Mikes Carburetor parts has a 4300 rebuild kit. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/4300-rebuildkit-k7161 Note there are slight differences otf the 4300 carbs between the years so not all of the parts in Mikes rebuild kit will be used.
I highly recommend that you also install Mike's Motorcraft 4300 Secondary plug 75-45 during the rebuild
Here are my notes on rebuilding a 4300 C7DF AH on my 67 Cougar.
Autolite 4300
1. remove air cleaner wingnut
2. disconnect oil tube at front of air cleaner and large hose at the rear of the air cleaner to the thermactor valve
3. disconnect hot air choke tube - 1/2" and 9/16" wrench
4. remove fuel line - pliers
5. remove the 3 vacuum tubes, one at front of carb going to distributor vacuum advance, PCV line at carb adapter base, and air tube at top rear of carb
6. disconnect throttle linkage at the carb
7. remove the 4 nuts at the carb base. 7/16 " socket with extension and the driver front nut with a 7/16 wrench
8. carefully lift the carb straight off the carb adapter plate as the carb will be full of gas. Don't dump the gas just yet, we will use it to judge where the fuel bowl currently sit.
9. place 4 bolts with nuts on the base of the carb to use as a carb stand Place the manifold nuts on the top side of the bolts
10. disconnect the accelerator pump arm linkage and remove the accelerator pump e-clip. I turned the clip so that the open tangs of the clip are facing up. Next use a blunt flat blade screwdriver ( mine was a screw driver that I broke the blade on so it is to thick to fit on a screw) and push down on the clip to disengage the clip from the rod. I tried putting a locking forceps on the back of the clip, sometimes it worked and other times it didn't.
11. On the choke side, remove the e-clip at the choke plate and the e-clip at the choke rod connector. Rotate the choke up to get at the bottom e-clip
12. remove the air horn choke seal and remove the choke rod
13. remove the air cleaner stud - 3/8" wrench
14. loosen the 11 bolts on the top of the carb - 10 phillips and 1 regular. Note the regular screw is longer than the rest and goes on the driver rear hole. A magnetic screwdriver made this easy especially during reassembly
15. Carefully pull up the air horn
16. Inspect the air horn, main body and throttle body and make sure that neither piece is warped.
The specs for the float are 25/32 however have noticed that this setting causes the secondaries to flood.I did the following to my carb:
1. remove the auxiliary valve on the carb and either block it off or cut the pin lower so that the float can not open the auxillary valve. Mike's Carburetor Parts has a plug for this but at $12.95 I took a dremel to my old auxiliary valve and cut the pin short enough where the float would not open the aux valve at all.
2. I made a float tool to measure the float height. The float tool rocks a little bit as it only fits into two holes.
2. Set the float for the primary valve to 28/32. Note the float tips to either side slightly, Set the floats so that the shortest side is at the proper setting. Pony carbs set their floats to 1 1/4" however the float bowl depth is only 1 1/2". I tries setting my float in the middle to 1 1/8" this did not leak, but I worry about leaning out with the secondaries. I am now trying the floats set to 29/32
When reassembling the carb, do the following:
1. place the float pin with the head on the same side as the accelerator pump
2. Place the accelerator pump in the air horn and place the pivot arm in to hold the pump in place
3. Place the air damper rod into the flapper and tape it into position, Beats the hell out of me why this is not clipped or pinned into place!!
4. place the gasket onto the airhorn
5. Lower the airhorn onto the body and carefully watch to make sure everything aligns properly. Especially the air dampner, floats and the accelerator pump
6. The air horn should drop on top the body. if it doesn't seat all the way, jiggle the air horn to get it to seat, DO NOT force it!!!
7. Blow into the fuel inlet to make sure that the float doesn't bind on anything.
8. Remember we placed the float pin on the side of the accelerator pump. After assembling the carb, only rotate the carb so that the accelerator pump is up! Rotate the carb upside down and blow itno the fuel inlet, the fuel valve should be seated and you shouldn't be able to blow air this way.
9. Rotate carb back to level and repeat #1
10. The choke side needs the secondary lockout positioned correctly as well as the choke shaft. The damn choke shaft will fit 180 degrees out so make sure it is installed correctly,
11. Place a felpro 1901 4 hole gasket on the intake manifold then the carb spacer, next a felpro 60046 4 hole gasket and then the carb. Note the Mr. Gasket #55 is not quite wide enough to seal the spacer oddly enough if you turn the gasket 90, it fits the body on all four edges BUT the mounting ears do not extend to the studs!! If Mr Gasket changed this, you could use 2 #55's with no issues. Edelbrock makes a plate (Edelbrock carburetor adapters 2732) that would get rid of the seal issue but it would also raise the carb, probably would need to then change the carb studs. Also the Edelbrock plate is an open spacer thus defeating a 4 hole low end torque design. Felpro makes the lower gasket that seals properly as the other gasket from carb body to spacer. Felpro 1901 and 60046
the 1901 is thicker than the 60046 and both cover the egr passages!!! You could use the 1901 on the top if need be
12. After installing the carb, I used a ketchup bottle quarter the way filled with gasoline and squirt the gasoline down one of the two carb vents. This passage goes directly to the fuel bowl. Do not overfill this or you will flood the carb.
13. Next disconnect the I wire at the starter solenoid.
14. Turn the engine over for 5 seconds, to finish priming the bowl. Also, check for any fuel leaks at this time. If there are any leaks, fix them before trying to start the engine.
15. Reinstall the I wire on the starter solenoid.
16. Start the engine.
17. Check for any fuel leaks. If there are no leaks and the car starts, check for any vacuum leaks around the carb by spraying carb cleaner with a straw at the base. If there are no leaks, place your hands around the air horn to try and see if you can choke the carb out, if it starts to die quickly remove your hands and let it pop.
18. Hook up a vacuum gauge to the carb and monitor the vacuum. My stock 289 4v produced 19" HG Vacuum at idle
Good luck. Let me know if you have any other questions
Coach Jack
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