I like McLeod.

I had a Centerforce Dual Friction in my 95 Z71 (350, 5 spd, 4x4, 3.42 LSD).

I used it for hauling wood in the bed and fully loaded 5x8 trailer for at least 5 years and 6 full cords per year.

Travels included many hills with full loads.

I had one problem.  In the rust belt environment of the U.P., a couple of the weights got stuck affecting clutch operation in winter…of course.

Besides that, never had a problem slipping.

Clutch pedal force was similar to stock clutch.

My advice would be call these guys:

https://www.promotionpowertrain.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoqnlV8RC1i928mKjzANcNHaEh_yKRAuc7XMZ_s3tzIEgimgs8Y0

They will mach a great clutch to what you are doing at a great price.
 

6sally6 wrote:

I went to NAPA years ago and bought mine. Don't think it was a "name-brand" either. Just their brand of stock replacement diaphram clutch. ZERO problems !!! (don't over-think it...most of the times the rear tires slip waaaay before the clutch will.)
Diaphram design is the best for leg/foot pressure.
6s6

Depending on when you bought it NAPA clutches used to be made by LUK, which has generally good reviews across vehicle types.  I don't know if they still are made by LUK, but generally NAPA stuff is made by a decent quality manufacturer.  Their chassis stuff for example is Mevotech, which is all I've used for chassis parts for the last several years. 
 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (12/10/2024 2:44 PM)

If your clutch went out too quickly, I'd be very careful with the adjustment of the new clutch.  It is likely that a clutch is dragging if it wears out prematurely.  This can either be an adjustment issue or an operator issue.

rpm wrote:

I had break-in instructions with McLeod.

Whether directed to or not I've always observed a 500 mile break in period with any new clutch.  500 miles of easy driving.  No hard launches, no bang shifts, etc.  I figure its just good insurance.  Changing a clutch is a PITA, and if you've ever done it on something FWD, AWD, or 4WD its even more so.  I want that clutch to live as long as possible. 

Rufus68 wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

rpm wrote:

I had break-in instructions with McLeod.

Whether directed to or not I've always observed a 500 mile break in period with any new clutch.  500 miles of easy driving.  No hard launches, no bang shifts, etc.  I figure its just good insurance.  Changing a clutch is a PITA, and if you've ever done it on something FWD, AWD, or 4WD its even more so.  I want that clutch to live as long as possible. 

This is spot on.  This also applies to new brakes.  Brake pads/shoes and rotors/drums are similar to clutch discs and pressure plate/flywheel.  Whenever new, allow them to seat in before attempting to expect the full surface to make contact and provide the full functionality.

On brakes I will typically do the following:

5 light effort stops from 50mph separated by 5 minutes cool down between stops.

5 medium effort stops from 50mph separated by 5 minutes cooling between stops

5 high effort stops from 50mph separated by 5 minutes cooling between stops.

When cooling the goal is not to use the brakes at all or as little as possible (having a stick shift really comes in handy here).  Between evolutions obviously you also want 5 minutes for cooling, as well as after you are done.  I just jump on the back roads by where I live and pull over as needed.  This produces pads that grip very. very well hot or cold and they last longer too.  Off topic, but I also only use carbon metallic pads anymore.  Bendix makes very good pads at a reasonable price.  They produce more brake dust than ceramic pads, but they work much better.  I'll trade having to periodically clean my rims for better stopping.