Considering that I understand that factory ammeters barely deflected in normal use, I would say it is not normal.  Ford had some goofy shortcut method to wire those that probably saved them the cost of 4 feet of wire and as a result kinda made them worthless.

Thanks John for saying it because I was thinking the same thing.

One other thought I had was to disconnect the Amp meter all together. At least one side or the other. This may help find a bad connection some where. If current flow can't go through the amp meter it will need to find another path. Things may quit working but the you could start looking for a bad connection. The small red wire on the solenoid should go to the amp meter. Lift it, tape it up and see what happens.

One other thing, is the car running when this happens.

Last edited by wsinsle (8/13/2014 5:19 PM)

rtmjr:

Sorry, Not trying to be rude. trying to trouble shoot a intermittent problem sitting in the drive way is tough. Over the internet makes it much harder. Anyone trying to make a suggestion needs all the info they can get. One other thing that would help would be to keep this in one post. Each time you get more info, add it to the same post. Don't start a new one. That way everyone trying to help can look back through one post to see what you have done.

Believe me, all of your help is much appreciated, and I do try EVERYTHING that I can handle. Just as a quick refresher, 68 289, c-4, pertronix one. Ammeter gauge starts acting up, open the door, courtesy lights go on, gauge swings all the way left, towards D side, but only sometimes. Then a no start issue, have to jump solenoid to start - again only sometimes. Also have a old school Chapman, ignition interrupt lock, disconnected that also Changed starter switch, solenoid, light switch, new harness on driver side going to trunk, new harness on passenger side going to trunk, ( was going to change them any way. Then rhe cigarette lighter issue , push it in, ammeter needle swings hard left. I know the whole thing sounds like a ground issue, but man! Checked all of the grounds I could find. If it would stay broke, I could find it, but it goes back n forth. Not putting anything new in until I find this. Again, wiring is not ny strong suite, so forgive me if I sound  erratic at times. It scares me, almost fried my 67 years ago. Going to a specialist this morning ($ ca- ching$) , will keep you informed. Again, thanx for all the input and support!

Last edited by rtmjr13@optonline.net (8/16/2014 4:34 AM)

rtmjr13@optonline.net wrote:

Finally found the problems! One broken wire, and two bad connections. Behind the dash, the green wire with orange tracer was just barely making contact inside a crimp connector. The other problem was at the solenoid. The wire going to the small front push on stud had to be replaced. And lastly the front driver side parking light, the wires inside the sleeve were all messed up because the shrink tube around them had split and all kinds of muck got in there. Thanx again for everyone's input.

AAAAAAAAAAye!! Fugedabodit!
6s6
 

Didn't have to use the specialist! I just started digging around, pulling this tugging that etc. Then went to my regular mechanic-all I had to do was feed him. He went crazy with the test light, and meter. Glad it's over though. Here is a question though. In your opinion, what is the best way to connect two wires? My mechanic and his partner were arguing over it. There is the solder, the barrel tube crimp, and those little blue snap things you lay the wire in. And of course the ole twist n tape. Which one is preferred?

Last edited by rtmjr13@optonline.net (8/20/2014 4:10 PM)

I solder and heat shrink everything that goes on my car. I don't use RTV for weatherproofing. Type 2 or 3 heat shrink has an adhesive layer on the inside that seals the heatshrink. There is a very vocal group that believes that all automotive connections should always be crimped and never soldered. Their arguement is that a proper crimp will fuse the strands of wire and the connector into one piece which is easier to create than a good solder joint. They neglect to say that a crimper capable of such fusion crimping costs hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. Makes me wonder if they make up all their wiring for their hot rods at work, using the military grade crimpers their defence contractor employers have bought. As Bullerbirdman states you can learn to solder adequately well with practice. The soldering equipment costs a fraction of what a fusion crimper costs.