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I purchased a '65 coupe that was someone else's project car. The PO had plans to change it from an I-6 to V-8 power so it has aftermarket discs on the front and 5-bolt hubs all around. The car came with a new dual-bowl master cylinder and proportioning valve. I installed everything, adjusted rear drums and bled the system. It seems to me there is insufficient brake pedal travel. If I read the manual correctly there should be about 6.5 inches of travel (measured where, I have no idea). My pedal is only about 4 inches from the floor to start with.
I am not getting good pressure. I wonder if the push rod to the master cylinder is the correct length...or if it matters. Any insight will be appreciated. Thank you.
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Do you have manual brakes (no booster)?
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insufficient brake pedal travel
Does that mean the pedal travels too far before anything happens? If it has a booter, the output shaft is probably adjusted too short between the booster and master cylinder.
If it is a manual system, there could be air in the system, the mc bore might be too small, a too-short rod might be in there, or the rear brakes may need tightening up. Tighten them until they will not turn at all then back off ten clicks. Or, the rear drums might be oversized, causing the hydraulic pressure to have to bend the rear shoes to fit the drum before it can begin applying the front brakes.
Also, see if the calipers are on the wrong side of the car. See my Granada brake installation page for a picture of right vs wrong. Link is in forum title area.
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Its most likely the mc has too small a bore i fought this for almost two years until i increased the bore from 3/4 to 1 1/8 bingo problem solved. Disc brakes require much more fluid to function and if the pedal goes down even feeling hard it still won't stop the car the way it should.
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It is a manual brake system, dual bowls; no booster. As I said, I bought someone else's project in progress but all the components seem to be high quality and made specifically for a Mustang. What I meant by insufficient pedal travel is...the pedal cannot physically travel more than about four inches before it bottoms out on the floor. The pedal does not come up more than about 4 inches off the floor. I suspect the actuating rod to the MC is too short...not sure how to get it out of the cylinder to put in a longer one or make modifications. Thanks for all your input.
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wagonerkl wrote:
It is a manual brake system, dual bowls; no booster. As I said, I bought someone else's project in progress but all the components seem to be high quality and made specifically for a Mustang. What I meant by insufficient pedal travel is...the pedal cannot physically travel more than about four inches before it bottoms out on the floor. The pedal does not come up more than about 4 inches off the floor. I suspect the actuating rod to the MC is too short...not sure how to get it out of the cylinder to put in a longer one or make modifications. Thanks for all your input.
See my Granada brake installation page. There is a picture on there showing one way to get that rod out.
Pedal should not travel more than 2" total with a disc/drum system properly installed and bled. Lots of times it is because the rear brakes are not adjusted tight enough. Rod should be theh original to work best. I think it is 6.25" long overall. Can verify that if you need. With a manual brake system, do not use smaller than 15/16" bore master cylinder.
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Well, I do still have the original rod from the single bowl master cylinder. The rear drums were run out until the wheels locked up and then backed off until they would turn so I don't think that is the issue. I wonder if it is possible to pull that rod out of the MC though the firewall while it is still mouinted in the car?? Hate to disconnect eveything to put it in a bench vice. Thank you for the help I will let the forum know what I discover.
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If you can get a pry bar through the eye of that rod, and pry against something solid, like the brake pedal mounting shaft, you MIGHT be able to pull out the rod. Just depends on how bad it wants you to NOT pull it out of there!
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I finally had to remove the MC again and use a slide hammer to get the rod to let go. It was about an inch shorter than the original. When I swapped the original rod in, the pedal height came right up even with the clutch. Looks right and so far appears to work correctly. I need to get a second person to try turning the wheels while I apply the brakes to be certain the brakes are engaging.
To re-cap, the original rod was slightly over 6"end to end. What came with the MC was slightly over 5" resulting in the pedal only coming off the floor about 4 inches. Thank you all for the help.
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Make sure to have a pedal stop to prevent pushrod from falling out of master cylinder if pedal is lifted...
Howard
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