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Is there a torque spec for the threaded nut that holds in the parking brake actuator, or is it just supposed to ne RFT (real F'ing tight)?
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nobody!?
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Here is a link for a bolt torque chart by Fastenal. If you don't have a manual to specify the proper torque, then use the bolt to make a determination. Match the bolt size, thread count, grade, along with dry, lubed, or in between. I like the K=0.17 personally. Hope this helps.
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I don't have a book handy, but I'm thinking somewhere between 50-70 lbs which isn't super tight. Been a long time since I've had mine apart.
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thanks for trying guys. "Bolted to Floor", it's not really a bolt or a nut but a screw in "cap" that retains the "guts" of the parking brake actuator, so the bolt torque chart doesn't apply. I think I need someone with a manual that lists the rebuild and torque specs. Cougrnut, 50-70# sounds reasonable, but I'd like verification. Thanks.
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The rear cap is 75-95 ft-lbs, and the little bolt that holds the lever arm to caliper is 16-22 ft-lbs. Found answer on just answer .com . Also there is a good video on YouTube. Versailles rear caliper rebuilding #3.
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Videos 1-3 where pretty good, I had watched them previously, the guy said he "thought" it should be 90-100# torque but wasn't sure in the video. I'll shoot for the 90# number. Thanks!
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I had 90 stuck in my head, but wanted to double check. I used synthetic grease that looks like black molybdenum grease in mine 20+ years ago. Also, be sure to hookup parking cables so that the piston will adjust. Parking brake is marginal at best, but OK on flat ground. In San Francisco or Pittsburgh, you better curb you wheels and carry a plastic wheel chock. When I worked in SF and drove my cougar everyday back in the day, I was considering using a driveshaft brake like the streeteodders use, that uses a machine disc that bolts to u-bolted pinion flange and incorporates a simple bracket that mounts to 3rd member and uses a go-cart caliper. Too pricey and/or time consuming at the time. Let me know how it goes. Mike
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