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Of course I haven't started it in the last month. (knee injury). Just happens to be right at 60 months old. Here's the thing...
I called the local dealer to see if they had a BTX 96r in stock, and they do, but they insisted that I bring the car in and they would install it. No warranty otherwise. I explained its doa, they said they'd tow it. Anyways.... I feel like this is bunk. Anyone heard of a dealer doing this?
Its out of warranty, obviously. But it was replaced under warranty back in 2018 at the same dealer building. That dealer went out of business and current dealer is now there.
I wanted to keep it Motorcraft, but if them is their rules I guess I won't be.
2016 Ford Mustang v6 25,000 miles.
Ps. I was offered 18,000 cash for it recently, and I turned it down. But it was tempting. Trash man noticed it hadn't been moving around lately. He bought my 65 coupe back in 2010. I didn't think to ask him what he done with it.
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Wow. I'll have to check with my son - he has a 2016 GT and still has the original battery. And you've had yours replaced once already? His sits quite a bit too as he works from home.
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If they are covering it under warranty that's probably true. Or are they claiming that if you buy it and they don't install it its not covered under warranty? If that's the claim I'd ask why the battery is any different than any other Motorcraft part. I recently had two Motocraft power steering lines fail. One right after installation the other about a month or two later. I was told bring the old ones in and they'd give me new ones. I passed on that offer because junk is junk IMO. I used lines from my local NAPA and both are fine after several months of use.
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No I told them I know its out of warranty. They said they had too many batteries come back so they sell them installed, so they control the parameters.
I haven't yet figured out if this is a new dealer thing, or if its a just that dealer thing.
I did figure out if I have my heart set on a Motorcraft, O'Reilly's can get it for me in a couple of days.
96r batteries are a tad hard to find around here right now.
Its been on the charger all day. I'm fixing to go out and see if it will start and what kind of voltage its showing.
The ultimate problem is probably lack of driving it enough.
Edit: I just went out and piddled with it. After sitting on the charger all day its got 1.64 volts. Time to hunt a new battery.
Last edited by Greg B (10/11/2023 4:17 PM)
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Do you have a battery tender? I have one for the Mustang when I can't drive it as I should.
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It shouldn't go dead in a month. My '67 sits all winter with no tender and the battery isn't so low it won't start come spring. My WRX can sit for months between drives and still always starts. Regular old lead/acid batteries from NAPA in both. Typically I've found OEM batteries (excepting my Diesel truck) have gone 7-10 years without issue. If yours is toast in 5 I'd say either its defective, or like everything else Ford is just buying cheaply made batteries nowadays.
My advice would be buy an AGM battery. The issue I hear with a lot of lead/acid batteries now is the overuse of recycled lead. The impurities in it lead to shorter life. I put a pair of AGMs in my Diesel and though it was an investment it was well worth it. I'll spare you the saga of the batteries in that truck.
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Just a guess, the car has some sort of “telemetry…tracking…remote diagnostics” killing your battery.
At work, vehicle tracking was added to Ford, bowtie, Toyota, Buicks, snowmobiles, four wheelers, off-road track vehicles…for “our safety.”
It has caused battery issues especially during winter and on vehicles not regularly driven/used.
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Remember, as it is a 2016 model, it likely has power going to the car's computer as well as the radio pre-sets and clock. While these are small current draws, if it is an old battery, the impact would be greater.
I had to replace the battery in my daily driver last year w/o haven't to bring it to the dealer for replacement.
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Does it have the "automatic shut-off" when stopped at traffic lights and such?
The constant start/stop of the engine HAS TO take a toll on batteries AND starters.
6sal6
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6sally6 wrote:
Does it have the "automatic shut-off" when stopped at traffic lights and such?
The constant start/stop of the engine HAS TO take a toll on batteries AND starters.
6sal6
AND the ENGINE! I was always told the worst thing you can do to an engine is start it. I know everything runs a rollerized valve train and synthetic oil now, but most engine wear still occurs at start up. . So long as the engine makes it past the warranty period the manufacturer could care less how long it lives. Their goal is meet emissions and get it out of warranty without having to do any work to it.
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6sally6 wrote:
Does it have the "automatic shut-off" when stopped at traffic lights and such?
The constant start/stop of the engine HAS TO take a toll on batteries AND starters.
6sal6
No. But that is a pain in the a$$$. My wife's 2019 jeep has that and I hate it. I immediately hit the off button but she uses it. I argue that exact same argument with her all the time, that its a battery killer. Of course that battery died at 37 months and was out of warranty. She still uses it. Didn't learn a thing.
The Dodge Caravan we had the original battery lasted 8+ years. It still didn't die. The end for it was a battery post completely came off.
The Avenger that replaced it the battery also lasted 8 years before it gave up the ghost.
Two differences I can think of. One, they were driven every day. Two, that era of Mopar factory batteries were probably pretty good.
Anyways, I am not happy with the battery I got. I chased battery yesterday and everyone had to order. I finally would up with an ever start + from the evil empire after going to three. The one I found it at had two, and someone had moved them to the back off their rack. Must be a lot of models of cars take a 96r. I'm fixing to go put it in today. After I got back with it yesterday, I didn't feel like messing with it. Battery season!
Edit: no tracking devices I know of unless its factory, I bought it new. if there is a problem I will find it.
Last edited by Greg B (10/13/2023 10:16 AM)
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My understanding is that a lead acid battery starts sulfating at 80% charge. This means sulfur crystals start forming on the lead plates from the battery acid. This is why you want to keep your battery above 80%. Cars that have anything that has a "memory", like stereos with clocks and presets or ECUs, are always drawing energy from the battery. This is why these cars need a trickle charger if they are not being driven regularly. This is probably what killed your battery. Keep the new battery above 80% charge to keep it free of the sulfur crystals..
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6sally6 wrote:
Does it have the "automatic shut-off" when stopped at traffic lights and such?
6sal6
My F150 has that dang feature, and a button to shut it off, but I always forget to press the button, so I watched a video and hooked up my laptop and overwrote the code to permanently shut it off!! Hehe, makes me happier, and the truck too.
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