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IIRC there a bunch of stuff you need to do to get it to work right and keep your engine alive.  It might be easier to just sell that carb and get a blower carb.  Blower carbs use different power valves because they have to be boost referenced.  The shaft seals are also usually different to they don't blow out under boost and cause a vacuum leak when its not on boost.  You want a 50cc accelerator pump to prevent a lean bog when it first comes on boost.  Set the floats a little lower than normal so it doesn't flood when you first tip into the throttle.  Jet it fatter than you think you need and work down slowly.  Pressure makes heat, so do lean fuel mixtures, and heat melts pistons.  

I would call Quick Fuel and talk to their tech line.  You've got too much money tied up in the engine to risk melting it down with internet advice.  I'm going off what I remember from building boat motors 30 years ago.  

Unfortunately its not that simple, because the carb sits atop something that will have positive pressure in it, and an out of the box NA carb isn't designed for that; its designed to have vacuum below it.  This is what necessitates the changes.  If you put the right power valve in it for WOT it'll be pig rich everywhere else. That's why you need a boost referenced power valve.  Its like a rising rate FPR in a fuel injected application.  Then you have to account for the near instant creation of boost you get with a roots blower, so that's why the bigger accelerator pump, etc.  Turbos and centrifugal blowers simply don't build boost like that.  

Carb sizing it trickier than an NA engine, because you have to account for how much "bigger" the engine gets under boost.  Think about it this way: if a 302 cubic inch engine needs a 600cfm carb based on intended RPM range, etc. and you put 7.5 psi of positive pressure into it for all intents and purposes it is now a 453 cubic inch engine and needs considerably more carb.  Carb sizing for an NA engine is based on atmospheric pressure only which is 14.7psi at sea level, so when you increase that pressure the carb requirement increases by the proportion you've increased the manifold pressure relative to atmospheric pressure.  This is also why you often see multiple carbs on blower setups, because the difference between idle fueling and WOT fueling is massive.  Two carbs allow for a better idle while still supplying enough fuel up top.  Most roots blowers as delivered are set up to produce 6-10psi, though you can monkey with pulley ratios to get more or less.  

Blow through is a whole other animal.  You're best off putting the carb in a pressurized box at that point.  

Back in the day, before everything had an LS something in it the hot setup for off shore boats was a pair of BBCs with blowers.  454s, or 502s (this was before stokers and tall deck engines were common and everyone went to 540s and 632s).  A pair of 468s (0.060" over 454) with 8:1 compression and 6-71s would get a 30ish footer upwards of 110MPH if you had the right props while still running 93 octane.