Hmmmmmmmmm...soooo IF I wanted a higher stall out of my converter....I need a single and restrictive exhaust system ?!!

J/K !  That was interesting fer shore.....
6s6

TKOPerformance wrote:

As a kid I remember even guys I considered pretty mechanically inclined who regarded automatics as if they had alien technology in them straight from the Roswell crash site.  I started thinking, there are huge, national chains of transmission shops where guys who definitely don't have black site security clearance rebuilt these things day in and day out.  It can't be that bad.  In the early 2000's I cracked my first one open to do more than install a shift kit.  Decidedly underwhelming.  All the trickery was in the valve body.  The rest was a couple sets of wet clutches like a motorcycle, a couple sets of planetary gears, some pistons, springs, seals, a band like an old go kart brake, and bearings/bushings.  Modern transmissions don't even really have much of a valve body; they rely on solenoids to do the shifting.  They just have more of the other stuff.  I've successfully rebuilt a couple autos with only one special tool I had to buy and one other I made.  Its neat to know how they work, but IMO if you can rebuild an engine you can rebuild an auto. 

I agree. I rebuilt the C4 that I ran in my 68 behind the 351W for about 15 years. I then rebuilt and installed the 4R70W that is behind it today. Luckily I haven't had any problems with either transmission. With the proper rebuild manual, proper rebuild kit, and tools (thanks for the loan of the holding fixture and a couple of special tools Bullet Bob!) it wasn't all that hard to do. Just take your time, keep everything clean and you can do it. Wiring in the electronic control box and throttle position sensor on the carburetor was more challenging that the insides of the gearbox.

I've watched many of the videos from this transmission rebuilder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igNzv9tXpsw

Last edited by KeithP (3/05/2024 7:46 PM)

Yep, the workings of automatic transmissions are still pretty much mystery to me as TKO described in his post.  I just haven't had the opportunity (or maybe brave enough) to take one apart, or rebuild one. 

I go back to the fact that most of the guys who do them for a living probably aren't as sharp as the guys on this forum.  Oh, and there's help here too!

In nearly 40K miles, the AOD has only one problem.  I did not get the...yes, it's really called this...Anti-clunk spring properly installed.  So the center support in the case clunks...sometimes badlly.
Figured it out with the 4R70W and it silent.  Some day, if I decide to part with the AOD, I'll open it up and fix that spring.

BB
 

Bullet Bob wrote:

In nearly 40K miles, the AOD has only one problem.  I did not get the...yes, it's really called this...Anti-clunk spring properly installed.  So the center support in the case clunks...sometimes badlly.
Figured it out with the 4R70W and it silent.  Some day, if I decide to part with the AOD, I'll open it up and fix that spring.

BB
 

I had a time with that anti clunk spring during my rebuild on the  4R70W. The old spring was a coiled steel one that had worn a divot in the housing. The new replacement spring was a flat steel one that could be installed two different ways and I couldn't find a  manual reference stating how to orient it during installation. I called a local, very reputable transmission repair place and asked a tech there and he told me how to install it. No clunking, so I guess it was put in right.
 

Mike,
The "electronic" transmissions, like the 4R70W, are operated by hydraulic pressure butt (TS&T), they are "controlled" by a computer and solenoid valves.  They have a pressure control valve that is electrically controlled to vary the line pressure.  The control program in the electronic controller allows you to increase or decrease shift firmness as desired.  You can also control the shift points, up or down, and lockup RPM.  I have the Bauman "Quick 2" controller which does everything I need without getting too fancy.  Ron 68 stepped up to the Quick 4 controller which allows him to dial in a whole bunch of other parameters...like seat firmness, tire pressure, headlight intensity, and glovebox door latch release pressure.

BB
 

Bullet Bob wrote:

Mike,
The "electronic" transmissions, like the 4R70W, are operated by hydraulic pressure butt (TS&T), they are "controlled" by a computer and solenoid valves.  They have a pressure control valve that is electrically controlled to vary the line pressure.  The control program in the electronic controller allows you to increase or decrease shift firmness as desired.  You can also control the shift points, up or down, and lockup RPM.  I have the Bauman "Quick 2" controller which does everything I need without getting too fancy.  Ron 68 stepped up to the Quick 4 controller which allows him to dial in a whole bunch of other parameters...like seat firmness, tire pressure, headlight intensity, and glovebox door latch release pressure.

BB
 

What can be done to these electronic transmissions with programming is insane.  My '06 Diesel F250 ran a stock Ford reman trans for 180k miles behind an engine making about twice the factory rated power.  No parts were changed; I simply had a program written by a guy who knows what he's doing.  That truck at nearly 8,000lbs ran a 13 flat at 102MPH in the 1/4. 
 

Interesting linkage fer shore !! (multi-adjustable) I would expect NO LESS from you Bullet !
6sal6

6sally6 wrote:

Interesting linkage fer shore !! (multi-adjustable) I would expect NO LESS from you Bullet !
6sal6

Mike - that is my linkage setup on my 68 - I screwed up my posting making it look like BB's. I call it my Frankenstang linkage. I cobbed together a few shift  parts from different models and - it works.