If you will use a tight radius forming tool (tube bender) you can get alot more room as the tubes come out of the mc.  That should give you plenty of clearance. Your tubes will look more professional if you use a tight radius bender rather than hanf-formed large, uneven radius bends.  A stainless shield would not hurt. When you redo the brake lines, install some of that spring-looking tubing wrap on the brake lines (fedhill.com) to act as a heat sink. It will act like radiator fins to pull heat away from the tube.

I would not be too concerned about the booster.   I ran a larger diameter booster with the same headers for many years with mo problems.

I suppose I waisted money on the tubing bender if the bends look hand formed. The smallest radius bender I could find was 1". I'll try to get some tighter bends in a path that provides more clearance. Thanks guys.

Bob

Rudi's method also works.  It is better for larger socket sizes, but the radius you need is something along the size of a 5/8" socket, and it also works for that if you are careful.  Practice with some scrap tubing.  Try to stretch the tubing as you bend it around the socket.

I hate the color but that cuneiform green tubing is easiest to bend.  It can be painted.  I have used that chrome paint on it with pretty good results.  It comes out looking silver, but better silver than silver paint comes out.

I bent mine around a piece of 1" pipe.