| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
Been putting off forever. Learned one thing today😃😃😃
It's much easier to deal with the darn brake shoes when the axle is out of the way! Nasty coming off, went back together in about five minutes! 1). Older and smarter. Took a picture first. Lol 2) use a temporary bolt to hold the backing plate in place.
Offline
What model Jeep Greg? Cherokee? Grand Cherokee? Or?
Offline
That's my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
To make it Mustang related its hauled parts, AND been to a bash.
I'm going to git her up and back on the road, she still runs great and is pretty much rust free.
I don't drive much anymore. I have a plan. I'm going to dare I say it....sell the 2016 Mustang and put the proceeds forth on getting back on my 66 convertible.
I've had Ruby for 7 years. Time for someone else to enjoy.
Offline
Greg B wrote:
That's my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
To make it Mustang related its hauled parts, AND been to a bash.
I'm going to git her up and back on the road, she still runs great and is pretty much rust free.
I don't drive much anymore. I have a plan. I'm going to dare I say it....sell the 2016 Mustang and put the proceeds forth on getting back on my 66 convertible.
I've had Ruby for 7 years. Time for someone else to enjoy.
I thought I recognized that rear end. I too have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland. 195K on it now, but still working great. I did have the 4.7L HO suck a #7 intake valve back in 2015. Rebuilt the engine and have a about 21KÂ on it now. Those parking brake shoes are a pain to change. Removing the axles is a good idea. I went nuts a couple of years ago and replaced all the control arms, sway bar links, shocks, upper and lower rubber spring isolators, transmission mount to stop all the rattles and squeaks. Smooth and quiet now. I also replaced the front axle due to making metal. I found a 2003 Overland assy with only 32K on it for a really good price. It is my hunting rig and my spare tire if I'm not driving the 2017 Explorer.
Â
Offline
I had to replace the axle seal. It would not pass Mo. inspection with the gear oil on the e brake shoes. I got this side back together. It got new seal, bearing, e brake shoes, rotor and pads, and a shocker absorber. Its got about 134,000 miles. It seems to need the sway bar end links. Those are not looking too good.
Anyways, halfway done. I started on the other side, but I beat on the wheel for over an hour, and could not get it off. I hurt my back and pulled some rib muscles beating on it. I beat on it, kicked on it, pulled and yanked, tried leverage, everything I could think of, I can't lift my arm over my head today, lol. Defeated by a wheel and tire... That thing is welded on there. I don't know when.I'm going to be able to get to it now, kind of the last good day of the year. I don't have room to work on it inside.
I had this happen once before on a car I was working on. Couldn't get the wheel off no matter what. I wound up using a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller between the spokes and pushed it off. But it wouldn't fit here. I tried a bolt and a big washer and nut to accomplish the same expansion effect, but the spokes on the aluminum are not flat, it would not stay in place. Then I got out a gear puller, but I have three jaw pullers, the spoke are not orientated in a way it would fit.
Out of the zillion tools I have, I do not have large two jaw pullers. I ran to HF yesterday and got their cheap two jaw puller set. But first order is to heal up. I feel like I did when I was a kid and played a football game.
Offline
I'm guessing that you tried this already, but in case you haven't ...Â
Â
Offline
Propane torch on the hub
Offline
I've used a large two jaw puller on my F250 before, The wheels fortunately have holes. I hooked through two of them to the backside and popped it right off. Then I coated the hub flange and register with anti seize. Never had an issue again. Aluminum wheel on a steel axle. Pretty sure it was dissimilar metal corrosion. I had an aluminum brake drum freeze to an axle on my IROC the same way. I opened the rear and pulled the c-clip, slid the axle out and stood it up on the bench. I soaked it with Kroil overnight and the next day one whack with a deadblow hammer and it came right off. I didn't want to risk damaging the drum because the aluminum ones are NLA.Â
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |