I'm in the middle of asking my self that to I know I want it more around down cruse and highway gearing no real strip for me. I'm also wanting to upgrade my trans to a newer AODE trans from
A newer mustang but that's in the future.

Terry, if you want, you can use this to play around with what you've got, and what you WILL have, so you get an idea of what to expect.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

It seems complicated, but when you realize you can click on a lot of things and get drop downs (like choosing the transmission you want) it's not so bad.

Another person much wiser than me has said that you want at least around a 10:1 final drive ratio in first gear, if you're going to drag race.  I'm not a pro drag racer or anything, so I can't swear to that.

I do know that my car gets really good economy around 2200 rpms, so if your engine is similar, having your final drive ratio putting the RPMs there at the speed you drive (on the highway in 4th gear) would probably make sense.

And last thing - in looking at limited-slip and locking rear gears, anything that really locks up will tend to hurt your handling by making you understeer.  (the inside tire is always going to have full traction, and will want to make you go straight, under throttle)

My thought is that for drag racing, a locking rear gear setup would be good, but for daily driver or curves, you'd want maybe an Auburn, or original style Ford setup.  I think the clutches on the Auburn rear ends are said to wear longer before they require maintenance.

If you have deep pockets, the Torsen rear gears look AWESOME, but I don't know if they even make them for an 8" Ford.

 

Terry;

Lots of good info on the web about how to setup the 8" and 9" Ford gears.  I did one years ago and it worked fine.  Since then I have had two different sets of 3.55 gears set up by supposed pros for our 66 and both howled like a mashed cat.  I also drove a friends 73 Vert to the Tomball bash and it had a 8" that was professionally set up, I think...also howling all the way there and back.

If you you borrow a dial indicater and mag stand from me, along with my beam type inch pound torqure wrench I think you could set them up as good as a pro.  Just take your time and don't be afraid to do it over if you go too far on the crush sleeve...or use shims and a solid sleeve like Rudi suggests.

I think the hardest part is holding down the pinion housing while putting the torque to it. The rest just requires the patience to get it right. 

Read the instructions a couple of times, borrow the tools and dive in.  You may need to have the bearings pressed off/on but the setup you can do your self and probably take the time to do it right.

Or...you can go to the 8.8.  Other than all the cutting, welding, and straightning, I'm told they are easier to set up and are a bit more forgiving.  I'm about to find out.

BB

Terry,

Should you decide to let some pros handle it, there is a group called "Axle Boys" over in St. Peters, MO that really knows their stuff.  Worth the drive.  They deal primarily with Jeeps and off road vehicles.  It's a fun store to shop at.  I had an 8" set up with a "trac lock" third member.  Went with 4.11 gears, but I have a pretty wide RPM band to play with.  Most people wouldn't like it.  They used a center made by Auburn.  It's pretty much silent, never binds or clunks, so the only way you know it's working is to leave two stripes instead of one. (You have to check these things once in a while...)  Let me know if you need their number. Actually, I'm certain it's on the website.  It was worth it to me to know it was done right.  I've set one up with the paste and dial indicater, and it worked out OK.  Maybe I was just feeling lazy at the time, but I was pleased with the Axle Boys.

http://axleboy.com

Thanks Lance!  I may call them.  I'm not sure I want to try this change