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Hi everyone we just took the 65 on its first trip to Vegas every thing was great been driving all day across desert at 73 mph it’s 88 out and we get into town and had to stop suddenly due to an accident. Suddenly I’m watching my temp at 212 and my volts at at 12 I turned off everything and would see 12.3-15.5 if I increased over idle I could get 13.1. I took next exit so as to not get stuck. We never went below 12 volts. After about 10 minutes on side streets temp started to come down some and volts started going back up. Last night car showed no signs of ever having a problem. I am going to check under hood this morning. Really not sure what happened other than stopping quickly in the heat with everything running at full temp
Any ideas
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I would posit that the temperature reading was erroneous and caused by low alternator output (or possibly real if you have an electric fan). I would check charging voltage, which should ideally be about 14-14.4 volts (assuming a modern alternator). Remember a car battery is really a 12.6 volt battery, even though we refer to it as a 12 volt system, so at 12 volts its still not actually charging. 15+ volts is also bad. You can fry stuff at those kinds of voltages. My bet would be the voltage regulator in the alternator is going bad. I just had this happen in my truck. It was throwing over 17 volts! Fortunately the PCM shut everything which could be damaged off.
Another thing worth considering is grounding. If you have a loose, corroded, etc. ground it could cause erroneous readings of both the temperature gauge and voltmeter.
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Sorry I had a typo it was 13. Not 15. Charge volts are 14.5 then smooths out and stays at 13.5/6
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Sorry I had a typo it was 13. Not 15. Charge volts are 14.5 then smooths out and stays at 13.5/6
Temp is with a VDO gauge and the one on the Sniper never saw 215 and yes 16” electric fan was cranked I’m sure
Odd that all went back to normal afterwords I found no loose wires
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Are you running the original CTS supplied by Holley? The Holley supplied units will often under-report temperatures when hot. Are you using Sniper timing control? And, what alternator are you running?
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GPatrick wrote:
Are you running the original CTS supplied by Holley? The Holley supplied units will often under-report temperatures when hot. Are you using Sniper timing control? And, what alternator are you running?
Sniper 1 and a new not rebuilt 3G temperature reads the same as the Autometer that is also in the top of the intake. Sniper temp is on top left side and Ameter is just before outlet factory temp is it housing after T stat and it reads straight down so I think all 3 are reading correct
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And your ignition setup? Contact me in a message and you can send your configuration file to me via email.
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Consider 13 volts is just barely charging. Even 13.5/13.6 isn't great. A 3G should put out 14-14.4 easily. Of course the question may also be how's it wired? Is it setup as a one wire, or does it have actual voltage feedback from the tail end of the electrical system so it knows how much to charge?
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I'm having trouble with the 64k limit on this site, so I parked a .pdf that is a typical 3G wire diagram on Google Drive. It is here:
Now, my question is to TKO Performance. Above you asked: "Is it setup as one wire, or does it have actual voltage feedback from the tail end of the electrical system so it knows how much to charge?"
In the diagram (assuming it is correct), it must be measuring the voltage at either "A" or "I" or comparing the two? Could you elaborate a bit please? I'm really curious if this is correct and how it handles feedback. Thanks
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I would have battery load tested.
Appears the alternator is charging, however the battery is not maintaining the charge.
Have you tried it with the sound system disconnected?
Some amplifiers have cheap capacitors that may constantly discharge your battery even when off.
I would check for current draw at battery terminal with ignition off and see what ya find.
Are you getting full voltage at fuse block and accessory block (if applicable)?
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Mach1Driver wrote:
I'm having trouble with the 64k limit on this site, so I parked a .pdf that is a typical 3G wire diagram on Google Drive. It is here:
, and titled 65-66 3G.pdf.
Now, my question is to TKO Performance. Above you asked: "Is it setup as one wire, or does it have actual voltage feedback from the tail end of the electrical system so it knows how much to charge?"
In the diagram (assuming it is correct), it must be measuring the voltage at either "A" or "I" or comparing the two? Could you elaborate a bit please? I'm really curious if this is correct and how it handles feedback. Thanks
It's the "A" terminal. When they do these as a 1 wire they loop the "A" terminal to the charging post, basically reading only the alternator's output and using that as the reference for the voltage regulator. This is probably fine for a vehicle that has a very, very basic electrical system. 1 wire alternators were originally designed for street rods. When you add a bunch of electrical stuff to a classic like power windows, a decent stereo with amps, electric fan, etc. it changes what the alternator needs to see to charge as best as possible. In a simple system using the charging post directly is fine, because its likely so close to the voltage everywhere in the system as to make no difference. The proper way to wire it in a more complex system is to read voltage downstream from the alternator. Often this is done by running a wire from the "A' terminal to the "BATT" terminal on the starter solenoid, which is where a lot of accessories are often tied, so you are reading voltage where the load exists, instead of at the alternator's charging post where there is no load. There are other more involved ways to do it, but mine runs to the solenoid.
The "I" terminal is the exciting wire. Its a keyed 12V, which runs through the ammeter/warning light in the factory system, but the source is the ignition switch. I run an aftermarket voltmeter, so my "I" terminal is just wired to a keyed 12V source in the engine bay and my voltmeter reads off another keyed 12V source inside the car.
I don't believe the voltage regulator compares the voltages from the "I" and " A" terminals. Pretty sure the "I" wire turns it on and the "A" wire tells it what to do output wise. Then the regulator in essence turns the charging on and off as needed to maintain proper voltage. That happens a bunch of times a second, so its unnoticable.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Mach1Driver wrote:
I'm having trouble with the 64k limit on this site, so I parked a .pdf that is a typical 3G wire diagram on Google Drive. It is here:
, and titled 65-66 3G.pdf.
Now, my question is to TKO Performance. Above you asked: "Is it setup as one wire, or does it have actual voltage feedback from the tail end of the electrical system so it knows how much to charge?"
In the diagram (assuming it is correct), it must be measuring the voltage at either "A" or "I" or comparing the two? Could you elaborate a bit please? I'm really curious if this is correct and how it handles feedback. Thanks
It's the "A" terminal. When they do these as a 1 wire they loop the "A" terminal to the charging post, basically reading only the alternator's output and using that as the reference for the voltage regulator. This is probably fine for a vehicle that has a very, very basic electrical system. 1 wire alternators were originally designed for street rods. When you add a bunch of electrical stuff to a classic like power windows, a decent stereo with amps, electric fan, etc. it changes what the alternator needs to see to charge as best as possible. In a simple system using the charging post directly is fine, because its likely so close to the voltage everywhere in the system as to make no difference. The proper way to wire it in a more complex system is to read voltage downstream from the alternator. Often this is done by running a wire from the "A' terminal to the "BATT" terminal on the starter solenoid, which is where a lot of accessories are often tied, so you are reading voltage where the load exists, instead of at the alternator's charging post where there is no load. There are other more involved ways to do it, but mine runs to the solenoid.
The "I" terminal is the exciting wire. Its a keyed 12V, which runs through the ammeter/warning light in the factory system, but the source is the ignition switch. I run an aftermarket voltmeter, so my "I" terminal is just wired to a keyed 12V source in the engine bay and my voltmeter reads off another keyed 12V source inside the car.
I don't believe the voltage regulator compares the voltages from the "I" and " A" terminals. Pretty sure the "I" wire turns it on and the "A" wire tells it what to do output wise. Then the regulator in essence turns the charging on and off as needed to maintain proper voltage. That happens a bunch of times a second, so its unnoticable.
Thanks, that's a clear and concise response.
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Thanks, unfortunately its all about one wire alternators, not 3G. The 3Gs seem to be preferred for our cars as the output has fewer voltage spikes and dips. That is particularly helpful for EFI and other electronics, where one wire alternators can lead to trouble.
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