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Does anyone know how to bench test new brake lines for leakage to ensure that the double flares are being done right?
I would hate to make all my brake lines and come to find out that I made bad flares.
Thanks
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If the flares look concentric with the tubing and you did not overtighten the second step of the process, they will be fine. Otherwise, hook them up to a master cylinder, bleed the line and cap the far end. Pump the mc and see what happens. A waste of time and brake fluid, IMHO.
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Since I use the MS method and do not over flair the double flair and let the actual torquing of the tuboe onto the actual fitting in place do the final setting of the flair so it mates perfectly with the fitting is to be used on, I never have a leak. I do make sure the flair is even (I understand this word) when I take it off of the flair tool. If any part of the flair is uneven or off set, I do it over. As with most things, preparation is everything. The cut must be square and properly deburred. A little attention to detail and it is easy. The hardest part should be remembering to put the proper flair nut/fitting on in the correct direction!
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I did have a leak on one of my front lines after I had put it in. I was able to cut it off an flare it on the car. Just unbolted the holder and pulled it away from the car enough to work on.
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I used a sharp 3/16" drill bit to deburr the tubing ID. Then make sure the end cut is square.
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MustangSteve wrote:
I used a sharp 3/16" drill bit to deburr the tubing ID. Then make sure the end cut is square.
And...don't forget to use a little air pressure to blow the chips out of the line.
BB
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ditto!
square cut, deburr, concentric flair
and...DO NOT over tighten when you are rolling over the flair. Let torquing the fitting set the flair on assembly.
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Thanks everyone.
Dont overtighten the last flair, deburr real good, end cut is square and patience.
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