| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Derek(and any body else) Can you give some details about How you repositioned the perches? Where you measured..Any possible pit falls....how to NOT screw up.......all that stuff. I might do it when I "do-da-drop"!
6sal6
Offline
I took a look at that. The spring perch has a clearance radius cut into it so when the control arm moves upward, the spring perch will clear the hump over the ball joint. If you move it outward, it is not going to clear any more.
You guys that think you just HAVE to change something that works fine to begin with. Yes... I am probably more guilty than anyone for alot of stuff, but most of it usually at least makes some sense.
Do you really need a stiffer spring rate up front? That is all that swap achieves, or have I missed something? And missing something is something I occasionally do, but...
Offline
I moved my perches out 3/4". There is no evidence of the perch hitting the dome over the ball joint during the normal, operational rotation of the UCA.
As far as relocating with accuracy, I made a simple aluminum template. I used an old perch to drill the primary holes, then used a square to make the pilot holes in the template. Then I bolted the template to the UCA and drilled thru the pilot holes, into the UCA.
My very experienced Front End Engineer was very impressed with the way that all the parts looked and lined up, when he was finished.
I probably got about 1 1/4" lift out of the relocation. It put my front end right back where I wanted it after the excessive drop from the Arning Drop. It also noticably firmed up (stock springs) my front end without being obnoxious.
Last edited by boomyal (4/23/2013 9:38 AM)
Offline
I moved mine 1" a month ago and it totally changed how the car drives and feels.
I removed the spring perch, shock and spring. I made a wood template out of a piece of plywood I had laying on the ground. I drilled the two existing holes in the wood, then squared off a line and measured down one inch and drilled two 1/8" holes. I bolted it to the arm and drilled the pilot holes using the template, then stepped it up to the full sized holes.
To do both sides and put it back together took about 3-4 hours since I was playing with the kids at the same time. My son kept running off with the drill bits while I wasn't looking so I am sure you could do it faster if there were not challenges designed to slow you down.
After the perch move, The front end was much stiffer, and I didn't like it for a few days, but now I wish I had stiffer springs. The shocks are much more effective as well, so you get a free shock upgrade out of the deal.
Opentracker did say that there is the possibility on some A-arms that moving a full inch you may not be able to get a socket on the nut to tighten the spring perch back on. I have factory arms, so I didn't have that issue. It is one of those "gotta do it" modifications you will love later. And it is totally reversable.
BobN
Offline
I didn't have any problem with bolting on the perch or hitting the ball joint. I have (Grab-A-track) urathane perches, They may or may not have given me more clearence from the ball joint. As for drilling the holes ,I just used the perch it's self ,and ah micrometer to mesure for my holes. Using stock 6cyl springs was the cure for the stiffness...
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |