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The only difference in the oil pan is the two rear boltholes and the radius of the rear seal that fits around the rear main cap.
Bullet is going to help machine a filler piece to take up the gap and I am going to drill/tap the block for two more holes.
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Some liberal use of RTV around that rear radius may be in order ... just saying.
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I have an idea...
This guy says he can cut different sizes.
Also notice I only used 3 periods.
Edit: This one is closer
Last edited by Greg B (8/05/2023 4:43 PM)
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OK for us less experienced guys, WHY? Bigger pan or you just like the 351 pan you have. Seems like another place to leak. Just wondering.
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Greg B wrote:
I have an idea...
This guy says he can cut different sizes.
Also notice I only used 3 periods.
Edit: This one is closer
Thanks, Greg. That is the route we were heading. Make a thin ring with a cross-section that fits the gap closely. I used Play-Doh to get the dimensions. Bullet was going to make a ring and then cut it in half. That way, some other idiot can try this same thing.
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wsinsle wrote:
OK for us less experienced guys, WHY? Bigger pan or you just like the 351 pan you have. Seems like another place to leak. Just wondering.
Why, you ask? Well, I have a brand new aluminum T-pan for a 351w that has been hanging on my wall for more than ten years. I used to sell them, and I kept one because I like it. It would not fit my 427 stroker in the 66 because it would not clear the four bolt rear main cap. They are no longer reproduced by anybody. A new Cobra aluminum T-pan from Branda for a 289 is about $800 with shipping.
I would like to have an aluminum T-pan on my 65 convertible because I think they look cool.
This is just a very inexpensive way to utilize the pan I have and not spend all my restoration budget on something as frivolous as a cool looking oil pan. The pan holds seven quarts, but I consider that a con since every upcoming oil change will cost more than if I just had a five quart pan.
I am confident that I can make this work without leaking.
Like a pretty woman, those looks keep on costing you…
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Greg B wrote:
I have an idea...
Also notice I only used 3 periods.
Those in the business call them an ellipsis.
Last edited by Bearing Bob (8/12/2023 3:21 PM)
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Ya mean, “dot, dot, dot?”
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Nos681 wrote:
Ya mean, “dot, dot, dot?”
I think that … is S, the first letter in
… …. .. _ !
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MS wrote:
wsinsle wrote:
OK for us less experienced guys, WHY? Bigger pan or you just like the 351 pan you have. Seems like another place to leak. Just wondering.
The pan holds seven quarts, but I consider that a con since every upcoming oil change will cost more than if I just had a five quart pan. .
…
Who sez ye gotta use 7 quarts ?
Put pick up close to the bottom of the pan and dump ye 5 quarts of oil in it ........ye got'cha self a nice windage tray without the tray!
6s6
Last edited by 6sally6 (8/06/2023 4:53 PM)
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I thought about that, sal. But I am afraid that , with the added width of the bottom sump, the oil might not be deep enough and cornering might result in cavitation. I think it would resemble running a five quart pan with only three quarts in it. This thing is over 12” wide inside. Probably safer to just run the 7 quarts. Or, maybe throw a couple of bricks in it raise the five quart level similar to some people putting bricks in their toilet tank to conserve water.
Since it only will get an oil change once a year, most likely, I think I will just spring for the extra two quarts. If that is the most expensive thing I have to spend on a Mustang, life will be good.
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Can't wait to see the billet ring Bullet made for this. He started with a 2' x 4' x 1" thick aluminum billet. I think he just likes making chips for any reason.
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MS wrote:
Can't wait to see the billet ring Bullet made for this. He started with a 2' x 4' x 1" thick aluminum billet. I think he just likes making chips for any reason.
Who doesn't? I've been known to clean up the ends of short tubing pieces. Chuck them in the lathe and face them. Ya know, just so they look nice. One time I cleaned up 2 pieces of 1 inch .095 wall tube one after the other, and they both came out the same length, without measuring as I cut. To the thousands of an inch. Hey, it's good therapy.
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Often I measured twice and cut once and it was still wrong
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I would have thought you would want to use some type of softer aluminum so it would have a tad bit of crush conformity to it. If it turns out really tight clearance wise, instead of silicone, maybe a type of anaerobic sealant like is used on tightly machined aluminum parts like European engines use, or a combination of both.
Online!
Trust me, Greg, it won't fit that tight. MS keeps giving me dimensions labeled as +/- .25.
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ah, I can just see all this meticulous work be shaved off by the first speed bump the custom pan will not clear...
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Bullet Bob wrote:
Trust me, Greg, it won't fit that tight. MS keeps giving me dimensions labeled as +/- .25.
+ or - .25"? For that you can use a tape measure.
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Just like the aircraft industry.
Measure it with a micrometer
Mark it with a grease pencil.
Cut it with an axe.
I keep telling Bullet to just get it in the ballpark because I do own a 40 grit flapper wheel and a grinder. And it will require less RTV than an oil pan job usually requires.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
Trust me, Greg, it won't fit that tight. MS keeps giving me dimensions labeled as +/- .25.
He is just measuring in MM.
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MS wrote:
Just like the aircraft industry.
Measure it with a micrometer
Mark it with a grease pencil.
Cut it with an axe.
I keep telling Bullet to just get it in the ballpark because I do own a 40 grit flapper wheel and a grinder. And it will require less RTV than an oil pan job usually requires.
Hey, I like that 2nd step. We always used to say "measure with a micrometer, cut it with an axe." The grease pencil adds another layer to the @#%$ sandwich.
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Do they even MAKE grease pencils any more?
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In my line of work, it was …
Measure it with a micrometer
Mark it with a chalk.
Cut it with an axe.
(not sure if chalk is sold anymore either)
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MS wrote:
Do they even MAKE grease pencils any more?
Yep. I use them to mark tile because the mark doesn't wash off in the wet saw.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
MS wrote:
Do they even MAKE grease pencils any more?
Yep. I use them to mark tile because the mark doesn't wash off in the wet saw.
Me too, I have many uses for Crayons in the shop.
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