| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
What kind of clearance should there be between the PB pushrod and MC piston? As currently adjusted there's about .050" travel before the PB rod starts to contact the piston. Using the MS booster & pedal assembly.
Offline
If you got the booster from me, I use a tool to adjust them to the proper setting. You want about 0.010" to a max of 0.130". I adjust them to as close to 1" as I can get them, usually with about 0.010" gap.
Offline
just to be clear, you want clearance between the power booster and the mc push rod? or no clearance? Did you say a 1" gap ???
Offline
Not a 1" gap. The rod extends from the booster mounting surface (of the mc) 1". When the MC is installed, there should be 0.010" gap between the rod and the MC piston.
Offline
At rest, (brake pedal NOT applied), the output of the rod should not be making contact with the back of the MC piston.
Offline
...since the forum 'change,' and a 2 post minimum before you can include a link, I was not able to include a link to a simple procedure for setting the booster output rod length, specific to the MC that will be bolted to the booster.
Offline
Offline
MustangSteve wrote:
If you got the booster from me, I use a tool to adjust them to the proper setting. You want about 0.010" to a max of 0.130". I adjust them to as close to 1" as I can get them, usually with about 0.010" gap.
Thanks Steve. Did some more careful measuring and double checked with a little bit of clay and it's pretty darn close to 0.010". Just curious, what does the tool you use look like?
Offline
The tool I use consists of the end cut off an old master cylinder. I then welded a 1/4" wide piece of steel across the open end so I can see the booster rod. I made the steel piece so when the rod is just shy of touching it, then the rod is at the right depth. I adjust so many boosters I had to have a custom tool.
I used to use the method shown in ultrastang's link, but that is very cumbersome and there are multiple points of possible error whenever you have several steps to a process and each step requires a human intervention like reading a dial caliper, and positioning it correctly. Not everyone is even capable of doing that or might not have the right tool. (But for $20, you SHOULD have a dial caliper)
The other method I use when on a vehicle and my tool in not available is to adjust the rod too long, until the mc rocks on the longer shaft. Then carefully back off the adjustment until you no longer can feel the mc rocking on the rod. It is not as precise as using my calibrated tool, but it works.
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |