If I had to do it over again I would probably have gone to a glass shop. My method was to use a piece of 2 x 4 laying flat against the frame and tap against the wood with a hammer. Very tedious, very slow, but it does work. However it is nerve-racking because if you make one little mistake the whole thing will shatter. Make sure you use a lot of light grade oil such as 3M to saturate the joint at the glass and frame overnight.
good luck!

Bob, I've watched the guys do it at a glass shop and a few times myself. Bought the material used that goes between glass and metal brkt. With the glass standing vertical on a piece of carpet, drive on brkt. with mallet, think he used wooden but I used my rubber one. Be sure and liberally use soapy water.
Afterward use razor blade to cut off excess material. I think the material is made in different thicknesses
too.
Howard
 

Last edited by hmartin025 (11/23/2013 9:49 AM)

One thing to consider upon reinstalling the chanel...

The shape of that channel forms the seal between the glass and the weatherstrip channel above the window.  You can vary the degree the strip is installed onto the glass in order to get that seal to mate up properly.  I fought an issue on my fastback for years, all the while wondering how the window EVER sealed at the top and rear corner when it was not anywhere close to the shape of the roofline above it.

It finally dawned on me that the channel had been positioned too low on the glass at the top and that made the upper rear corner move backwards a bit, so that point was too close while the top did not have as much curvature as the roof line.

If your windows fit pretty good now, be sure to make at least a cardboard template of the shape of the stainless trim at the top of the glass.  That way you can compare your new installation with the old one.  If you do not make a template beforehand, the exact shape is gone forever.  Unless you are lucky enough that your trim was bottomed out all along the perimeter of the glass like it should be.