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I got this cool device from Summit Racing. It wires into the car with a 12 volt switched, a ground, spliced into the fuel sender wire so it has a wire to the sender and a wire to the gauge. I mounted the unit under my console and cut into the sender wire in the driver door sill.
It allows you to set four levels on your gauge. I set E, 1/4 tank, 1/2 tank and Full on my Autometer gauge. It was frustrating originally because when my gauge was reading 1/4 tank, I still had about ten gallons in the tank.
The device is easy to program.
I started with an empty tank.
I added two gallons and set the empty reading on the gauge with the needle just to the right of the E position. You use an UP and a DOWN button to get the gauge needle pointing where you want it. Once reading where you want, you push a save button. There is a rotary dial that you turn to a given number for each setting. 1 on the dial was for Empty setting.
Inthen added the appropriate amount of gas so I had exactly 1/4 tank. Then I adjusted the gauge reading to 1/4 tank and hit save.
Then I added enough gas so I knew I had 1/2 tank and then set the needle to point to 1/2 tank and saved that.
Then I filled the tank and adjusted the needle to read full. Saved that reading.
Now I know when I have exactly 1/2 a tank, 1/4 of a tank, and when I have two gallons left.
This gizmo is very accurate and can match your sender to any gauge, even if it has totally different ohm requirements.
So, for the first time EVER, I have a gauge that reads correctly.
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This device can also be used on any other gauge that works with a variable resistance grounding sensor, like Temperature or Oil Pressure.
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MS - thanks for the infomation.
I bought one a few months back but haven't installed it yet.
Where did you locate the MeterMatch in your car?
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Thanks for the info. This will be my winter project. At 1/4 tank mine is empty. So I through about pulling the sending unit out and bend the float a bit. This seems a lot easier. I do have Dakota Digital gauges.
Steve69
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Pretty slick device, $89 is worth the peace of mind of knowing how much gas you really have.
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BobE wrote:
MS - thanks for the infomation.
I bought one a few months back but haven't installed it yet.
Where did you locate the MeterMatch in your car?
I mounted it under the console rear ash tray, but I made a 24” wiring extension so I could hold it up where I could see it while programming the gauge. The wires coil up under the console.
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MS wrote:
BobE wrote:
MS - thanks for the infomation.
I bought one a few months back but haven't installed it yet.
Where did you locate the MeterMatch in your car?I mounted it under the console rear ash tray, but I made a 24” wiring extension so I could hold it up where I could see it while programming the gauge. The wires coil up under the console.
Good idea, thank you. Mounting behind, or under, the dash would be fighting for space and make it tough to adjust if/when necessary. I had thought about installing in the trunk, but the console may be a better location.
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MS wrote:
I got this cool device from Summit Racing. It wires into the car with a 12 volt switched, a ground, spliced into the fuel sender wire so it has a wire to the sender and a wire to the gauge. I mounted the unit under my console and cut into the sender wire in the driver door sill.
It allows you to set four levels on your gauge. I set E, 1/4 tank, 1/2 tank and Full on my Autometer gauge. It was frustrating originally because when my gauge was reading 1/4 tank, I still had about ten gallons in the tank.
The device is easy to program.
I started with an empty tank.
I added two gallons and set the empty reading on the gauge with the needle just to the right of the E position. You use an UP and a DOWN button to get the gauge needle pointing where you want it. Once reading where you want, you push a save button. There is a rotary dial that you turn to a given number for each setting. 1 on the dial was for Empty setting.
Inthen added the appropriate amount of gas so I had exactly 1/4 tank. Then I adjusted the gauge reading to 1/4 tank and hit save.
Then I added enough gas so I knew I had 1/2 tank and then set the needle to point to 1/2 tank and saved that.
Then I filled the tank and adjusted the needle to read full. Saved that reading.
Now I know when I have exactly 1/2 a tank, 1/4 of a tank, and when I have two gallons left.
This gizmo is very accurate and can match your sender to any gauge, even if it has totally different ohm requirements.
So, for the first time EVER, I have a gauge that reads correctly.
How did you figure out what wire was going to the tank from your door sill wiring?
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Same color as the wire from the sender that goes through the trunk area.
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MS wrote:
Same color as the wire from the sender that goes through the trunk area.
Ok Thanks!
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Meter match revisited. After almost 200 miles, the gauge has not dropped from just above FULL. Man, the new Holley must be getting great mileage!!!
Still waiting to see gauge move😫
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MS wrote:
Meter match revisited. After almost 200 miles, the gauge has not dropped from just above FULL. Man, the new Holley must be getting great mileage!!!
Still waiting to see gauge move😫
Dang, that sounded like a cool fix. Expensive but cool. Maybe it only moves the gauge when the next lower set point is crossed.
My method isn't linear, it just moves the gauge as the fuel drops and is dependent on the linearity of the sender, Butt (TS&T), it can be adjusted to tell you when the tank is at 2, 3, 5, or whatever you dial in gallons when it indicates "E". Oh, and it costs about $2.00.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
MS wrote:
Meter match revisited. After almost 200 miles, the gauge has not dropped from just above FULL. Man, the new Holley must be getting great mileage!!!
Still waiting to see gauge move😫Dang, that sounded like a cool fix. Expensive but cool. Maybe it only moves the gauge when the next lower set point is crossed.
My method isn't linear, it just moves the gauge as the fuel drops and is dependent on the linearity of the sender, Butt (TS&T), it can be adjusted to tell you when the tank is at 2, 3, 5, or whatever you dial in gallons when it indicates "E". Oh, and it costs about $2.00.
Yep. On mine with your design it rarely pegs full, butt it is dead nuts on at the other end, which matters most. And it's never run out on me.
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MS wrote:
Meter match revisited. After almost 200 miles, the gauge has not dropped from just above FULL. Man, the new Holley must be getting great mileage!!!
Still waiting to see gauge move😫
so did you ever get it to working ?
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The one in my 69 works great. The one in the 66 still reads full after 200 miles, so I need to check it. Not the way it is supposed to read.
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MS wrote:
The one in my 69 works great. The one in the 66 still reads full after 200 miles, so I need to check it. Not the way it is supposed to read.
Possibly the tank float is stuck at the max position (?). You might try to slightly bang on the tank sending unit to see if it can be freed up.
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I fiddled with the splice under the sill plate and it started working again. I swear there is no way there was anything wrong with the two solder joints that were securely and heavily taped. (To be sure they did not short out as the wires passed over the pinchweld under the sill)
One thrash item can now hopefully be marked off the list.
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MS wrote:
I fiddled with the splice under the sill plate and it started working again. I swear there is no way there was anything wrong with the two solder joints that were securely and heavily taped. (To be sure they did not short out as the wires passed over the pinchweld under the sill)
One thrash item can now hopefully be marked off the list.
AWESOME dose this work with a factory gauge or would I need to get a different gauge? I am doing the 22 gallon conversion it was the kit with the proper fuel sender and float. Mine has the 65 gauges
Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (9/12/2024 4:05 PM)
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I used BB's mod to add a small DC adjustable voltage regulator to the wiring going to the gauge. I also used his template to bend the float arm and the pickup tube so that I could add a short rubber hose to the pickup that attached to a much bigger and flat inlet screen in the tank. The arm was bent and the gauge needle was calibrated with the voltage regulator to read on the line next to the "E" when I have exactly two gallons left in the tank. That is really all I need to know for sure.
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MS, I put a new Speed Hut fuel gauge in my 65. It is programmable to fit any application. the programming process consists of a button that you push when the tank is empty then you fill the tank and push the button again and PRESTO it calibrates to your sending unit. Works great till it quits working great!! I need to recalibrate it but there always seems to be something else to do!!
Last edited by terry (9/13/2024 6:01 AM)
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Ron68 wrote:
I used BB's mod to add a small DC adjustable voltage regulator to the wiring going to the gauge. I also used his template to bend the float arm and the pickup tube so that I could add a short rubber hose to the pickup that attached to a much bigger and flat inlet screen in the tank. The arm was bent and the gauge needle was calibrated with the voltage regulator to read on the line next to the "E" when I have exactly two gallons left in the tank. That is really all I need to know for sure.
BB sent me that too. Ill have to look in my stack of Mustang information and take a look at that too.
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I, too, was always in agreement with the statement of “all I need to know is where EMPTY REALLY IS” until I started taking the car on long road trips. It will be nice to know how much gas is really in the tank at any given point while crossing the middle of west Texas or Arizona where gas stations are scarce.
Cars mostly used for local stuff… yeah…. As long as I get 20 miles warning, it is fine.
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A very nice addition.
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As Billie asked ; will this work with stock fuel gauge?
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687072mustang wrote:
As Billie asked ; will this work with stock fuel gauge?
Yes, it will work with the stock OEM fuel gauge.
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