheel should be MANDATORY for any work on an automobile 50 years old or more.
                             "When in doubt.......git-out the grinder !"......Henry Ford 1914
6sal6

Nos681 wrote:

I think you misunderstood my description.

Many sockets have a slight taper to slip onto the fastener.

Some of the impact sockets have a flat face at opening.

Make sense?

As for leaf spring, try a jig saw with a carbide blade to cut bolt or a torch to heat up the eye of spring only.

Dont beleive I mis understood. I do tend to get a lil off subjects due to me new medication. But Then again maybe, I miss understood you. I dont believe I did though.
I have several socket sets. I have sets that are fully straight sockets not real taper to the end. I also have sets with sockets with no taper to them as well. I have quite a few tool boxes. Haha i got a few good deals when working at lowes. They give good discounts on clearance and stuff. I got their 56" craftsman work table that has the option of a right side leg to be switched for a 4 or 5 drawer tool box. I got that table for $50.00 one of the tool boxes I got was a $100. Ill try finding a tapered socket and see if that helps me get the Nut loose. I am trying to remove the nuts on the inside closest to the shock tower.   For the leaf springs thats a great idea using a jig saw!! I will try that next. I beleive that might just get in there.  That or a bugger diameter cut off blade for the grinder like below commet. Thanks for your suggestions and help for my suspension removal.

Nos681 wrote:

I think you misunderstood my description.

Many sockets have a slight taper to slip onto the fastener.

Some of the impact sockets have a flat face at opening.

Make sense?

As for leaf spring, try a jig saw with a carbide blade to cut bolt or a torch to heat up the eye of spring only.

Wait read your comment again. On the very face of the socket it has a taper? Or are you talking at the body of the socket being tapered? I dont recolect having or seeing any sockets atleast rhat that I own that have a tapered face. If you meaning the very face of the socket that sits against the surface around the bolt head. Ill need to find a deep or more likely a mid length socket. 1/2" drive is to big. 3/8 drive deeps barelly fit in the pocket space we have to work with.  I  dont know if a wrench will be able to get onto the nuts on the front shock lower mounting nuts. Ill try maybe a crows foot or a box crows foot as well as above mentioned.

I do have one other option on the rear leaf spring bolts that most do not have. I have removed the rusted reinforcment panel that is spot welded to top side of the rear frame rails. I have access to the rusted fron leafspring bolt reinforcments. I could cut them out if I absolutely have to. Ill try and not resort to that thou.

"On the very face of the socket it has a taper? Or are you talking at the body of the socket being tapered?"

Most sockets have a short internal taper to help guide the socket onto a bolt head or a nut. This portion of the socket does not grip the hex when tightening or loosening. If you are using one of these sockets on a thin nut such as a jam nut there is very little "purchase" between the socket and the nut. It is common practice to use a bench grinder to grind away the tapered end of the socket so that the socket achieves full purchase on the nut.

Never really needed to grind down any sockets yet. Ill try that.   Ive usually had luck with just a simple 1/4" drive ratchet and a 1/2" deep socket  without and exstention slipped between the coil spring perch gap. I need to get my car mounted securely on the jig. Then ill try a jack again again under the lower control arm I thought about that as well. Thanks for the comment MS.  Ill Try tour Suggestion.

Lathes make for easy socket mods.

Just get the control arm level, and the nuts will magically not be hidden any more.