| ||
| Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
The previous owner did some rewiring to my car (67, 289,auto). Pic is attached but here is what appears to be going on. Power from harness (orange wire) come to a ballast resistor. From that post the choke (red wire) gets power and the distributed (other red wire). On the other side of the ballast resistor, the yellow wire goes to the positive side of the coil.
My plan is to first clean up all the connectors. Then move the choke wire (probably make it 16 guage with a 10 fuse) to get power from alternator. Not sure that to do with the rest. I do plan to change the positive coil wire to a 16 guage I think the one on now is the wrong size.
The coil says it needs a ballast but I don't see one in the wiring diagram. And from the wiring diagram it looks like oil pressure, temp guage and positive side of coil all should get power from the same connector but that's gone. Not sure if just that part of the harness would be available by itself. Any suggestions
would be appreciated. Brian
Last edited by Briangillen (8/31/2014 4:06 PM)
Offline

There isn't really anything wrong with what you have if everything works. Personally I'd just tidy up the routing a bit so it looks a little more "organized" but it's not necessary to change anything.
The coil ballast in the factory harness is a length of resistor wire that normally resides under the dash (it's pink).
If you have factory gauges, there is a voltage regulator that normally resides on the back of the instrument cluster that feeds one side of each gauge. The other side of the gauge goes to the sender. If you put a voltmeter on the wire that goes on the sender you should see a pulsing voltage or a 5 volt level, depending on what meter you have and what regulator is in the car.
Last edited by John Ha (9/01/2014 5:51 AM)
Offline
I would recommend you keep the choke to a switched power source. If you would hook it to the alternator it would always be on.
Offline
MachTJ wrote:
I would recommend you keep the choke to a switched power source. If you would hook it to the alternator it would always be on.
Not if it were connected to the switched source from the ign. switch. Most alts have a steady source for sensing and a switched source for exciter voltage.
BB
Offline
You know john , you may be right. I've gotten myself into trouble fixing things that weren't broke. I think I'll just tidy it up and leave it be.
Offline
MachTJ wrote:
I would recommend you keep the choke to a switched power source. If you would hook it to the alternator it would always be on.
The factory wired the choke to the S terminal on the alternator. The S terminal will only output voltage (AC in this case) when the engine is actually running. The advantage of this is that if the car stalls when left to warm up, the choke will not continue opening as it would if it were connected to a switched source. The choke also can't be forced to open if the key is left in the run position with the car not running.
John
Offline
The Stator terminal is the best choice.
Howard
| REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |