| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
Hey all,
Will have my lines all done tongith. Before I bleed them, to confirm the line closest to the fire wall is for the front brakes correct? Normally I look for the big bowl but this is one of those newer style m/cs so I can't just see it. So again, the first hold on the m/c closest to the fire wall is for the front brakes, and the the second hole on the m/c furthers from the fire wall is for the rear brake lines, correct?
Thanks guys.
Offline
rmousir wrote:
Hey all,
Will have my lines all done tongith. Before I bleed them, to confirm the line closest to the fire wall is for the front brakes correct? Normally I look for the big bowl but this is one of those newer style m/cs so I can't just see it. So again, the first hold on the m/c closest to the fire wall is for the front brakes, and the the second hole on the m/c furthers from the fire wall is for the rear brake lines, correct?
Thanks guys.
Correct!
Offline
I thought so. Thank you.
Offline
Rather than trying to get the air out with traditional methods which work against gravity, try one of the kits that inject brake fluid from the caliper/wheel cylinder. This method will get all the air out 100% and gets the hardest pedal ever. With this system, you start at the furthest point working ahead.
Offline
I haven't seen that but I will look around. I have the cheapO pnumatic system from HF. I'll do the first bleed that way then do the old fashioned method of pump.... hold... pump.. hold.... hope it all works well. then I'll hook up the vacume. so far all looks good. The brake pedal seems a little low but I'm not sure its a problem yet. Doing MS power brakes and have the bracket and all the good stuff with it. I'll keep you posted.
Offline
Hey Rudi,
Do you have a link to one of those types of bleeders?
Offline
Marlon66 wrote:
Hey Rudi,
Do you have a link to one of those types of bleeders?
Not inexpensive but your life may depend on how well your brakes work!
Offline
I just bought this very tool from Eastwood today. They have it on sale right now for $23.00
Offline
Ok.. two more questions just to be sure. I've got this m/c from a 1996 mustang. There are the line holes for the brake lines.
1. First line hole closest to the fire wall is smaller than the second line hole which is furtherest from the fire wall. but the second line hole is bigger than the first. Takes a bigger fitting to hook up the lines. Is it still the right line for the rear brakes? Even with the bigger fitting?
2. What type of flares should I be using? I was using double flares but I had a major leak. Went and got some more tubing and the guy at the parts store was telling me to do a bubble flare. That the m/c was set up for that. Is that correct? I thought all was good with double flare. i can do a bubble flare no problem but wanted to be sure.
Going to get it all buttoned up tonight if I can get confirmation today.
Thanks guys. Appreciate it.
Offline
Hole closet to the firewall is still the correct hole for the the front brakes, it is typical for the fitting to be larger on the front hole (for the rear brakes) maybe to help ensure that the right lines get connected to the right ports.
I do believe that the '96 Mustang MC uses metric fittings & bubble flares so you're parts store guy is correct. There are bubble flare to double flare adapters available, no real downsides to using them if they don't create clearance issues for lines in tight spaces but you'll have a cleaner setup without those.
Offline
great!! thanks for the quick reply. I found a easy to follow video on how to make bubble flares. I think I'll just bubble flare the lines on the m/c ends and be good.
Offline
I've never made bubble flares but the flaring tool for these is different than a double flaring tool. I've seen where people say you can make an acceptable bubble flare by doing only the first step with a double flaring tool but I'm skeptical in this regard. Does your local parts shop loan tools? Would probably be best to use the right thing and make sure you've got the correct metric nuts.
New lines on my old school SAE iron MC, larger 7/16" nut on front port for rear brakes:
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |