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I would like to run my rebuilt motor and do break in before final install in the car. Has anyone built their own engine run stand or can recommend a decent one for sale? Engine shop that did my rotating assembly work gave me a quote of about 800.00 to finish build and do a break in.
Just looking at options and ideas.
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IMO - put it in the car, to me, it's not worth the hassle. Follow the rebuilder's instructions. My last rebuilt engine builder recommended taking the car to about 30 MPH in 3rd gear, punch it, bring it up to about 50MPH, take your foot off the gas (clutch engaged), let the engine slow you down to about 30 MPH. Do this several times over the first 50 miles, or so. Helps seat the rings.
Good luck.
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IMO - put it in the car, to me, it's not worth the hassle. Follow the rebuilder's instructions. My last rebuilt engine builder recommended taking the car to about 30 MPH in 3rd gear, punch it, bring it up to about 50MPH, take your foot off the gas (clutch engaged), let the engine slow you down to about 30 MPH. Do this several times over the first 50 miles, or so. Helps seat the rings.
Good luck.
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BobE suggestion on breaking in an engine is called "Intermittent Loading" and works. When you accelerate at low speed, it throws oil against the opposite cylinder walls and when you decelerate down to low speed again it creates a high vacuum in the cylinders which sucks a certain amout of oil past the rings on the underside which lubes the rings and the pistons. Do that same thing for ten times and it will seat the rings It is also recommended not to really "trounch" on it for the first 500 miles. On a side suggestion, I never start an engine without having mufflers installed so I can hear what is going on in the motor. I lost one engine by not having muffles on it. It had a fluke problem related to the oil pump bolt on a Chevy and it wiped out the crank and all bearing before I could find out what was going on. Hope this helps.
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I agree with the others. PUT IT IN and "run it in " that way. UNLESS you have a high compression..big lift..full on race engine..then maybe use low tension springs and stuff like that. Typical "souped-up" street rod engine just install and go. Different methods of "breaking-in" by different folks. With moly rings or cast rings...they seat very quick. After breaking in the cam(if FT) no oil leaks...water leaks.. weird noises.. set the timing and carb and take it out. I LIKE to use about half throttle up to 3000 or so RPM and go through the gears. When about 50MPH or so let off the gas and let the engine slow you down to 25MPH. Do that several times increasing speed each time. Vary your speeds when doing this...in different gears too. I wouldn't really "wring-it-out" until you done this little procedure for a couple of days(IF you can control yourself!) You will know when its time to...."nail it"! Then ...............DO IT!!
6sal6
Last edited by 6sally6 (4/25/2013 9:21 PM)
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