Steve, I have Electric Life in my 68.
The quarter panel mechanism seems to be unique to early Mustangs,I doubt if newer units can be used but I never looked into that. Space is really at a premium back there.
Usually when raising the top I just crack down all four windows if they are already up. I don’t think it matters when lowering the top, I done it both ways.
One thing I did was wire both rears to operate in unison with one switch, couldn’t understand why anyone would want them working individually . All my window switches are in the Center console so the passenger has access to them and, always hot so the ignition switch doesn’t need to be on for window operation.

50vert wrote:

https://www.electric-life.com/
https://www.nu-relics.com/

 

$1900 for four electric windows? Plus tax and shipping? I think I'll just roll them up and down by hand. 
 

Rudi wrote:

Ron68 wrote:

50vert wrote:

https://www.electric-life.com/
https://www.nu-relics.com/

 

$1900 for four electric windows? Plus tax and shipping? I think I'll just roll them up and down by hand. 
 

 
When I bought mine they were less than $500, same as the AAW kit. Prices these days are insane, I’d think long and hard about doing the many mods that I did not all that long ago.
Covid seemed to give every place that sells anything a Cart Blanche to virtually double their charges to h.
It’s just corporate greed, so the price increases trickle ( more of a flood) down the line.

 
BINGO!

Thank you Rudy for reply and links. Electric life only lists front windows. I don't know if I want to pop a $1000. for power windows -- that would buy a lot of pizza. I had though about connection the two rear windows like you did Rudy. srj

Money you enjoy wasting is not wasted money.

I doubt I would do it on a coupe where the rear windows are rarely lowered, but in a convertible you have to be a contortionist to reach the rear window cranks, or you have to get out of the car and walk around the car to roll up/down the quarter windows.
At 70, I just don’t need the struggle of manually operating those rear windows, or the passenger front window, for that matter.  So, that will be one of two devices I install. 
The second will be power remote locks, which are cheap and easy on a 65-66, and it takes away the requirement to use a key to lock the doors when leaving the car.  Power locks can be done for under $100. The ebay $20 remote control setup works great.  Mine has been on for over 20 years. I even installed a kit on Jose’s Blazer when his factory remote stuff quit.
On my 66, I used 77 Cordoba lock motors, which are virtually identical to foxbody lock motors.  (And amazingly still working since 1977)  Brackets are simple to fabricate.
Only challenge is period correct switches for inside the car.

In the 66



This picture is a good contrast showing how a good quality installation can be done (window and lock switches) vs a crappy, drug induced pushbutton installation can be done (gate and garage door opener buttons hastily mounted to the side of the console).
The side buttons will be temoved the next time that console gets unbolted. They look so amateur!

Question for Rudi or anyone else. Where did you place the receiver for key fob signal? 

Steve, I have Nu-Relics all the way around the Heap since 2015.  Working just fine.  I used the stock looking lever switches....like 'em.

Ron68 wrote:

50vert wrote:

https://www.electric-life.com/
https://www.nu-relics.com/

 

$1900 for four electric windows? Plus tax and shipping? I think I'll just roll them up and down by hand. 
 

OUCH !!!.........Almost as obscene as serpentine belt prices !!!!!!! Priced those lately ?!
6s6
 

Bolted to Floor wrote:

I have the Nu-relics in the coupe front and back. I upgraded because I lost the passenger side regulator. Not sure that I would do it again. The manual windows were working good with fresh rollers and grease. 

Now for the electric door locks. Do you really need a button on the inside to pop the doors? How hard of a reach is it to get to the other side and pull it up with, especially if you have the factory style door lock knobs? 

 
To unlock the door locks from inside the car I put a momentary contact button switch just under the ash tray of my 68.
Back when I installed it I could reach the pass door from the drivers seat, these days , not so much, so I’m I spent the few bucks for a piece of wire and a switch.