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Hey Guys,
I replaced this front seal about 6 years ago along with the timing cover. I noticed a oil leak on the front of the engine the last couple of years. I was tearing down and parting out my old engine and want to make sure when I install the balancer I don't have this issue on the new engine. When I installed my balancer I put a thin layer of grease on the seal to make sure what is pictured didn't happen. Do you think the timing cover was not centered with the balancer when I installed it?
Thanks
Steve69
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So for 4 years you had no leaks butt-fur the last 2 you had a leak ? Hmmmmmmm.......
Me tinkz if you had screwed the install by not centering the cover it woulda started leaking sooner.
Did you rub the crank (pun intended !) with emory cloth to insure no burrz were felt?
6sally6
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While rubbing the crank might be a whole lot of fun for some, the sealing surface is on the harmonic balancer.
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Look at the sealing surface on the balancer. If its trashed I'd just replace it. Summit/Trick Flow make a nice one that has multiple timing mark locations and works for 28 or 50 oz. imbalance.
Other than that, get a good seal like an SKF or Timken. I've had cheap seals leak almost immediately (Chinese junk).
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Install a Fel-Pro harmonic balancer repair sleeve. It will make the seal surface better than new. Under $10.
They make them for rear main seals also. I routinely install them on rear main sealing area of the crankshaft, even with a brand new crank. It makes the seal fit a little better than original and provides a chrome hard sealing surface.
I have never had one leak after installing the repair sleeve.
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MS wrote:
Install a Fel-Pro harmonic balancer repair sleeve. It will make the seal surface better than new. Under $10.
They make them for rear main seals also. I routinely install them on rear main sealing area of the crankshaft, even with a brand new crank. It makes the seal fit a little better than original and provides a chrome hard sealing surface.
I have never had one leak after installing the repair sleeve.
Thanks for sharing this! I've never heard of this kit. The rear main seal on my car has leaked (nothing major) for years. I wonder how difficult it is to fit this kit with the engine in the car?
Last edited by Toploader (8/23/2023 3:01 PM)
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It was a brand-new harmonic balancer I installed when I changed the front dress. Ill install that felpro sleeve on it before I install it on the new engine. I did a great job with the MS sealing of the oil pan to the timing cover. The cover and pan came off together and I had to use some force to pull the timing cover off from the oil pan...LOL Thanks for the help guys.
Steve69
Last edited by Steve69 (8/23/2023 3:08 PM)
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6sally6 wrote:
So for 4 years you had no leaks butt-fur the last 2 you had a leak ? Hmmmmmmm.......
Me tinkz if you had screwed the install by not centering the cover it woulda started leaking sooner.
Did you rub the crank (pun intended !) with emory cloth to insure no burrz were felt?
6sally6
It could of started leaking earlier. I just wasn't 100% where it was coming from. I thought it might of been the power steering hose. The front sway bar had oil on it I ruled that out...LOL
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Toploader wrote:
MS wrote:
Install a Fel-Pro harmonic balancer repair sleeve. It will make the seal surface better than new. Under $10.
They make them for rear main seals also. I routinely install them on rear main sealing area of the crankshaft, even with a brand new crank. It makes the seal fit a little better than original and provides a chrome hard sealing surface.
I have never had one leak after installing the repair sleeve.Thanks for sharing this! I've never heard of this kit. The rear main seal on my car has leaked (nothing major) for years. I wonder how difficult it is to fit this kit with the engine in the car?
Just pull the harmonic balancer and the front seal. I see you have the later style timing cover so the seal can be replaced without pulling the cover. Put the repair sleeve on the balancer, lube and install the new seal and button it up.
On the rear seal, if you have a block with a one-piece seal it is super easy. Just pull tranny and flywheel. The rear sleeve requires a special tool to install, but it can be done without the tool. I bought the tool and it makes it SOOO much easier. If you have a two piece rear seal you will need to pull the rear main cap off and, of course, tranny, flywheel AND oil pan.
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MS wrote:
Install a Fel-Pro harmonic balancer repair sleeve. It will make the seal surface better than new. Under $10.
They make them for rear main seals also. I routinely install them on rear main sealing area of the crankshaft, even with a brand new crank. It makes the seal fit a little better than original and provides a chrome hard sealing surface.
I have never had one leak after installing the repair sleeve.
Are these only for a one piece rear seal?
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Bearing Bob wrote:
MS wrote:
Install a Fel-Pro harmonic balancer repair sleeve. It will make the seal surface better than new. Under $10.
They make them for rear main seals also. I routinely install them on rear main sealing area of the crankshaft, even with a brand new crank. It makes the seal fit a little better than original and provides a chrome hard sealing surface.
I have never had one leak after installing the repair sleeve.
Are these only for a one piece rear seal?
Pretty sure you can get one for two-piece rear seal, but all the ones I have used recently were on a one-piece. I will have to check in order to give a more definitive answer.
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MS wrote:
Install a Fel-Pro harmonic balancer repair sleeve. It will make the seal surface better than new. Under $10.
They make them for rear main seals also. I routinely install them on rear main sealing area of the crankshaft, even with a brand new crank. It makes the seal fit a little better than original and provides a chrome hard sealing surface.
I have never had one leak after installing the repair sleeve.
In building by new 6.0 powerstroke I learned something interesting. The crank uses sleeves on both ends from the factory. IMO, you want to look at how to build an engine to last you look at a Diesel. That engine better give you 500k worth of service or it gets labeled a dud. So, properly installed I think sleeves are a great idea.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
MS wrote:
Install a Fel-Pro harmonic balancer repair sleeve. It will make the seal surface better than new. Under $10.
They make them for rear main seals also. I routinely install them on rear main sealing area of the crankshaft, even with a brand new crank. It makes the seal fit a little better than original and provides a chrome hard sealing surface.
I have never had one leak after installing the repair sleeve.
Are these only for a one piece rear seal?
Im pretty sure you can use the sleeve on both on the rear of the crankshaft. I put one on my 302 I pulled back around 2013 and on my son's 1994 351 with one piece rear seal.
Im debating about installing one on the new Blue Print engine I ordered. I think I might just do it to be on the safe side and not have to worry about leaks.
Steve69
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TKOPerformance wrote:
MS wrote:
Install a Fel-Pro harmonic balancer repair sleeve. It will make the seal surface better than new. Under $10.
They make them for rear main seals also. I routinely install them on rear main sealing area of the crankshaft, even with a brand new crank. It makes the seal fit a little better than original and provides a chrome hard sealing surface.
I have never had one leak after installing the repair sleeve.In building by new 6.0 powerstroke I learned something interesting. The crank uses sleeves on both ends from the factory. IMO, you want to look at how to build an engine to last you look at a Diesel. That engine better give you 500k worth of service or it gets labeled a dud. So, properly installed I think sleeves are a great idea.
That makes sense!
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Didn't the old crankshafts that used rope type seals actually have small diagonal grooves in them?
Definitely use the sleeve on that!
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Greg B wrote:
Didn't the old crankshafts that used rope type seals actually have small diagonal grooves in them?
Definitely use the sleeve on that!
Not sure, but crazy as that was GM was still using rope seals on the 6.2 Diesels in the '90s! That was really a crowning touch on what was already a toilet of an engine.
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You can find a picture of anything on the Internet. Now I want to open the 289 up and install a sleeve. How can a rubber seal even have a fair chance with that crank surface.
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As my Gran-paw would have said......" us'in that dad burn slick a$$ new fangled oil on 'em is gonna make 'em leak !"
6sal6
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Tip for reinstalling the top half of your new seal without lowering the crank:
Oil the groove and the seal. Press HARD on the seal, forcing it right up against the crank journal as you push it in there by hand. If you don’t press it hard against the crank, enough to deform the actual seal lip as it goes in, the edge of the groove will start shaving off the outer edge of the seal. Push it in by hand until about 3/8” of the seal is still sticking out. It will slide in there real easy if you push it against the crank. Align the mating seal so it matches that dimension in the main cap.
Do not put sealer on the ends of the two seals. Put a paper thin layer of RTV on the corners of the main cap so oil can not get through the cap’s mating surface. Do not get any RTV on the seal itself. Be sure to oil the seal before buttoning it back together.
Use only RTV for the oil pan end seals, or, you can even just use RTV for the entire pan. It will seal better than any gasket.
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MS wrote:
Tip for reinstalling the top half of your new seal without lowering the crank:
Oil the groove and the seal. Press HARD on the seal, forcing it right up against the crank journal as you push it in there by hand. If you don’t press it hard against the crank, enough to deform the actual seal lip as it goes in, the edge of the groove will start shaving off the outer edge of the seal. Push it in by hand until about 3/8” of the seal is still sticking out. It will slide in there real easy if you push it against the crank. Align the mating seal so it matches that dimension in the main cap.
Do not put sealer on the ends of the two seals. Put a paper thin layer of RTV on the corners of the main cap so oil can not get through the cap’s mating surface. Do not get any RTV on the seal itself. Be sure to oil the seal before buttoning it back together.
Use only RTV for the oil pan end seals, or, you can even just use RTV for the entire pan. It will seal better than any gasket.
I did that once and ended up shaving the seal. On the 3rd time I did loosen mains and lowered the crank down for more room. But even after all that mine still leaked a little bit. I said I would never ever drop that pan in the engine unless I was pulling the engine out to replace it...LOL I had a rack I also had to drop down too that was in the way. Steve69
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Kinda late to the party but I assume that you know that you leave the timing cover bolts loose until you have the damper installed. That allows the seal to center itself over the damper so you don't get uneven wear.
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John Ha wrote:
Kinda late to the party but I assume that you know that you leave the timing cover bolts loose until you have the damper installed. That allows the seal to center itself over the damper so you don't get uneven wear.
GOOD info to remember !!!!
6sal6
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6sally6 wrote:
John Ha wrote:
Kinda late to the party but I assume that you know that you leave the timing cover bolts loose until you have the damper installed. That allows the seal to center itself over the damper so you don't get uneven wear.
GOOD info to remember !!!!
6sal6
You really think you'll remember that Sal?
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Bearing Bob wrote:
6sally6 wrote:
John Ha wrote:
Kinda late to the party but I assume that you know that you leave the timing cover bolts loose until you have the damper installed. That allows the seal to center itself over the damper so you don't get uneven wear.
GOOD info to remember !!!!
6sal6
You really think you'll remember that Sal?
LOL Lately I have to take a pic or reminders on my phone....LOL
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OH YEAH !!!!!!
I tear down and rebuild SBF's alllll the time.....
6s6
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