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OK all,
I have the power brake set up by MS. I've put in 2 different m/c and both leaked from the back seal. I need this car bake up and on the road this week. So I've pulled the power boosters and returned the 2nd m/c. I pulled my new lines and am reverting back to a Manual m/c set up.
I used a '74 m/c before for a manual disc/drum set up and I don't have it any more. It worked great. Long story but lesson learned. Anyway, I can't get a '74 maverick m/c for a week. Need one today.
Anyway, I'm trying to find a replacement for this. I've got both a '67 mustang manual disc drum m/c and a '84 ranger manual disc/drum master cylinders on order at the local part supply. I think both will work.
Which one should I use? Or is there a better bolt on option that I should get? I'm aggerivated and I want this done today. Any help and direction would be greatly appreciated. I'm holding on to the power stuff and I'll do that later. Right now I need the car fixed and on the road by Wednesday.
Thanks guys.
Richard.
Last edited by rmousir (4/28/2013 1:05 PM)
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rmousir wrote:
OK all,
I have the power brake set up by MS. I've put in 2 different m/c and both leaked from the back seal. I need this car bake up and on the road this week. So I've pulled the power boosters and returned the 2nd m/c. I pulled my new lines and am reverting back to a Manual m/c set up.
Richard.
So...why did you pull the booster because the MCs leaked? Just wondering.
BB
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It was the second m/c that I used. I've had issues with the lines. Finally figured out that they were bubble flares and not standard flares.
So I went through that mess.. and then last night after redoing everything twice I had two leaks. One line, and the m/c. Second time for the second m/c. I'm on a dead line and I'm going back to what works until I find the time to get back to working all this out. Probably next summer. So need to get the car back on the road.
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67-73 Mustang disc/drum mc will fit power or manual but be sure the pedal cannot come back far enough for the rod to fall out of the master cylinder. Seems that would be the easiest one to make everything fit. I also am wondering why you would go to all the trouble to remove a power booster just because something unrelated leaked?
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thanks......
It was one of those I'm tired and I need to walk away from the project for a while and calm down. Sorry about the post, I was in a venting mood and needed a beer..
So the m/c that I got in 'trade' I figured would be 'alright' but it wasn't. Shame on me. Went and bought a new one and it leaked from the rear seal. Then I got frustrated and vented. I've since had a beer and dinner and reflected a little.
I decided I've come all this way I might as well see it through. Spoke to my local part house and they said sometimes this happens. So I ordered another m/c (using a '67 mustang power disc m/c) and it should be in tomorrow. I then installed the booster again and all is ready for the new booster to come in tomorrow. I'll test fit it, have lines ready, then if all is good bench bleed and move on.
Its more of a case of the gremilns getting to me. Third master cylinder should be a charm right?
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rmousir wrote:
...... Third master cylinder should be a charm right?...
So the legend goes! Good Luck! It's a real PIA when you have to handle the same thing more than once.
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OK!!! New m/c does not leak!! All the new lines do not leak!!! New brake pads are in. Add the vacume hose and wow! Effortless braking.
Thanks for getting me through the leaks. I got pretty frustrated there. Took the car through the hood this evening to test things out and the car can STOP on a dime and lock up the wheels with out any effort at all.
Its kind of too easy!
So I have some questions for anyone who has the MS set up for power brakes.
1. My brake pedal is about the same height as the gas pedal and travels quite a way before max braking. With out the booster it feels pretty good pressure wise. With the booster it is very very easy to stop. Could I have too much vacume?
2. I put on a new brake light switch. I have to be pretty close to max breaking before the brake lights come on. Is there a way to get the switch to turn on the brake lights sooner? Any trick to making it more sensitive?
3. I installed the new pin as instructed, but I was wondering what would happen if I put the push rod on the stock pin? I think it would make the brakes more touchy, but would it apply the brakes sooner? Would it help with the switch?
Thanks guys.
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When I sell a booster, I adjust the output shaft to the proper depth before shipping the part. Did you adjust the output shaft so it fits the master cylinder? It should have only about 0.010" gap between the output shaft and the mc piston.
If your brake pedal sits even with the accelerator pedal, either your accelerator pedal is very high, or you did not mount the pedal pin in the correct location. Is the center of the pin exactly 3/8" from the forward edge of the pedal arm? Moving the pin even 1/16" will move the foot pad 3/8". If it is mispositioned 1/8", the pedal will sit 3/4" too low.
There should not be any stroke in the pedal system without the brakes starting to apply. Use a brake light switch from a 68-70 POWER BRAKE car if yours does not come on immediately. That might be also caused by the booster output shaft being out of adjustment. If the pedal senses no pressure, the switch is not going to be tripped.
If the rear drum brakes or calipers are not adjusted so they are very close to the drum or rotor, there will be excessive travel in the brake pedal.
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Alrighty!!
I did what MS said to do and would you know it, the brakes feel pretty good and my brake light comes on right when I touch the brake pedal. The mustang rolls again. I've only driven it once around the hood to test so far. But I'll hve the car out today. I'm predicting that all is good!
thanks guys and a big thanks to Steve for helping me through this one.
What will the next project be? hmmmmmm
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