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I am in the middle of changing manual drum brakes to power disk/ drum on a 1969 Mach 1 when the thought accured to me, " Why does the pedal need to be changed?" Besides the piviot point being different, it looks as if the booster rod would fit on the manual pedal, so, what would happen if you hooked up the new power booster to the old manual pedal?
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Cullen01 wrote:
I am in the middle of changing manual drum brakes to power disk/ drum on a 1969 Mach 1 when the thought accured to me, " Why does the pedal need to be changed?" Besides the piviot point being different, it looks as if the booster rod would fit on the manual pedal, so, what would happen if you hooked up the new power booster to the old manual pedal?
A typical manual brake pedal ratio is around 6:1. A typical power brake pedal ratio is around 4:1(manual pedal ratio would have higher mechanical advantage). The added assist of the booster can easily make the brakes too sensitive if left at the manual pedal ratio.
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I can understand the lever advantage, but what is wrong with having too much senisitvity in the brakes?
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Remember drivers training class when the inexperienced drivers would stab the brake pedal and send everyone up against the windshield? That is what power braakes with a manual pedal are like.
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Brakes will be unpredictable and will tend to grab all of a sudden, rather than having controlled stopping. You are not the first to try doing this. I did it in 1975. It was on a 70 Mustang. I put the booster in and then lengthened the booster rod so it would reach the pedal. (It is too short for the manual pedal). The brakes were overly sensitive, but I did not know there was any other way to do it. Whoever owned that car when it needed a booster replacement probably cussed me pretty good because they too would have to weld an extension in the booster rod.
You are fortunate enough to know the correct way to do the job.
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I have the correct pedal but just curious. Can one remove the clutch pedal spring to change the brake pedal, or does the whole assembly HAVE to come out of the car?
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I can't say for sure on a '69 Mustang but, in '87, I changed my '68 Mustang from a C-4 automatic to a Top-Loader 4-spd.
I had to take the pedal support loose to get the clutch pedal into the hanger --there wasn't enough room to the left to slide the clutch pedal in with the pedal support bolted in. You may have to do the same to remove your manual brake pedal.
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That's kinda what I figured, thanks Ultrastang.
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I also did this back in the '70s. I added power discs to my '69. I got everthing from a Fairlane, discs, spindles, prop valve and booster. I started the job and had to have the local gas station finish. they couldn't understand why someone would do this. They heated up the manual pedal and bent it. I think now that the booster was shot because the the pedal was very light and not firm. I managed to not run into anything and do serious damage. Now we have the Internet and Mustang Steve to protect us from ourselves. Happy Labor Day and don't get arrested.
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I did that on my 69 Mustang along with the 5.0 booster. Mine works well but the pedal is high also. Mustang Steve sell a booster and Pedal Assy that works together. At some point Im going to go that route.
Steve69
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