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Hey everyone.
need help with picking an aluminum radiator for my 65 mustang with a 302 (outlet/inlet on passenger side) . I havea 3 row stock style radiator. With NO shroud, and a 5 (or 6) bladed flex fan.
Now thats its getting over 80 degrees , with the AC on, and in traffic, stop and go, I creep upwards of 200.. 210..220 has been seen.. I got to 230 today after I hit a patch of HEAVY traffic after a 60 mile highway run. Yes AC had to be turned off , and yes there was a lot of Heat involved lol..
So .. hoping to get the whole system cooled down a bit. In city.. going 35-45 mph .. even with ac on, with ccasional red light stops I never go over 195. running engine stays around 180-190. Thermostat is 180degree
that said. . I was talking to Tim (Tmac) here, few months ago, and he went with the PRC racing GM version 2 row crossflow, doublepass Part #2111106. Issue with that is, t doenst have oil cooler which I NEED for my C4 automatic tranny. Plus it doesnt come with an electric fan or a shroud.. so that will need to be added , and brackets will need to be fabricated.
Is there a product you all can guide me to that has oil cooler , electric fan, and a shroud.
Money: I can afford upto 300-350 max.. Please!! try to help me with something fitting that budget.
Apprecaite y'all's help! thanks!
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There are lots of aluminum radiators out there between $150- $250. Personally mine came from Virginia Mustang about 3 years ago. IT is a 2 core and works great! it also has the tranny cooler built in. I have an aod in my 65 and I added an external cooler to help. As far as the shroud and brackets I ordered mine from NPD i think!! Virginia has those as well.
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I used to sell the same radiator Virginia Mustang sells, if it is the one I am thinking of. It is a really good one for a great price, under $250. Two row core aluminum with a formed tank, not a fabricated tank. I do not like the ones with the beads of weld all over them. The formed tank looks like it could have been period correct.
The best thing to do is upgrade the SIZE. See my bigger radiator page for some tips. I like using the 69 clamp-in radiator as it is 24" wide and looks original. Plus they make some good shrouds for them. The 24" requires you to cut some of the core support, but well worth doing. The 67-69 20" wide radiator can be bolted in without cutting anything. Your original is 17" wide.
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So what are your thoughts about electric fan? Needed ? Not??
I used to have a fibre glass shroud that Dallas mustang had installed. But that was more pain in the butt than anything.
I am
Leaning towards getting away from the fan setup I have and have an electric Fan that has a shroud made of metal, that can do the job well.
What are your thoughts ..
If I had to do that, I have never installed a radiator shroud or fan by myself... How would I do it?
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There is extensive discussion of these questions in the archives and often you will have greater success using the search function and following the threads. A few seconds with a search on "electric fan" yields multiple hits including . There are positives and negatives on both. With mechanical, as long as you have room not going crazy on a 6" thick radiator or a belt drive that hangs a foot off of the front of the motor you can go straight flex (I have one you can have with shipping), a 69 clutch and fan setup, etc., and follow Steve's recommendation with a wider radiator and matching shroud. No need to reinvent the wheel when reasonalbly priced wheels are available. With electric fans you need to add a switch (multiple discussions recently on this topic), relays, wiring, and then you will find that the stock alternator may not be up to the task of powering your new headlights and electric fans so then you may need a 3G alternator and then re-wire that. For pure simlicity, go mechanical and you have cheap readily available parts. A lot depends on what you WANT rather than what other people recommend. If you want and electric fan, then put one in. I am going aftermarket radiator with side tanks, a shroud of some sort, a fox-body clutch and reverse rotation mechanical fan because that's what I want and I know it will work.
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Gaba wrote:
So what are your thoughts about electric fan? Needed ? Not??
I used to have a fibre glass shroud that Dallas mustang had installed. But that was more pain in the butt than anything.
I am
Leaning towards getting away from the fan setup I have and have an electric Fan that has a shroud made of metal, that can do the job well.
What are your thoughts ..
If I had to do that, I have never installed a radiator shroud or fan by myself... How would I do it?
G, I have an aluminum rad on my 66 from Va. Classic and it works great. I run a 6 blade fan and no shroud and I've never had an over heating problem and it gets pretty hot here in SE Va.I have an electric pusher fan installed in front of the rad but I never use it. I only installed it 'cause I got it for nothin.
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I had used a 17" aluminum radiator in my 65 with 347. Always ran a little warmer than i liked- somewhere in the 205 range. I switched to the 69 stock style 24" 3 row brass with stock shroud, as shown by MS. I have a 7 blade stock fan. The car now runs in the 185-190 zone. I am happy with that. Plus I think it looks better than the aluminum set up. Do anything to stay away from electric fans.
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I agree with Bruce. My 66 has a 530 HP 427 stroker in it. The original 74 Maverick 17" flex fan does the job perfectly. It has never quit on me, there is no extra wiring required and it looks period correct.
A well-planned out and properly installed OEM style electric fan will work nicely, but in my opinion they are a waste of effort. Very few that I see are properly mounted where they won't tear the radiator up. Some of the pics posted on this site show some right ways to install one, and there might be one or two that could have been better.
I wish I could have finished my F-100 project. I was going to install an electric fan and yellow spark plug wires.
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So... I am deciding on the Virginia radiators 67-69 20" radiator. With matching shroud from them. The shroud listed on their website , is that deep enough?? If not would someone give me a long for a good shroud to use that'll fit
Question::: do I buy 65 radiator mounts? Or 67?
Talking about the thin metal strips that stick off the radiator to mount the shroud and such.
The way the shroud is, does it match the engine/fan positioning on the 65?
Overflow tank:: got a plastic one right now, looks ... Mm mm.. Hedious.. As it doesn't match with anything and has green/ red residue from when my system was real dirty.. Where to buy that overflow that mounts on the side of the radiator?
Thanks
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Before you do anything else, go buy a new 13 # radiator cap for a NON-RETURN type system. Install it, add coolant to withing 1/2" below the bottom of the filler neck ( DO NOT OVERFILL) and drive the car on a warm day. Report back with temperature it runs.
A $30 digital thermometer is a great tool for diagnosing radiator issues. Take 9 or more readings. Three across top of core (not tank), three across middle of core. Three across bottom row of core.
Should be no cold spots and readings should get progressively warmer towards the top. See if you have any cold spots or abnormal readings. Cold represents blockage in the radiator which calls for replacement. If you have no blockages and the gauge reads a little cooler, follow up with a new 180 degree thermostat. The pointed end faces towards the radiator. Install that and then check the gauge. If improvement, you are probably home free. If it runs hot still, you might have internal engine blockage of water passages. A 302 should not overheat if the radiator and thermostat are working, even marginally, on a 80 degree day. What I am saying here is do not assume a new radiator will fix an overheating engine!
Things as simple as a bad vacuum advance on the distributor, wrong timing, plugged exhaust or inacurate gauge can cause the thing to get hot.
If you are not practiced in working on the Mustang, and still need some experience before tackling a radiator retrofit to a larger one, I would suggest buy one that is a direct bolt-in for the caar. That way, all you have to deal with are four bolts and two hose clamps.
But do the diagnostics described first to see if that is even the issue.
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Thanks Steve. The cap is new .. Rated to open at 230.
I will get readings with my laser heat gun, on the three points.. I see what you are saying and why. That's a good thing to do before I do anything.
I know there were floaters up on top of the radiator. Little peices of metal or rusted metal.. Seemed to be from the radiator itself.
I have actually tried 180 and 190 new thermostats . This one in there is new (3 months old) .. New hoses and new water pump.
I will do the temperature readings in the upcoming Days
As you probably gathered from my PM, yes I very new at this and don't have experience in retro fits. It definitely would be safe to get a drop fit.
As far as vaccum, it's there, lots of it. Timing..as days get hotter, I am hearing knocking... My base is set at 10. May be I'll take it down a bit. Make it stop pinging at 50-55mph under load. Once that is good. I'll take temps and then report back.
If you remember from my first post on this forum, timing was the first thing I was fighting. But then I got top end work done on this engine. And it ran a lot better smoother and consistent. Been 4 months since then.
My headlights and harness is in. Will be installing that soon though
So there is good news in all this.
Should I use the deeper shrouds? Dallas mustang carries one.. Wasn't the best fit IMO... Do you guys have good recommendation for the future shroud.
I have no shroud now
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This one is direct bolt-in, two row core aluminum, same as the one I used to sell. It is a good quality all-welded radiator (no epoxy joints)
You can retrofit an original shroud to it, but they are not much good. I know some of the guys here have purchased other aftermarket shrouds, or even made some themselves. Maybe someone will chime in on that. I have never bought an aftermarket shroud for a 17" radiator, so I do not have much experience with that. I did buy a reproduction of an original. It was not worth throwing in the trash can. At least the original was made out of steel that did not bend if you touched it.
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I bought a shroud for mine from NPD. However it would not fit properly at the bottom. It hit the tranny cooler lines. I had to modify it to fit. It is made of plastis and like Steve said it will bend if you touch it!!
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Thanks Steve and terry. The radiator you mentioned.. Thickness. .is that thichkness equal to a 3 row radiator or a 4 row radiator ?
asking , as I will have to buy the right fan shroud mounting brackets..
as far as the shroud goes.. Scott drake has one here :
or here is the one I used to have, but it didnt do a good job at fitting too well :
(dallas mustang site seems to be down for now) I'll post a link
I actually have the original fan shroud in my garage. I dont think its a remanufactured.. but Its too shallow.. i think ..
Last edited by Gaba (4/16/2014 5:07 PM)
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Gaba, this one is worth consideration. It is also a direct fit unit with drain valve and all.
Last edited by boomyal (4/16/2014 5:20 PM)
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Thanks, boom. That is the exact same radiator! Good price, too.
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hot dang thats a much better price.
Thatll free up the cash to buy the scott drake fan shroud..
now just let me know about the shroud mount brackets (3core width or 4core width?) . .and I should.. AGAIN!! SHOULD be set :D :D
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there are a bunch of those aluminum radiators on the internet especially ebay! it pays to shop around
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Thank you terry!!!!! I am looking around for a cheaper shroud that's 3 inches. Would you mind helping me find a deal on that too?
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now that we are on the topic of radiators.. let me ask one more question : Spring loaded lower radiator hose. I understand why people say its needed. But with the hoses sold today at autozone, is there still a need to look for a spring loaded lower hose ?
so the question repeat from above: thickness on these aluminum radiators: equals a stock 2rwo 3 row or 4 row radiator?
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Yes, you need a spring in the lower radiator hose. Either molded in or an add in spring. That is one thing that is never mentioned when troubleshooting overheating: the lower hose collapsing under suction and shutting of the water flow.
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I suspect the lower hose would be hard pressed to collapse with 7-13 lbs. pressure.
Howard
Last edited by hmartin025 (4/18/2014 8:59 AM)
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Thickness is like a 4 row. There were no factory 4 row radiators, and a 3 row was a rarity. You may not have room for a 3-1/2" shroud. You do not want the fan completely inside the shroud. About 1/2 out is OK
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MustangSteve wrote:
Thanks, boom. That is the exact same radiator! Good price, too.
.
.Just put my money where my mouth is. I just ordered one. I've been watching those for quite a while now and the price (with free shipping) was almost too good to be true. I figured that I better grab one while the gettin' was good.
I have been fighting marginally high temperatures for some time and all indications are that the aluminum one will make the difference. I'll swap it out when I get around to installing my Autolite 4100 and 4 bbl camshaft.
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ok so we are saying that we need a spring loaded lower radiator hose.. is that something mustang stores will still carry ?
I do already have the original fan shroud.. the one that is about a half inch or an inch.. I am guessing that is too shallow .. YES?
On cjpony I found 4 row radiator shroud mount brackets.. here :
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