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Scott Williams posted this on FB. I don't normally go there unless it's Marketplace. Got a link from a friend, so I looked. Wow. He built a fairly high dollar stock block 410W. I built just about the opposite. But that was back in 2000 and $5k then is the equivalent of about $9k now. (Ouch.) What's a reasonable stroker build to you? I have a spare .040" 351W block and a $500 (Marketplace) Scat forged steel 4" stroker crank, so to answer Scott's question, yes! I'm wondering.
-----------------------Are you wondering what it cost today to build 410w stroker? With bought new decent parts. Doing all the assembly yourself. I already know this is an overkill build for the cars intended use. Just want to give some guys the cost break down . The rest of you can search marketplace and/or build with used parts . Or just buy a crate engine and be done .This is just my build and it is NOT CHEAP !
1995 351W roller engine (will only use the bare block) $500
Scat forged internal balanced kit 1-47405B1 $3166.
Promaxx Project X 210 Heads (Black Friday $1364) $1600
Scorpion Race Rocker Arms SCP1018 $447
Romac Harmonic Balancer AO21OSA-B $310
MSD Pro-Billet Distributors 8578 $489
MSD Blaster SS Coils 8207 $78
Canton oil pan 15-690 $479
SA Gear Timing Set 78151T-9R $100
FPP Hydraulic Roller Lifters M-6500-R302 $315
FPP Lifter Installation Kit M-6253-A50 $70
Edelbrock Air-Gap Intake Manifolds 7581 $493.
Cometic MLS Head Gaskets C5910-030 $193
Precision Oil Pumps Blueprinted Melling M-83 $149
McLeod Steel 164-Tooth Flywheel 463200 $345.
Cam Trick Flow TFS-51403003 $375
Pioneer Performance Freeze Plugs PE-108-B $25.
750 CFM 4-Barrel Carburetor BR-67320 $700
Spark plugs NGK 4091 Spark Plug $20
Taylor Ceramic Pro Spark Plug Wires 75053 $150
MSD Digital 6AL Ignition 64253 $350
Proform Self-Locking Wedge Header Bolts 66827 $35
Doug's Headers D623 $900
ARP Head Bolt Kits $55
ARP Main Stud Kits $85
ARP Intake Bolt Kits $45
Edelbrock Carburetor Stud Kits 8008 $15
Manley Chromoly Pushrods 25337-8 $155
Total Seal Assembly Lube $25
Permatex-Thread Sealant 80632 $10
Fel-Pro-Intake Manifold Gasket 1262R $30
FEL-PRO 1487 Exhaust Manifold Gasket $45
ARP Balancer Bolts 150-2501 $25
Fuel Line SUM-G3140A-2 $110.
Canton Racing Oil Pan Stud Kits 22-360 $25
Flywheel Bolts 200-2802 $25
Cometic Timing Cover Seals C5656 $25
Ford Racing Valve Cover Slant Edge ($150 new EBay) $300
Crankcase Evacuation Systems AAF-ALL34145. $50
Jomar-Hi-Flow NO-BYPASS Professional Oil Filters $20
Canton Racing Oil Pan Pickups 15-691 $80
Canton Racing Universal Dipsticks 20-850 $30
Canton Racing Oil Pan Gaskets 88-652 $70
Fel-Pro Valve Cover Gaskets VS 13264 T $40
ARP Valve Cover Stud Kits 200-7620 $35
CVF-B-302-WP-CW-SHORTY black water pump $160
Jegs Timing Cover 555-50300 $145
30 Lucas Engine Break-In Oil 10630 $40
Clevite Camshaft Bearings SH-510S $35
Freeze Plugs PE-108-B $25
CVR Protorque Maximum Starters 5055M $342
PARTS TOTAL = about $13,336
plus what the Machine shop will charge for cleaning block, square Deck, bore, Line hone Mains, install cam bearings . could have went with some used less expensive parts but not complaining about cost .this is what it cost with all new parts . I am retired with a good 401k & investments . So went with some good stuff . Especially seeing as how the stang will only be coming out once or twice a month to go to the ice cream stand . people also flip when I tell them the Heidts Pro-G front suspension was over 8k not installed , and the Heidts bolt in rear 4-Link another 3k . car actually had a Coyote engine sitting in it at one point . Was going to go that route
( the reason for the high dollar Hiedts IFS ) Still need to replace the soon to be destroyed T5 with a TKX about $3600 lol . But what the hell can not take the cash with me 67 yrs old and fading lol I want that feeling back when my Dad bought me my first of many hot cars . I was 16 and It was a red 66’ coupe just like my red one pictured had the 289 HiPo with 4-spd. The year was 1974 . This one will be slightly quicker
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I had about $6k in my Chevy 383 for my Blazer, which was finished in 2004. The 331 for my '89 GT cost about $8,500 including all the EFI parts, and was completed in 2020 or thereabouts. Its all relative. I have about $17k in my 6.0 Diesel. I avoid crate engines because I generally want what I want in the engine going in one of my vehicles, and crate engines tend to use whatever parts the builders get the best deal on. My 6.0 started as a shortblock I got from RCD. That's as close as I've come to a crate engine since I put the Ford reman 289 in m y'67 in '94.
You can always build it cheaper, but probably not better. I've always been a fan of buy once cry once.
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I see he used ProMaxx heads. Project X 210cc Aluminum 56cc for SBF
I'd never heard of them; they sound too good to be true at $1600 a pair fully assembled. Anyone running them?
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Avoid, avoid, avoid. There are hundreds of posts about the failures associated with those heads. Cheap, cheap valve train parts are used. The castings are also from China.
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Just like everything nowadays, building or buying an engine is expensive! I just did a comparison for a "nice" stroker Windsor for one of my Lightnings. Obviously nice is subjective, but I wanted parts from well known suppliers and around 5-600HP. $14K was cheapest I could find from Ford Strokers.
Very long story short I picked up a brand new Ford Godzilla longblock for $6100.00...
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Avoid, avoid, avoid. There are hundreds of posts about the failures associated with those heads. Cheap, cheap valve train parts are used. The castings are also from China.
Most AFR heads are cast in China.
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rpm wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
Avoid, avoid, avoid. There are hundreds of posts about the failures associated with those heads. Cheap, cheap valve train parts are used. The castings are also from China.
Most AFR heads are cast in China.
Only the Enforcer series, which is their budget head. All the premium heads are cast in the US.
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Raymond_B wrote:
Very long story short I picked up a brand new Ford Godzilla longblock for $6100.00...
Funny that you mention that. I just saw a piece on the Godzilla so I looked a skosh further. Saw the prices and was impressed for that level of performance and late model quality, it seemed a great value. This engine package leaves a fair bit of room for a wiring harness and ECM. Trans and beyond can get very expensive quickly.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Avoid, avoid, avoid. There are hundreds of posts about the failures associated with those heads. Cheap, cheap valve train parts are used. The castings are also from China.
Keyboard warriors are a tricky lot. I am interested in direct feedback from someone who is running them, which is why I asked "Anyone running them?"
Numerous posters on the VMF forum and Yellow Bullet forum have good opinions of the castings. One machine shop stated they've had good luck with the assemblies. Based on how poorly RPM's AFR 185 heads (original first-gen series, USA made, CNC machined ports and chambers) are completely worn out* after about 40k miles, my opinion of things is tainted.
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Hogged out valve guides, soggy springs with lost tension
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I just saw a U-Tube show with David Freiburger. He is using Promaxx heads on a 350 sbc. 185cc I believe. And I think I saw one by DAZE recently. He's using them on his 393 build. I, too, have heard bad things about them.
Go figure.
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BroPaul wrote:
Raymond_B wrote:
Very long story short I picked up a brand new Ford Godzilla longblock for $6100.00...
Funny that you mention that. I just saw a piece on the Godzilla so I looked a skosh further. Saw the prices and was impressed for that level of performance and late model quality, it seemed a great value. This engine package leaves a fair bit of room for a wiring harness and ECM. Trans and beyond can get very expensive quickly.
Yes supporting stuff can get expensive quick and a Mustang would need a Holley front dress which adds $$$. BUTT™ there's ways to offset it. I guess it comes down to what you want, a nice stock-ish standard SBF will win as you can reuse everything. But once you start looking at higher HP levels it starts to favor the Godzilla a bit. I will say all in (Holley front dress, BTR cam, BTR intake, adapter for E4OD, Holley EFI, etc) I am still below $13K. It actually arrived Friday. Now I have to do the cam and front dress swap.
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lowercasesteve wrote:
I just saw a U-Tube show with David Freiburger. He is using Promaxx heads on a 350 sbc. 185cc I believe. And I think I saw one by DAZE recently. He's using them on his 393 build. I, too, have heard bad things about them.
Go figure.
Daze has FloTek heads.
Last edited by Nos681 (6/02/2026 2:24 AM)
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BroPaul wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
Avoid, avoid, avoid. There are hundreds of posts about the failures associated with those heads. Cheap, cheap valve train parts are used. The castings are also from China.
Keyboard warriors are a tricky lot. I am interested in direct feedback from someone who is running them, which is why I asked "Anyone running them?"
Numerous posters on the VMF forum and Yellow Bullet forum have good opinions of the castings. One machine shop stated they've had good luck with the assemblies. Based on how poorly RPM's AFR 185 heads (original first-gen series, USA made, CNC machined ports and chambers) are completely worn out* after about 40k miles, my opinion of things is tainted.
------
Hogged out valve guides, soggy springs with lost tension
I had a ProMaxx casting as a replacement head on my 6.0 Diesel that cracked and caused the engine to hydrolock on cranking. The only reason the valve train wasn't a problem was that I bought a bare casting and reused my factory vale train components. Based on that experience alone I wouldn't run ProMaxx heads if you gave them to me.
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BroPaul, a very timely post for me. Memorial Day weekend what was supposed to be a 700-mile round trip drive along the coast (Huntington Beach to Carmel) ended in 125 miles as a valve in the twenty-two-year-old Ford Z304 head broke. I will post the story and photos in another post.
Long story short, I am ordering a Ford Performance M-6007-Z2363FT today. 8.2 inch deck height so flywheel, clutch, front dress, starter, fuel pump, intake manifold, and distributor transfer to new block. I will not transfer the Autolite 4100 as it does not flow enough cfm. Cost excluding carburetor: $11,364.75. I cannot build an equivalent engine for this cost and for my use, the components are satsfactory.
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boss347convertible wrote:
BroPaul, a very timely post for me. Memorial Day weekend what was supposed to be a 700-mile round trip drive along the coast (Huntington Beach to Carmel) ended in 125 miles as a valve in the twenty-two-year-old Ford Z304 head broke. I will post the story and photos in another post.
Long story short, I am ordering a Ford Performance M-6007-Z2363FT today. 8.2 inch deck height so flywheel, clutch, front dress, starter, fuel pump, intake manifold, and distributor transfer to new block. I will not transfer the Autolite 4100 as it does not flow enough cfm. Cost excluding carburetor: $11,364.75. I cannot build an equivalent engine for this cost and for my use, the components are satsfactory.
Post some pics of that bad boy!
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331 stroker in a 5.0 roller block. Short block only. No cam or lifters. Came to right at $3750 with flywheel and harmonic balancer and all machine work done.
Add on from there for complete engine.
I would rather buy a car with no engine vs one needing rust repair or body work any day.
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MS wrote:
331 stroker in a 5.0 roller block. Short block only. No cam or lifters. Came to right at $3750 with flywheel and harmonic balancer and all machine work done.
Add on from there for complete engine.
I would rather buy a car with no engine vs one needing rust repair or body work any day.
X10,000,000!
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TKOPerformance wrote:
MS wrote:
331 stroker in a 5.0 roller block. Short block only. No cam or lifters. Came to right at $3750 with flywheel and harmonic balancer and all machine work done.
Add on from there for complete engine.
I would rather buy a car with no engine vs one needing rust repair or body work any day.X10,000,000!
Totally agree. Here in the northeast, I've always said that rust is like an iceberg, what you see is a small portion of what you've got.
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