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Today I got all the top and 2nd groove piston ring gaps file-fitted for 0.018” gap. All the rings are now marked as to which hole they go in. Next I need to deburr the filed ends of the rings and clean them to get them ready to go on the pistons. I am glad this detailed, tedious work is done. The diamond blade filer tool really works great.
Next the cam will get installed to be sure it spins freely in the block. Then the crank.
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Today, I got the cam, timing chain and reciprocating assembly installed. Clearances on the Scat crank and rods are spot-on. The 331 ARP rod bolts clear the bottom of the cylinders about 3/16”, so no clearancing was required.
I installed the cam that Bullet donated. 264 roller ground on an original 5.0 billet core. It has reduced base circle so there is a possibility it might not work with my heads milled 0.030” and non-adjustable rockers. Have a stock 5.0 roller cam as backup plan.
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I can tell "by-look'in" the cam is too mild !!!
6sally6
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We gonna need a little more detail on this build.............
6sally6
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Guess I should bring you my block to build.
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MS wrote:
Today, I got the cam, timing chain and reciprocating assembly installed. Clearances on the Scat crank and rods are spot-on. The 331 ARP rod bolts clear the bottom of the cylinders about 3/16”, so no clearancing was required.
I installed the cam that Bullet donated. 264 roller ground on an original 5.0 billet core. It has reduced base circle so there is a possibility it might not work with my heads milled 0.030” and non-adjustable rockers. Have a stock 5.0 roller cam as backup plan.
Did you make sure to install the thick, hardened steel washer under the cam gear retention bolt that also holds on the fuel pump eccentric? (Ask me how I know.....)
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Nice! Is that going in your boat?...
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Ron, I used a new grade 8 bolt and a washer made specific for the purpose. It was even thicker than the stock one.
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Good news on cam and head fitment.
I had the 97 GT40 heads milled 0.030” so they would be same as factory 95 Cobra heads. Bullet’s cam was ground on a stock 5.0 GT roller billet, so to get the higher lift, they ground off the base circle, giving it a reduced base circle.
So, there was concern things might not mstch up maybe requiring custom pushrods, etc.
But, the stars magically all lined up. I got a perfect contact pattern on top of the valve stems. The rocker arm bolts were at correct torque after 1/2 turn past zero latch. I got lucky. It all bolted up just like stock.
So, the long block is all together with valves adjusted. And it is painted black.
The bad news is my new 1965 Cobra aluminum valve covers will not clear the stock 5.0 rocker arms. So, I will use a set of 84 GT Power by Ford aluminum finned valve covers until I get around to adding a custom 1/2” spacer to rhe valve covers like I did to Al’s on his 408.
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This is the spacer I added to Al’s valve covers. Looks like mine will get the same treatment eventually
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I found these spacers in my parts stash and bolted them on to see how they looked. Bullet said they were ugly. It is free to use these, or $175 to get the 1/2” thick billet ones. If I use these, they will get painted gloss black and will be epoxied to the heads.
The 351 oil pan fits well with the billet adapter Bullet Bob machined per my design. Lots of hand filing on the adapter was required to get a good fit since the oil pan casting was a little less than a perfect radius, and Ol’ Bullet doesn’t know how to machine anything that is not perfect.
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Well, maybe not totally ugly with that hi-rise manifold. Butt, (TS&T), are you gonna be able to get to the spark plugs in a '65 with those spacers? Looks like the valve cover is out there a bit.
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I used to have those same spacers on a 351w in my 66. It was harder but not impossible to get to the plugs. I think it will be alot easier with a 5.0 based engine.
I decided years ago that spark plug removal should not be a big concern. The only times I ever changed the plugs in my 66 was when the engine was out of the car, so what is the worry? There is going to be so much more room with the 331 than with the 427.
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Wonder what a shop would charge to split those thick spacers in half. Then you'd have two sets. Since seeing yours at the mini bask in Kansas I've always wanted a set, and you'll have an extra set. My birthday is coming up.
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All I need is a good sized metal-cutting band saw with a tall rip guide.
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Thats a good looking engine I like the black bolts against the alluminum.
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Did the K&N filter fit....It is brand new
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MS wrote:
All I need is a good sized metal-cutting band saw with a tall rip guide.
Metal cutting blade in a table saw would work too. You'd have to run it through and then flip it and run it through again to cut al the way through, and then you would need to dress the cut to make them perfectly flat and smooth (you'd need to do that any way you cut them I think as blades tend to swim).
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We did notice the backwards piston!
Looks good.
Is this for your convertible?
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Did the K&N filter fit....It is brand new
Yes
Just keeping it in a safe location until the engine is ready to fire up in the car
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Yesterday I installed the stainless steel dipstick tube and poured in 8 quarts of oil. I had compared the dipstick tube to a known-good original to be sure the length was right. I am using an original Ford dipstick, though. I primed the HV pump with a 1:2” drill until all rocker arms were flowing oil. Rotated the crank 90 degrees and primed again, three times. That way, all the rod bearings receive oil as well.
Next is to clean up the intake and install it.
Then, I will have to decide on what to do with the valve covers.
Finally got the new spark plugs, and they fit fine.
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Videos of 'new start ups' are always enjoyed by all !
6sally6
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Greg B wrote:
We did notice the backwards piston!
6sal6
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CLASSIC
6s6
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