Make the holes bigger where the shaded areas are. If you have the booster, make a template when you finish your Wheaties box tomorrow.

TKOPerformance wrote:

IIRC there are captured nuts in the pedal support into which the bolts for the manual master cylinder thread that need to be removed for the power booster (which has studs which get nuts on the inside of the car).  

 
Right. Stick a 2” long 3/8” bolt threaded into the swedged inserts from the engine side of the firewall and percussion engineer the bolt head. It will drive the inserts out of the pedal support and no hole enlargement is then needed. DO NOT remove the one on upper driver side. It will get a bolt threaded in.
Also note:  Some 67 pedal supports do not have the two 3/8” holes wt the top where the pedal bolts in. If yours is one of those, you must remove the pedal support to drill it. 
Pretty sure I have a brand new 67-68 pedal support if you need one.

My pedal support was already drilled for the bolt for the power pedal location, and my car is an early '67 based on several other things I've noticed over the years.

That said, I really, REALLY wish there had been instructions with the SSBC front power disc conversion kit I put on the car when I was 17 or 18 that told you that you needed a new pedal (or, maybe that should have been I don't know, INCLUDED IN THE @#$%ING KIT).  I got everything together and couldn't understand why the pushrod was too far from the pedal.  Being young and foolish I cobbled together a pushrod extension, which actually worked.  Well, it worked until it bent from repeated use and I lost brakes, which fortunately happened when I was only about 1.5 miles from home, and I managed to get the car home without damage.  I finally figured out that the power brake cars used a different pedal, got the right one installed, and all was well.  People working on these cars today just don't understand how good they have it with sites like this.  Back then, unless you knew someone who was a early Mustang guru, you were kind of on your own, or at the mercy of calling people who may or may not really know what they were talking about, and even then its like trying to give someone a haircut over the phone most of the time.  

Jieve wrote:

rpm wrote:

This one?

Yes, thank you! That one's a little more legible.

MS wrote:

Right. Stick a 2” long 3/8” bolt threaded into the swedged inserts from the engine side of the firewall and percussion engineer the bolt head. It will drive the inserts out of the pedal support and no hole enlargement is then needed. DO NOT remove the one on upper driver side. It will get a bolt threaded in.
Also note:  Some 67 pedal supports do not have the two 3/8” holes wt the top where the pedal bolts in. If yours is one of those, you must remove the pedal support to drill it. 
Pretty sure I have a brand new 67-68 pedal support if you need one.

Got it. As with TKO's car, my stock pedal support already had the power brake pedal hole drilled from the factory. Good to know about the nut removal. 

Ron68 wrote:

One thing that he also needs to do is make sure to install a power brake style brake lights switch with the weaker spring. I didn't do that at first and almost got rear ended because the brakes came on before the tail lights did.

Since I'm converting my '67 spear-column to a '68 (found a good deal on a full '68 column on ebay), I went with the '68 power brake pedal (5" pin distance) to clear the upgraded column, does this still require a different brake switch than the stock '67 switch with manual brakes? I haven't taken a deeper look at it yet.

TKOPerformance wrote:

That said, I really, REALLY wish there had been instructions with the SSBC front power disc conversion kit I put on the car when I was 17 or 18 that told you that you needed a new pedal (or, maybe that should have been I don't know, INCLUDED IN THE @#$%ING KIT).  I got everything together and couldn't understand why the pushrod was too far from the pedal.  Being young and foolish I cobbled together a pushrod extension, which actually worked.  Well, it worked until it bent from repeated use and I lost brakes, which fortunately happened when I was only about 1.5 miles from home, and I managed to get the car home without damage.  I finally figured out that the power brake cars used a different pedal, got the right one installed, and all was well.  People working on these cars today just don't understand how good they have it with sites like this.  Back then, unless you knew someone who was a early Mustang guru, you were kind of on your own, or at the mercy of calling people who may or may not really know what they were talking about, and even then its like trying to give someone a haircut over the phone most of the time.

Tell me about it. I remember when I got my first car, I had AOL dialup back then (I'm probably young compared to many here) but managed to find an email list that was similar to more modern forums, you'd get an email a couple times a day with all the latest questions and responses, and could pitch in by sending an email. Also spent a lot of free time reading Haynes manuals. ;) This board is a great resource! 
 

Yes, you will need a power brake switch when you swap over. The manual one won't work.