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5/08/2014 2:32 PM  #1


To stall or not to stall

Ok Guys,
Needing advise.
65 FB  with a 70' 302 30 over, alum intake, 570cfm holley, petronix ign, 268 cam, basic 289 heads.
Thinking of doing AOD conversion.
Have a brand new rebuilt C4 and converter sitting, but decided on the over drive before installing in the car.
Now, i have this guy taping me in the back of the head saying you might want to stall it.
What do you guys think?
Motor isn't all that, but man i would hate to have to pull it just to change the converter.
 


Life is hard even harder when your stupid!
 

5/08/2014 2:38 PM  #2


Re: To stall or not to stall

what rear gears? I'd run more gear with an overdrive before a stall converter.

 

5/08/2014 2:51 PM  #3


Re: To stall or not to stall

Buddy of mine had a "dirt-track car" with a cammed up-hotted up-big compression 350(you-know-what) in it with a stock size 350 turbo converter in it. Was it ideal in that situation?! Nope....butt it did idled in gear(had to hold it with the brakes) and worked surpeisingly well.
The point.......you have a 289 with a small street cam....stock converter should work fine.
The other poster was right......more-gear-in -the-rear would be a better investment with the OD tranny.
6sally6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

5/08/2014 3:05 PM  #4


Re: To stall or not to stall

Gears are stock from the orginal 289 C4 set up.
i think 280's

The motor is just a street toy for cruse night.
The AOD is for weekend coast runs on the interstates
 


Life is hard even harder when your stupid!
     Thread Starter
 

5/08/2014 3:23 PM  #5


Re: To stall or not to stall

If you aren't going to Drag Race, DON"T waste your money on a stall converter. When I ran the C4 in my Mach and Drag Raced, the converter was about $950.00 by itself, plus the money I spent getting the C4 built.


"The OLDER I Get....The FASTER I Was..."
 

5/08/2014 3:59 PM  #6


Re: To stall or not to stall

As others have mentioned, gears would be a better choice.

You didn't mention what year model the AOD is. The better models are from 1988-1993. Models from '87 back to 1980 have various internal flaws from the factory, most notable, a lack of lubrication to the tail bushing. Lower gears (higher numerically) will make this problem worse if it's a pre-'88 model.

Regardless of automatic transmission type, one of the best and smartest things you can install is a transmission cooler --plumbed in series from the outlet of the cooling tank of the radiator to the fluid return line port on the transmission. Plate type coolers are superior to fin type.

I know this is a truck but this is an example of a Ford factory plate type transmission cooler I robbed from a 1992 F-150 and installed in my '69 F-100 with its stock C-4. Eventually, it'll cool the 4 R 70 W Ford 4-speed automatic overdrive transmission I have.

 

5/08/2014 4:03 PM  #7


Re: To stall or not to stall

2.80 rear gears with overdrive is going to make your engine really bog.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

According to this, at 55, you will be ticking along at something like 1300 rpms, and only 1691 at 70.

Your final drive ratio will be 1.88:1 - which means VERY little torque multiplication.  You may well end up burning a lot of fuel holding your throttle wide open at speeds that are just off idle, and very inefficient.  Might kill your gas mileage, rather than help it.

You should probably look at stepping up to a 3.50 rear gear set or so.  If you want to horse around, you might even consider 3.75s.  You will still have lower final drive in overdrive than you did with your 2.80 'economy' gears.  (3.75 with your overdrive works out to be 2.51 final drive ratio)

So basically, you get the low-end grunt, and still get better economy at highway speeds.  Best of both worlds.


"Whatever you are, be a good one." - Abraham Lincoln
 

5/08/2014 5:56 PM  #8


Re: To stall or not to stall

With the mention of 2.80 gears, that tells me you currently have an 8 - inch rear end under the car. The aftermarket has various rear gear ratios available.

Talking strictly Ford factory gears, and if you were looking for donor gears from a wrecking yard donor; lower gear sets (higher numerically) are not real common in vehicles with an 8 - inch rear end. In many cases, 3.00:1 is about as good as it gets. However, there were some vehicles that had 3.25, 3.40, 3.50, 3.55 or 3.80 gears in an 8-inch.

If donor gears are what you're after,  the best possibility to find a set of 3.40s or 3.55s would be to locate a '74-'78 Mustang I I or Pinto. Mavericks or Comets of that relative era may have them also. Some have Traction-Lok differentials, most do not. As an example, I have an 8-inch rear end assembly that came out of a '76 Mustang Cobra I I (302 V-8) with a 3.00:1 ratio but it does have a Traction-Lok differential. I also have an 8-inch 3rd member I pulled out of a '74 Mustang I I that had something less than a V-8 in it. It's a single track differential but does have 3.55:1 gears.

If you're looking for new aftermarket gears, there are some ratios available other than what came from the factory.

 

5/08/2014 6:42 PM  #9


Re: To stall or not to stall

I have a 302 HO with an AOD behind it.  I bought this all off one guy on craigslist.  He put a shift kit in the TRANNY and had a brand new 2500 stall the purchase also included a plate cooler, shifter and lines.  
While this is a stock 302 I dont think a stall is necessary and the others are right about bogging down.  I have 3.00 gears and at 60 its turning 1750 and I only get about 16 mpg.  I plan to up to 3.25 or 3.55 sometime.  It runs pretty good and I can scratch 2nd gear!!!

 

5/09/2014 7:15 AM  #10


Re: To stall or not to stall

Great info guys.
So heres another question for ya.
What iif i just stay with the C4. and the 2.80 gears.

It just sounds like im not gaining alot for the investment.

And the AOD i have is a 89' fox body, but its been beat on. Its have way down on my bench and is defenatly burnt.
So id have to put a least $350 in it, and then all the conversion gagets $200.

When the C4 is fresh rebuild and new converter.


 


Life is hard even harder when your stupid!
     Thread Starter
 

5/09/2014 1:19 PM  #11


Re: To stall or not to stall

OK, now we are getting somewhere.
IF you aren't planning a lot of highway miles, Put the C4 in it and enjoy driving it.
When upgradeitis hits, keep driving and enjoying it while you look for a 4r70w, controller and a set of rear gears to install as a package to minimize downtime.

Take it from a guy whos been building a car for the last 10 yrs. Enjoying a so-so performer beats looking at a paperweight with half the really cool parts it needs to be roadworthy.

 

 

5/09/2014 2:16 PM  #12


Re: To stall or not to stall

Yep thats what im going to do!
Ive been working on her for four years. Every nut and bolt and i mean every one.
You could eat off any part of her.
Im so close i can feel it.
Motor is running on a stand as is broke in.
She ready for it, everything done.
Motor in, mount fenders, hood, front grill, etc. Final paint, drive!
Ive kicking this around for to long, time to do something.
Thanks


Life is hard even harder when your stupid!
     Thread Starter
 

5/09/2014 5:40 PM  #13


Re: To stall or not to stall

Do the math...  If you change to 3.70 gears with the AOD and a 0.76:1 overdrive, the car will have the equivalent of a 2.81:1 rear gear at highway cruise.  Basically a NET ZERO change at cruise RPM.
So, if final drive ratio and highway cruising is the goal, you could just as easily use the C-4 and gears you have.

Your car will be a dog with the 2.80 gear and overdrive, equivalent of that C-4 with a 2.13:1 final drive ratio.  If you add a stall converter, it will be slipping ALOT at the low RPM highway cruise and that generates extra heat and a shorter tranny life.

If you decide to go with the AOD, go with at LEAST a 3.25:1 ratio, preferably 3.50:1 or 3.70:1.  That last one would be my choice if you really want to wake up the car and have a decent cruise RPM also.  You will not BELIEVE the difference a 3.70:1 rear gear will make.  It is really the first step up to a performance gear.

Last edited by MustangSteve (5/09/2014 5:42 PM)


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

5/09/2014 8:31 PM  #14


Re: To stall or not to stall

MustangSteve wrote:

Do the math...  If you change to 3.70 gears with the AOD and a 0.76:1 overdrive, the car will have the equivalent of a 2.81:1 rear gear at highway cruise.  Basically a NET ZERO change at cruise RPM.
So, if final drive ratio and highway cruising is the goal, you could just as easily use the C-4 and gears you have.

Your car will be a dog with the 2.80 gear and overdrive, equivalent of that C-4 with a 2.13:1 final drive ratio.  If you add a stall converter, it will be slipping ALOT at the low RPM highway cruise and that generates extra heat and a shorter tranny life.

If you decide to go with the AOD, go with at LEAST a 3.25:1 ratio, preferably 3.50:1 or 3.70:1.  That last one would be my choice if you really want to wake up the car and have a decent cruise RPM also.  You will not BELIEVE the difference a 3.70:1 rear gear will make.  It is really the first step up to a performance gear.

 
OP mentioned a 2.80 ratio. That means the rear end is an 8-inch. The 3.70 ratio wasn't available in an 8-inch. That was a 9-inch only ratio. The closest 8-inch ratio to that would be a 3.80.

The AOD overdrive ratio would be .68:1 (.677:1) instead of .76:1. Final drive with AOD and 3.70 gears would be 2.52:1 instead of 2.81:1 but, since it's an 8-inch, the 3.70 ratio isn't an option.

If the rear ratio was 3.80, final drive with the AOD would be 2.60:1.

With a 3.25 rear gear it would be 2.21:1.

With a 3.40 rear gear it would be 2.31:1.

3.50 would be 2.38:1.

3.55 would be 2.41:1.

 

5/09/2014 8:55 PM  #15


Re: To stall or not to stall

pretty much splitting hairs....
All still very valid points.
 

 

5/12/2014 7:54 AM  #16


Re: To stall or not to stall

incredable information guys.
this prety much solves my delimma.
stock it shall be.
no need to invest the time and money for no gain.

besides, most of the driven will be cruse nights from red light to redlight anyway.
il just leave early and take my time if i decide to travel out of town.

Thanks
 


Life is hard even harder when your stupid!
     Thread Starter
 

5/12/2014 11:49 AM  #17


Re: To stall or not to stall

Stall converter?  Are you talking about a lock up converter (stock AODs have them), or are you talking about a torque converter with a higher than stock stall speed?

Unless you're running a very high torque engine, the stock lock up converter/input shaft in the AOD should hold up fine and reduce rpms and trans temp when cruising.  Otherwise, someone sells a solid input shaft for the AOD that will handle more torque but lose the lockup/full stall feature.

John

 

Board footera


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