I installed a clutch& diaphragm  pressure plate from NAPA(stock) so long ago I can't remember the man. Point being...sounds like what you used 5+ years ago !!
I vote...GET ANOTHER ONE JUST LIKE IT !
'Maybe' get the flywheel resurfaced if it looks scuffed/burned...
OR just because it's good shop practice.
I think the solid bronze pilot bearings are 'near bullet-proof' so why switch to roller !?
If you ain't rac'in and squeezing 400+ HP outta the engine/running it thru a trac-loc with big gearz and even BIGGER rear tires the above suggestions should work just fine...(Butt-watta-eye-no !?)
6sally6

Last edited by 6sally6 (7/30/2026 1:40 PM)

Are you sure that the clutch is properly adjusted so that it fully disengages?  An easy test is to put the transmission in 1st gear (engine off), push the clutch pedal down all the way and push the car .  If it won't move, you need to adjust your clutch mechanism.

If that's too complicated or you only have yourself, put it in 1st gear with the engine off, push the clutch pedal in all the way and bump the starter.  If the car moves, your clutch mechanism needs adjustment

Last edited by John Ha (7/31/2026 6:59 AM)

Hi All, ty for the responses! 

TKO solid point, there is no rattles, clacking or vibration in Neutral, I never thought of a Finger Breaking, but I really do not like style of diaphragm.  Can't wait to swap it out.

To answer other questions and comments, the car has driven perfectly for 5yrs, I stayed in 1st a little too long and leaned a little too hard and it got stuck from that point and hasn't worked since....it's presenting like the Pressure Plate or the Pilot as of now.

As for the Fork, I have considered this and likely going to change it again anyhow, so yes possibly the fork bent, just not sure how during a 1st - already in gear acceleration

Long, Borg & Beck and Diaphragm are 3 separate and different styles of pressure plates.
Your 3 bolt balancer indicates that you have a pre-1970 crankshaft which would be 28 oz imbalance but nothing is guaranteed. 

The engine’s casting number and date code can be found on the starter side of block.  You may have to remove the starter to see them.  The casting number only indicates that it wasn’t made before that year.  The engine’s date code typically is a short time prior to the car’s “build’ date as found on the data plate that is on the driver’s door jam.
Details reading these numbers is just a Google search away. 

Just for S & G's.......how are your motor mounts?! How old...?  What do they look like...? Any cracks..?
The reason I axe is....FOR YEARS I was having "issues" with clutch/Z-bar/etc.
After "extra springs"...grease...heim joints.. I replaced BOTH motor mounts (really wasn't that difficult) and "issues" are
a-thing-of-the-past.
Might be worth a look !!
6sally6

John Ha wrote:

M1Mustang69 wrote:

...it's presenting like the Pressure Plate or the Pilot as of now.

If the pilot bearing fails, the transmission and clutch still function - at least in my experience.

If your pressure plate isn't fully disengaging, it will be difficult to shift while the car is moving and very difficult to shift into any gear while the car is at rest with the engine running.  A mal-adjusted or bent linkage (as BobE suggested), or a deformed clutch fork would cause the clutch to not fully disengage.  It's also possible that something inside the transmission failed - which can happen if you slam it hard into a gear and don't have travel stops on your shifter.

IME, if you bent or broke something in the transmission it would be stuck in one gear.  This is what happens when you break or bend a fork (usually they break).  The broken fork is unable to pull the slider back off the speed gear to which its engaged because the fork is broken.  This leaves you stuck in that gear.  If you are able to shift into all the gears under any circumstance then its unlikely the transmission is damaged internally.  

This issue really sounds like a failure of the clutch to disengage.  There could be several causes of that.