Well since I totalled the mustang last friday,  I had time to finally get the hood open on it.

Took some pics.   I  have to figure out what is missing etc and where everything goes.


What goes in that hole under the waterneck? Is that for a water temp sending unit?   Is that an oil sending switch to the left of the chrome oil filter? I also don't see a fuel pump.  It looks like a vacuum port on that intake, is that for the distributor vacuum advance?   It looks like the line for fuel is not connected to the carbs.  The gas tank is laying in the trunk and not connected. 


Belts are missing, and the generator is missing, so I have to get an alternator.  Radiator is in  my shed. The distributor was inside the car.  Have to figure out how to put that back in there.   I don't see any wiper motor, or any brake parts at all.  Also trying to figure out the heater hose and why it goes in and out of the firewall so many times.


It loooks like there is a bolt and hold down clamp for the distributor. There are also two bolts that I'm assuming is for the coil that is missing too.  There is also a yellow spout coming out the top of the cylinder head, i'm assuming that a hose connects that to the black port on the firewall for the heater.  And assuming that hanging heater hose connects to the water pump on the passenger side.


I think that is a aftermarket intake manifold, fenton brand,  with 2 Ford carburetors on it. I don't think it was ever hooked up because the throttle linkage doesnt reach the carb nipples, and there is no linkage connecting the carbs together.  The original single carb intake is inside the car.  I tried manipulating the carbs by hand, and they don't seem to move smoothly, they bind up in places, and just don't seem to work right. I'm assuming these Ford carbs are Holleys?

 

Those are Holley 94's and only take 2psi of fuel pressure.
You are missing a stud in the right head below the thermostat. Those are factory Ford heads from the 90hp car version of the 239. The two bolts on the left head are for the coil bracket. The nipple coming off of the left head is for the heater. There is some heater hose magic going on in that car!

You have the car pulleys on the water pumps that has one belt for the two water pumps and fan and one belt for the generator. This is good. get one belt and don't even bother with a generator or alternator to get it running. the coil is going to pull less than 1 amp per 1k rpm so you can run a long time without having to recharge the battery. The oil filter is a bypass filter, so either block off the feed or replace the unit when you go to start it up. The oil sending unit will be on the back of the block behind the filter. The sending unit on the head is a temp sensor. Fuel pump would be driven off of the cam at the back of the intake manifold. There is a block-off plate mounted behind the back carb...this is where you would put your pump. It is driven like a SBC off of a cam lobe.

I can tell that it was never hooked up since you have the dual carb intake and the factory throtle linkage is still in place. You will need a simple link to tie the throtle plates together. you can do it with some 10-32 rod ends and a short link between them. The holley 94's have a cast iron base and it has a tendancy to sieze up, and the throtle plate sometimes will wear down and cause some weird vacuum leaks. you can buy new bases for fairly cheap, and even totally new carbs from edelbrock. There is also a knock-off Stromberg carb that was used on the earlier Fords, but the holley 94 is much better in my opinion.

The wiper motors are vacuum driven, the port on the intake should go to them. The brakes are on the frame under the car, no vacuum assist back then, but it can be added.

To get this running, I would pull the heads. it is only 24 bolts per side and they come right off. head gaskets are not cheap, but the can be reused if you have the copper ones. they will need to be shelac'ed when you put it back together. I like to use "Indian copper head gasket sealer and adhesive". Pull the heads and check the bores and valves. turn the thing over and make sure they go up and down. There is no oil in the heads so you can even use the starter if you want without making a mess. The intake does not need to come off unless you have a stuck valve. Spoiler alert: you will have several stuck valves. they have iron guides and steel valves, they will be stuck together since they were new and assembled. An old engine with a lot of gunk may not be stuck, but I think cleanliness will work against you on this one. If they are stuck, tun the engine over until the cam lobe moves away from the valve stem. pull the valve guide retaining horseshoe and the valve, guide, spring and retainer will come out in one piece. clean it up and stick it back in. They make a special crow bar to do this, it is about three feet long and has a little foot on it to grab the guide and pull it down a bit. PM me if you want a picture of what it looks like and where to buy it.

Lots to do, but you are trying to resurrect an engine that has hibernated since before some of our classic cars were made. For the record, I am working on making a motorcycle with a flathead ford 8 in it, so I have a pile of parts from several engines in my garage. let me know if you need pictures of any particular part or special tools.

BobN

Last edited by BobN (8/28/2014 9:03 PM)

Thanks everyone for the help.

BobN, thanks for the info.  I will look into the edelbrock carb Holly 94s, or maybe look into getting a rebuild kit for the carb. I wonder how hard it will be to rebuild that carb? I was contemplating going back to one carb.  I was hoping one of the carbs would work, but I won't get that lucky.

Would you stick with a stock fuel pump or go with an electric fuel pump?

"You are missing a stud in the right head below the thermostat. Those are factory Ford heads from the 90hp car version of the 239"   OK. I will look for a head bolt in the many bucket of parts I got, maybe I can use that bolt for a ground strap to firewall?  .

"The two bolts on the left head are for the coil bracket."  Ok i will get a stock 66 mustang coil, thats 12 volts and that should fit there.

" The nipple coming off of the left head is for the heater."  Ok, i wil bypass that for now and run a hose from that nipple to the water pump for testing. And figure out the heater hose routing later.  IF you have a diagram on how that is supposed to go that would be great.

"There is some heater hose magic going on in that car!".  Ok, yeah I don't know why it does that.

"You have the car pulleys on the water pumps that has one belt for the two water pumps and fan and one belt for the generator. This is good. get one belt and don't even bother with a generator or alternator to get it running. the coil is going to pull less than 1 amp per 1k rpm so you can run a long time without having to recharge the battery."   Well... I think i have a different setup, I think one belt is for one of the waterpumps and fan, and the other belt is for the other waterpump and generator.

"The oil filter is a bypass filter, so either block off the feed or replace the unit when you go to start it up."    I will look into changing the oil and filter.  That filter has a chrome housing that is flaking in places but woudl look nice rechromed.

"The oil sending unit will be on the back of the block behind the filter."   Ok, thanks I didn't notice that before.  I will look again.  

"The sending unit on the head is a temp sensor."   This is the unit on the driver side correct?  Nice.

"Fuel pump would be driven off of the cam at the back of the intake manifold. There is a block-off plate mounted behind the back carb...this is where you would put your pump. It is driven like a SBC off of a cam lobe."    Ok. I saw a block plate there, but I have an exploded view of camshaft and it looks like there is a gear on the end of the camshaft and not a lobe.  I will look for the fuel pump in the bucket of parts too.  It would make sense that its a lobe, since the fuel pump looks like there is supposed to be a rod that goes up and down.

"I can tell that it was never hooked up since you have the dual carb intake and the factory throtle linkage is still in place. You will need a simple link to tie the throtle plates together. you can do it with some 10-32 rod ends and a short link between them. The holley 94's have a cast iron base and it has a tendancy to sieze up, and the throtle plate sometimes will wear down and cause some weird vacuum leaks. you can buy new bases for fairly cheap, and even totally new carbs from edelbrock."  - I'm wondering if I should just go with a single carb and not a duel carb setup.  Nof familiar with those rods that connect them together.  Plus tinkering with one carb for idle mixture, idle speed, choke, etc is enough for me to deal with and add a 2nd carb to the mix.  LOL.

"There is also a knock-off Stromberg carb that was used on the earlier Fords, but the holley 94 is much better in my opinion."    I will stick the Holley 94, and maybe either just send one back to get rebuilt, or try to rebuild one myself, and then as last resort, buy new edelbrock.

"The wiper motors are vacuum driven, the port on the intake should go to them. "   If that is for the wiper motor, where does the distributor vacuum hooke up to?  Is there a port on the carb for it?  Maybe i should put a vacuum tree there so that I can hook up more things in the future?

"The brakes are on the frame under the car, no vacuum assist back then, but it can be added."  Wow didn't even look under there yet.  Strange not to see a master cylinder under the hood.  Is there any options to adding modern brakes to this car? 

"To get this running, I would pull the heads. it is only 24 bolts per side and they come right off. head gaskets are not cheap, but the can be reused if you have the copper ones. they will need to be shelac'ed when you put it back together. I like to use "Indian copper head gasket sealer and adhesive". - Question, what do you mean by Shellac the head gaskets? LOL.  Edelbrock sells head gaskets for this car, can I just use those without "shellac"?  

"Pull the heads and check the bores and valves. turn the thing over and make sure they go up and down. There is no oil in the heads so you can even use the starter if you want without making a mess. The intake does not need to come off unless you have a stuck valve. Spoiler alert: you will have several stuck valves. they have iron guides and steel valves, they will be stuck together since they were new and assembled. An old engine with a lot of gunk may not be stuck, but I think cleanliness will work against you on this one. If they are stuck, tun the engine over until the cam lobe moves away from the valve stem. pull the valve guide retaining horseshoe and the valve, guide, spring and retainer will come out in one piece. clean it up and stick it back in. They make a special crow bar to do this, it is about three feet long and has a little foot on it to grab the guide and pull it down a bit. PM me if you want a picture of what it looks like and where to buy it."   I was going to pull the plugs, pour in Marvel mystery oil, let sit for a day, drain oil and replenish oil, t and try to turn motor over by hand.  I will need to find TDC for #1 piston anyway in order to put the distributor back in. Then put new plugs in it.

BobN,  thanks for all the info .  Got alot of labor to  do this labor day weekend on it. 

A good way to break those loose is some
ATF down each cylinder.  Take the plugs out pour some in.  Then remove the gas line to the fuel pump replace with new only place it into a gallon or so of gas. The on the fuel pump remove and clean it then reinstall if it checks out.  You maybe will want to get some berrymans carb cleaner the gallon of it you can soak the pump carb and misc pieces in it to clean them.  I use he berrymans on restoring obsolete mikuni carbs for vintage yamahas and Hondas it works like a charm. There engine clean works awesome. I would only ever use berrymans or bgk42 from napa.  I've followed these steps on the flat heads before it usually works good. Those flat heads are known for the block cracking.  I know a guy who wanted one in his model a and he went threw four flat heads just to get a good block. I'd double check that before pursuing anything.