| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Anyone running a rear sway bar on their 65/66? Here's one on Craigslist... local to me. It sounds like he didn't like it.
Offline
A rear sway bar adds oversteer to the car. Lots of folks don't like the feel of that. Personally, I feel that the stock front suspension geometry has too much understeer, so I added a rear swaybar to try to even out the feel and turn in response.
Offline
Ford built understeer into the early mustangs to keep the grannys and secretaries out of trouble. You can significantly alter that by doing the Arning Drop and building in a ton more caster than found in factory specs.
EDIT: That was quick. The poster already deleted the sway bar ad!
Last edited by boomyal (1/30/2014 10:49 AM)
Offline
If you do install one, I suggest using one that mounts UNDER the axle. There are some that mount atop the axle that are only good for ripping holes in your frame rails.
Offline
Yeah....Know what you mean,,,I fix mine by boxing the ends at the frame..I'll have to post a pitcure of how I address that isue...
Offline
I like my car (1965 Convertible) with a rear anti-sway bar (3/4") it seems to balance out the front 1" anti-sway bar - both are aftermarket.
But as was mentioned already the Arning Drop and a lot of caster did more to cure the handling problems than either anti-sway bar could ever do. For the caster I moved the upper control arm shaft forward (moving the arm backwards), and shifted the mounting point of the lower control arm bushing housing forward an equal amount - that builds in a lot more caster as "standard" than was even possible to add with shims.
Offline
JSHarvey wrote:
....... and shifted the mounting point of the lower control arm bushing housing forward an equal amount - that builds in a lot more caster as "standard" than was even possible to add with shims.......
That would certaily do it. I've not heard of that being done before and without standing underneath one I can't picture how one would do that.
I am still waiting to get underneath one, on a lift, so I can assess the ramifications of adding the manual steering quick steer pitman arm and idler arm to my factory power steered '65 convertible.
Last edited by boomyal (1/31/2014 9:26 AM)
Offline
Vkt-66 wrote:
Yeah....Know what you mean,,,I fix mine by boxing the ends at the frame..I'll have to post a pitcure of how I address that isue...
pitcures of how I address that isue..
Last edited by Vkt-66 (2/04/2014 1:04 PM)
Offline
Vkt-66 wrote:
Vkt-66 wrote:
Yeah....Know what you mean,,,I fix mine by boxing the ends at the frame..I'll have to post a pitcure of how I address that isue...
pitcures of how I address that isue..
The problem with the bar being mounted on top is the end links are so short they limit the articulation of the rear end, and those forces trying to tear the links apart are alot more than if the links are longer so they can move about a bit.
Offline
I would personally recommend a Stam-Bar --
Over-the-axle bars hit exhaust pipes, brake lines and chassis -- under-the-axle bars hit all kinds of stuff on the road.
The Stam-Bar mounts across the car, near the top of the hump between the trunk and rear seat, and just forward of the gas tank. It has arms that trail backwatds and mount to brackets bolted to the rear frame rails off the sides of the tank. It should clear everything.
Long, long ago I added a Shelby 1" front bar to my 1966 Coupe, which immediately made a big difference. I remember reading books about suspension that said a Mustang needed a rear bar more than a larger foront bar, so I added the small diameter Stam-Bar to the rear of the car, and again noticed the same level of improvement in cornering that I found with the front bar.
The Stam-Bar they sell now has adjustable clamps to vary the torsion, which my early model (1984 vintage) didn't have.
Offline
Stanger, your Stam-Bar link seems to be an isolated page. The links to products inside your page go nowhere and if you google Stam-Bar, the only thing that pops up is the link you provided.
Offline
Hmm, sorry about that. I just checked to see if the page still came up and didn't check any deeper. They used to have more information available, but I don't see it. Used to be able to buy direct, and all they sold was bars for early Mustangs and Cougars.
Apparently they are still available, though --
I was a dealer for Stam-Bar from the mid 1980s to 1998 or so, and had them on my car and had no problems with any I sold or installed on customers cars.
Offline
boomyal wrote:
JSHarvey wrote:
....... and shifted the mounting point of the lower control arm bushing housing forward an equal amount - that builds in a lot more caster as "standard" than was even possible to add with shims.......
That would certaily do it. I've not heard of that being done before and without standing underneath one I can't picture how one would do that.
I am still waiting to get underneath one, on a lift, so I can assess the ramifications of adding the manual steering quick steer pitman arm and idler arm to my factory power steered '65 convertible.
For the upper arm relocation see:
For the lower, the stock arms just pivot on a rubber bushing in a steel sleeve, just knock the sleeve over about 1/16 to 1/8" in the required direction and spot weld it in place. Or get fancy and buy a set of these:
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |