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I’m trying to make an idler am that eliminates the rubber bushing on the end that goes onto the drag link.
I’d like to make a replacement solid bushing from graphite infused uhmv polyethylene .
How do you all think it would stand up compared to the o/e rubber thing.
I still plan on using the zerk for lube.
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At the iron ore plant, UHMW was used to line the conveyor belts.
Don’t know what kind it was.
From what I have seen:
Very durable
Naturally slippery surface without lubrication required
Very heat resistant
With a lubrication groove(s)/spiral, should last a very long time.
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What would concern me is that the idler arm bushings provide some of your return to center in the steering. I think you're only looking at the bushing in compression. Its mostly loaded in shear, and the rubber acts like a spring being coiled up and then uncoiling to return the steering to center.
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Return to center is also affected by caster.
Rudi has electric power steering.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
What would concern me is that the idler arm bushings provide some of your return to center in the steering. I think you're only looking at the bushing in compression. Its mostly loaded in shear, and the rubber acts like a spring being coiled up and then uncoiling to return the steering to center.
True . . . but I’m looking at an alternative for roller bearing idler arms that are a popular modification out there in the Mustang world.
I’ve seen idler arms with Delrin bushings on older Ford vans.
Like the lieutenant said my RTC is very good with EPAS and the present idler arm has double rod ends.
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I think it's Opentracker who makes a roller unit. He sells the bearing kit if your a cheap bastard like me.
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Bob , I’m thrifty as well, sometimes to the extreme.
As for Opentracker , I have spoken with John and he will sell me the bearings only for the conversion, the rest I could machine myself, cheap on my side again.
I have all the materials on hand to do the mod my way but I wanted you expert do it yourselfers opinions.
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Rudi wrote:
Butt I wanted you expert do it yourselfers opinions.
"Idle hands are the devil's workshop...."
Some of our hands are.....wait-for-it....idler !
My expert yourselfer opinion.....
6sally6
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6sally6 wrote:
Rudi wrote:
Butt I wanted you expert do it yourselfers opinions.
"Idle hands are the devil's workshop...."
Some of our hands are.....wait-for-it....idler !
My expert yourselfer opinion.....
6sally6
Sal…you’re the “ ‘Merican Idler” 😁
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From my early research and experience, the only idler arm that contributes to "return to center" is the power steering arm. It has a significantly larger bushing as well as being designed to positively lock down the inner and outer diameter of the bushing.
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That’s the specific idler arm I’m looking for to modify.not concerned about RTC.
But I don’t want to butcher a new one and none that I have are like that, all have a rod end at the frame bracket, none with a stud and nut.
Rock Auto has a picture but I can’t seem to post a link.
It’s a Mevotech G8161.
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Thank you for the picture Bob, you young fellers sure can do some neat stuff!
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I like the Mevotech design to use the UHMW bearing.
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Nos681 wrote:
I like the Mevotech design to use the UHMW bearing.
Yep . . . . that looks like the one to use.
Now to find a used one to modify. I don’t want to cut up a new one.
Last edited by Rudi (10/24/2023 11:30 AM)
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Perhaps this may help.
Take a look at its use.
Last edited by Nos681 (10/24/2023 1:16 PM)
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Bob,
Thanks for the info , that’s a great price for the 1 1/2” rods, way less than in Canada
Dan,
I read the material specifications, the stuff looks like a miracle material.
Than again guys.👍
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FWIW I've been using Mevotech chassis parts exclusively on my big trucks and am VERY happy with them. They are not cheap, but that goes for every sense of that word too. They are well built, include all hardware, zerks, zerk caps, and ball joints even include an adapter to make pressing them in easier. I had a set of MOOG lifetime tie rod ends that were shot in 20,000 miles. No zerks in them, don't say MOOG on them anywhere. Only the box says MOOG. I was told they couldn't be replaced under the lifetime warranty because they didn't say MOOG on them. I have the receipt, boxes, etc., and they still won't honor the warranty. Fine, I'll just swear off MOOG and use Mevotech from now on.
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The Chinese b*****ds are counterfeiting everything, most troubling are the going into commercial aviation.
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Rudi wrote:
The Chinese b*****ds are counterfeiting everything, most troubling are the going into commercial aviation.
My understanding is that at some point MOOG parts were being replaced by TRW parts in MOOG boxes.
Oh, commercial aviation is the least of it. The new nuclear reactor that just went online in Tennessee is a design licensed to China. If that doesn't turn your #$%^ white I don't know what will.
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Why would the US buy a Chinese reactor when one the safest reactors is the CANDU designed right next door in Canada. Knowing how china operates its probably programmed for a meltdown in the future. China and Russia have stated they want to replace the US as the worlds superpower.
The CANDU has been licensed and built in many places around the world with an impressive safety record.
I wonder who designed the Three mile Island , Fukushima and Chernobyl reactors.
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From what I read it was a modular design, able to be built in several output sizes at lower cost. There were engineers who reviewed it that though the shielding was inadequate in the event of an incident. All of this to me SCREAMS stay away, but I don't have any faith our government is that smart.
The RBMK reactor at Chernobyl was actually a pretty good design and put our a lot of power for its size. There are still quite a few in operation, though they did make modifications to them post Chernobyl meltdown. What led to the Chernobyl meltdown seems to have been a series of small things which taken individually wouldn't have necessarily been catastrophic, but in combination were. That reactor was Soviet built, but in a system where those who see potential problems are sent to the gulag, well, we all know what happened. Not a failure we can attribute to Chinese communism, but certainly to communism in general.
Fukishima was a Japanese built reactor. The issue there was the earthquake, but in fairness in the '90s we had warned them that an earthquake could cause a cooling system failure and lead to a radioactive release and they promptly did nothing to prepare for it. I don't see the Japanese using anything made in China; they're smarter than that.
What we should have learned is that nuclear power is perfectly safe if the proper controls and systems are in place. Our Navy proved that. I think we need to remember that all those US Navy nuke plants were built in the US, and initial cost is only one factor to consider. Especially when nuclear is the cleanest energy we have at this time, and every incident, whether on our soil or not, sets the cause of adding more nuke plants back a decade or two.
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Rudi wrote:
I’m trying to make an idler am that eliminates the rubber bushing on the end that goes onto the drag link.
I’d like to make a replacement solid bushing from graphite infused uhmv polyethylene .
How do you all think it would stand up compared to the o/e rubber thing.
I still plan on using the zerk for lube.
Back to the original post I think that UHMW would work fine for that. When I first started my Jaguar project I was able to buy UHMW bushings to replace a bunch of bearings in the Jaguar upright (hub carrier) eliminated a lot of setup and for the differential end of the wishbones. The company I purchased them from is no longer in business but the bushings are still available on the market from other suppliers. My point being if the material works there under the full weight of the vehicle I can not see why it would not be very effective in the idler arm.
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I have considered using UHMW for spring perches instead of rubber bronze ,ball bearings or polyurethane .
That project might happen before the idler arm, or not!🤪
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