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8/31/2014 2:23 PM  #1


Wiring help

The previous owner did some rewiring to my car (67, 289,auto). Pic is attached but here is what appears to be going on. Power from harness (orange wire) come to a ballast resistor. From that post the choke (red wire) gets power and the distributed (other red wire).   On the other side of the ballast resistor, the yellow wire goes to the positive side of the coil.

My plan is to first clean up all the connectors. Then move the choke wire (probably make it 16 guage with a 10 fuse) to get power from alternator.  Not sure that to do with the rest. I do plan to change the positive coil wire to a 16 guage I think the one on now is the wrong size.

The coil says it needs a ballast but I don't see one in the wiring diagram. And from the wiring diagram it looks like oil pressure, temp guage and positive side of coil all should get power from the same connector but that's gone.  Not sure if just that part of the harness would be available by itself. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Brian

Last edited by Briangillen (8/31/2014 4:06 PM)

 

9/01/2014 5:48 AM  #2


Re: Wiring help

There isn't really anything wrong with what you have if everything works.  Personally I'd just tidy up the routing a bit so it looks a little more "organized" but it's not necessary to change anything.

The coil ballast in the factory harness is a length of resistor wire that normally resides under the dash (it's pink).

If you have factory gauges, there is a voltage regulator that normally resides on the back of the instrument cluster that feeds one side of each gauge.  The other side of the gauge goes to the sender.  If you put a voltmeter on the wire that goes on the sender you should see a pulsing voltage or a 5 volt level, depending on what meter you have and what regulator is in the car.

Last edited by John Ha (9/01/2014 5:51 AM)


Founding Member of the Perpetually Bewildered Society
 

9/01/2014 6:01 AM  #3


Re: Wiring help

I would recommend you keep the choke to a switched power source. If you would hook it to the alternator it would always be on.

 

9/01/2014 7:46 AM  #4


Re: Wiring help

MachTJ wrote:

I would recommend you keep the choke to a switched power source. If you would hook it to the alternator it would always be on.

Not if it were connected to the switched source from the ign. switch.  Most alts have a steady source for sensing and a switched source for exciter voltage.

BB


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 

9/02/2014 3:20 AM  #5


Re: Wiring help

You know john , you may be right. I've gotten myself into trouble fixing things that weren't broke. I think I'll just tidy it up and leave it be.

     Thread Starter
 

9/02/2014 9:54 AM  #6


Re: Wiring help

MachTJ wrote:

I would recommend you keep the choke to a switched power source. If you would hook it to the alternator it would always be on.

The factory wired the choke to the S terminal on the alternator.  The S terminal will only output voltage (AC in this case) when the engine is actually running.  The advantage of this is that if the car stalls when left to warm up, the choke will not continue opening as it would if it were connected to a switched source.  The choke also can't be forced to open if the key is left in the run position with the car not running.

John

 

9/02/2014 4:39 PM  #7


Re: Wiring help

The Stator terminal is the best choice.
     Howard

 

Board footera


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