| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Well I finished removing all the front suspension on the stang yesterday. Any tips on getting the shafts out of the upper control arms??? I planned on reusing my upper arms. Already got the shaft kit and new ball joints. Just can't get the nuts off the control arm shaft. There is a lot of rust on them. I don't see that the PO welded them. So that's not the issue. Thanks.
Offline
My technique to remove the big nuts... Place the 1-1/4" hex nut in your securely mounted vise on the workbench, with the shaft sticking straight up. Then get a long pry bar (piece of pipe) and stick it through the control arm and use it as a big lever to rotate the control arm to loosen the shaft. Notice the pry bar in Deb's hand, getting ready to remove the second nut on that control arm in the picture.
Offline
Thanks Steve. The tips did the trick. Got the a arms taken apart. My question now, is there any tips on telling if they can be rebuilt? The threads on the arm where the shaft/bushing go are a little worn. I'll post some pics later.
Last edited by Tmac (1/31/2014 3:35 PM)
Offline
Put them back together and weld the nuts on per my web page. it actually does you a favor if the threads are stripped because then you can position them where they do not bind on the threads.
The fine threads are actually a double lead thread. There are two sets of threads, side by side, so the helix is the same as the coarse threads on the shaft. That way they thread together at the same rate on the coarse threads AND the fine threads. Stripped out works fine if you tack weld them.
The ones that have good threads and you cannot rotate the shaft in the nuts when you reassemble them are the ones you will hear squeaking, even with grease in them. The nuts bind up and try to tighten like a bolt clamping two parts together. But a bolt doesn't have to rotate. If they are in a bind, rapid wear will result. Stripped threads let you rotate them for best fit before welding.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |