It is very easy to make one of those tools like that from a 3/8" fine thread bolt.   If you have a lathe, it is REALLY EASY, but it can be done with a hand file or a small grinder.  It doesn't have to be pretty or perfect to do the job.  Just grind the end of the bolt until it resembles the end of the switch that screws in there.

Or, to avoid using the tool (I have never used one) be sure the master cylinder is bench bled completely, then hook it up to the car system.  Bleed RR first, then LR, then RF, then LF.  When you bleed the brakes, make long easy strokes on the pedal and it should work without tripping the valve.  You can even loosen a front bleeder until you get the rears done if you are having trouble.

Another method is to gravity bleed.  After mc is bench bled, hook it up and fill it with fluid, then open both rear bleeders and let gravity take its course.  Watch the mc so it doesn't run dry.  Once you are getting fluid from each rear wheel cylinder, close them and start bleeding procedure as above, starting with RR wheel.

Thanks for the Info, I will try all those steps once I have the new MC delivered, but since the switch is already tripped how do I re center it again ??

MustangSteve wrote:

It is very easy to make one of those tools like that from a 3/8" fine thread bolt.   If you have a lathe, it is REALLY EASY, but it can be done with a hand file or a small grinder.  It doesn't have to be pretty or perfect to do the job.  Just grind the end of the bolt until it resembles the end of the switch that screws in there.

Or, to avoid using the tool (I have never used one) be sure the master cylinder is bench bled completely, then hook it up to the car system.  Bleed RR first, then LR, then RF, then LF.  When you bleed the brakes, make long easy strokes on the pedal and it should work without tripping the valve.  You can even loosen a front bleeder until you get the rears done if you are having trouble.

Another method is to gravity bleed.  After mc is bench bled, hook it up and fill it with fluid, then open both rear bleeders and let gravity take its course.  Watch the mc so it doesn't run dry.  Once you are getting fluid from each rear wheel cylinder, close them and start bleeding procedure as above, starting with RR wheel.

Thank you I really appreciate all the great input, so let me get this straight, basically if the vave shifted towards the rear (Firewall side) I bleed the front to make it move forward ? and also when Removing the old MC do I need to disconnent the Push Rod from the Pedal under the dash or will the MC come out without the Rod attached.
Thank you

MustangSteve wrote:

Now that you have rebuilt the switch, you should be able to recenter it with line pressure.  Just bleed the brakes on the side it shifted towards to put pressure on it to move it back to center.  You can look in the hole where the switch goes to see which direction it is tripped.

Just wanted to follow up and say Thanks, the tool idea it worked great.

Nilester wrote:

I really appreciate the, ordered it and the rebuild kit as well, Now how to get the switch back to center to insert the tool...

Xargon321 wrote:

This nifty little tool right here can do it it holds the valve in place while you bleed it it goes where the light switch threads into on the Block.

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/brake-valve-tool