| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Hey,
I finaly recieved a crown vic ifs unit for my 71 f100 short bed.
I just had a few questions for those who have done the cv suspension swap already...
I'm confused on how the lower control arm adjusts caster. It basicly just moves the lower ball joint for caster adjustment correct? Or does it move the entire k frame in relation to the horizontal axis (ground/frame)
When setting up the lower control arm mount the only adjustment i need to worry about is on the vertical axis, correct? Or do i need to also worry about side to side?
So the lower control arm mount will actualy positioned off the frame and set to a desired caster angle. (6 degrees possitve?) What is a good way to measure this 6 degrees?
What do you guys think? I was also going to make dowel pin, female locators on the lathe at work and weld them on the frame for easy removal of the k member. The k member allready has locators on both sides.
Thanks,
David J. Henderlong
Offline
Caster is accomplished by moving the LCA rear bushing laterally. Doing so moves the lower ball joint front to back, in an arc centered about the LCA front bushing.
Being basically lazy, and figuring this is a truck that never had ANYTHING adjustable before, I decided to just make mine in a fixed location. I clamped a piece of 3/4" angle iron to each spindle so the iron was parallel to the center of both ball joints. I remember there was a convenient place on the spindles to do that, like it was made for that purpose for the assembly line, but I cannot remember exactly how it was done. I moved the rear LCA bushing until I got 6 degrees caster and then welded the bushing mount (not the bushing steel housing) to the frame. I very carefully measured both sides so I had 6 degrees.
The caster CAN be affected by the camber angle, and that is hard to determine without the full weight of the truck with engine on the suspension. Before you do anything, remove the LCA front bushing bolts and knock those metal flags off the heads of the bolts. Then reassemble less the flags. That will let you adjust the camber, as there is a slot down there, it is just blocked by the flags.
Once I get the truck up and running, if there are any alignment issues, I will worry about it then. All I have to do is cut off a few welds and make an adjustable mount for the bushings, but I am pretty confident it will work great just as it is.
I just drilled a hole in the frame where the pointed locator on the CV crossmember could locate itself. It sure cannot move from that position. I welded 1/8" wall tubing vertically where the 4 bolts go through the frame so the bolts cannot collapse the frame rails. Since you have to add a couple of thick washers to the top or bottom of the frame to match the thickness of the original CV rails, I placed them so they would tilt the entire crossmember rearward, giving maximum caster capability. That is also my ace-in-the-hole if caster is off. I can relocate the washers top to bottom or vice-versa to fine tune caster.
Offline
I have had mine done on the 79 F100 for about a month now, and I know i need to get some photos for you guys. I made a plate using the lower control arm bushing plates as a template, and sloted the holes in the plate for some adjustment, and could also shim between tham if needed. But i will say I have been lazy to get over to the alignment rack because the truck drives so nice, I have been driving these old twin-I-beam trucks for over 30 years, and it is unbelievable how it handles. Tuesday I drove it on a 170 mile round trip, and I sware at 75-80 mph you can let go of the wheel and it dives and tracks straight as an arrow, and the handleing is nothing short of amazing compared to what I started with. The swap lowerd the truck 5.5", and I am now running 2007 Mustang wheels with 235-55-17 tires. For now all I did in the rear was flip the 9" rear end on top of the springs, reset the pinion, and use some 1.25" wheel adapters which makes my front and rear track width with-in .25" of each other.
Offline
Here are a couple photos, and I'm still learning on this photo upload deal.
Offline
Thanks for the help. I emagine those flags are chamber adjusters correct?
Offline
I am thinking about something like this for my rear mount, after measuring the desired 6 degrees or so:
I am also thinking i am going to use this blue print to lacate my cv axle to the frame:
Great looking truck Kar! How bad was it to notch the rear of the frame? Doesnt look to hard.
Thanks!
Offline
That is just what i did for the rear lower control arm mount, and I used that same sketch when installing everything. If i remember right there was one measurement that was off, so just measur everything from your doner parts. It was a very srtaight forward swap, with out a dout the hardest part was getting all the old front suspension parts and brakets off and out of the way.
The rear frame cut was not bad either, with the rear end swap, I had about 3" between the axle housing and the frame, and i wanted more, so I took a 6" piece of schedule 40 steel pipe and cut the frame another 3", welded the section of pie in and then boxed about 12"-14" of the frame.
Offline
djhenderlong wrote:
Thanks for the help. I emagine those flags are chamber adjusters correct?
The flags are on the bolt heads to keep you from being able to adjust the camber. Remove them and then the bolts can move within the slot that is already there.
Offline
Makes me want to buy and old ford truck and get to work.
Steve69
Offline
Steve69 wrote:
Makes me want to buy and old ford truck and get to work.
Steve69
I spent nearly 5 months looking for a bump side (1967-1972) Ford F-100 short bed before I finally located a decent one nearly 80-miles from where I live.
I have a 2003 Crown vic front end, Thunderbird Super Coupe IRS rear end assembly & a 4R70W transmission sitting in the shop waiting for the time I get to the point of installing them. In the mean time, I drive the truck to work several times a month and sometimes on the weekend.
This was before I installed my stylish dog-dish hubcaps.
...photo after I just got home with the Crown Vic & Thunderbird Super Coupe IRS. ...these items have been pressure washed since these photos were taken and look a lot better now.
Offline
Sweet Ultrastang!
Offline
Steve69 wrote:
Sweet Ultrastang!
Thanks. Obviously, you aren't going to get a 44-year old truck (well, 42-years old when I bought it) that doesn't have something wrong with it but, considering trucks generally live a much harder life than a car, it's amazing that it's in as good of shape as it is.
My first preference for body color was either blue or white. However, there were a lot of ugly factory colors on these trucks back then. Unfortunately, most of the trucks you find will be one of those ugly colors and not the color of your choice. The first major problem, aside from ugly paint colors, would be finding a truck that's not eaten up with rust. I looked at a BUNCH of trucks in my 5-month search and most were good for nothing other than for some parts.
I wasn't crazy about the Norway Green (that can be changed) but the primary reason for buying this particular '69 F-100 was because there's virtually no rust in it.
I was also hoping to find a truck with a 302 in it. --the 302 was not availble in the 5th generation trucks (1967-1972) until mid-year 1969. My truck is a '69-1/2, but it has the 240 inline six in it with a C-4. The only other (factory) engine choices in these trucks was; 300 six-cylinder, 352 (in 1967), 302 (beginning mid-year 1969), a 360 or 390 engine.
My first vehicle was a 1968 Mustang coupe that I had bought in 1982. 31-years later, I still own it. However, the very first vehicle I learned to drive was my dad's red & white '68 F-100 Ranger (upgraded with '70 model Ranger interior & exterior trim, in photos immediatey below). He had bought it from my uncle when I was about 6-years old (around 1974). He sold it when I was 22 (1988). --I wasn't very happy about that --even less happy to hear from a friend that the son of the guy that bought my dad's truck wrecked it and totalled it out.
Some other random photos of my Ranger;
Last edited by ultrastang (5/02/2013 8:54 PM)
Offline
Still working on the f100... I'm wondering how you 03- crownvic guys did the VAP system on the power steering rack. Its basicly an actuator that comands how much assist to use based on speed.
My new rack doesnt have a VAP solinoid. I have no donor solinoid either.
Does anyone know if the solinoid/actuator needs to be fully open or fully closed for max assist? I could just make a plug that fits if thats the case.
Thanks,
David H.
Offline
I really like the idea of the crown vic suspension in these trucks. especially with the irs would make an awesome daily driver.
Offline
djhenderlong wrote:
Still working on the f100... I'm wondering how you 03- crownvic guys did the VAP system on the power steering rack. Its basicly an actuator that comands how much assist to use based on speed.
My new rack doesnt have a VAP solinoid. I have no donor solinoid either.
Does anyone know if the solinoid/actuator needs to be fully open or fully closed for max assist? I could just make a plug that fits if thats the case.
Thanks,
David H.
I have wondered about the variable assist as well, but have never seen a word mentioned about it. I plan to just drive mine and not worry about that part. Hopefully I don't HAVE to worry about it!
Offline
ultrastang. did you have any trouble with the oil pan putting the inline 6 in? my 15 year old is doing a 69 ranger with the crown vic and a 300 6 cylinder and i dont want him to waste his money on the swap if it wont work right.
thanks
Offline
49leadsled wrote:
ultrastang. did you have any trouble with the oil pan putting the inline 6 in? my 15 year old is doing a 69 ranger with the crown vic and a 300 6 cylinder and i dont want him to waste his money on the swap if it wont work right.
thanks
This is a pretty old thread. ....but since you asked.... I bought the '03 CV front suspension and the '90 Thunderbird IRS not long after I bought my truck in 2011. The suspensions sat tucked away for a while and my plan changed along the way. My truck is no show queen and there's still a lot left to do on it but, as time went on, I just couldn't bring myself to cut up my Ranger's frame to install the CV/T-Bird IRS. If the truck was just a base model or a plain Custom, it might have been different.
I installed the front discs/suspension from a '77 F100 and added a 1-1/8" front swaybar from a '78 F250 Camper Special and a 1-1/8" rear swaybar from a '79 Bronco. Eventually, I'll install DJM lowering beams and rear shackles.
As my 1969 F100 Ranger currently stands.
Last edited by ultrastang (5/07/2017 11:24 AM)
Offline
ya i knew it was old but it was worth a shot. thanks for getting back to me any how. cant find any one who has done this. just a bunch of people asking why i would do this lol. any how thank you for your time
clint
Offline
I just completed another CV install on a 1954 F100. What would you pike to know?
Offline
well, im just curious if a 300 inline six cylinder oil pan will clear in a cv kmember. my boy wants to do a k member in his truck but it has a real neat 6 in it and he wants to keep it. it has a blow through holley 4brl, small turbo, offy intake, cam and custom header.
Offline
It will have to have a rear sump pan on it or some really tall motor mounts.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |