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9/17/2014 12:54 PM  #1


65 FB trunk seal

I'll be replacing the trunk weatherstripping on the 65FB.  Any subtle pitfalls to avoid?

 

9/17/2014 1:44 PM  #2


Re: 65 FB trunk seal

Make sure you really clean the new gasket with a degreaser or something. The new gaskets have a mold releasing agent on them that will prevent the  glue from sticking to them.

 

9/17/2014 1:55 PM  #3


Re: 65 FB trunk seal

TimC wrote:

I'll be replacing the trunk weatherstripping on the 65FB.  Any subtle pitfalls to avoid?

the end gap meets at the trunk lock . the channel goes inward towards the trunk . the flatter side goes on the trunk . . use black weatherstrip glue . . put a pieece of 1 to 1 1/2 inch wide  blue or yellow masking tape every 8 inches to hold it in place after gluing .

 

9/17/2014 9:15 PM  #4


Re: 65 FB trunk seal

If used properly, contact type glue will not need anything to hold it in place after gluing it.  Apply a paper thin layer of the black weatherstrip adhesive to the trunk lid and to the mating surface on the seal.  Let them dy until you can touch the glue without sticking to your finger.  When you touch the two pieces together, they will immediately adhere to one another and will not move ever again.  Hence the name contact cement.

On gaskets that are hard to route or must fit around difficult corners, you can use the tape method to hold it up without glue, then do short sections letting the glue dry and stick together and then move to the next section.

If you try to install a weatherstrip with wet glue, you are going to make a huge mess and it will not stick properly.  A trunk seal is about the easiest one to do.  If it was me, I would remove it and place it upside down on a table to make life easier.  Start in rear center as barnett468 said.  They are usually extra long.  Do not stretch the seal.  As you get back to the starting point, you can scrunch up a little extra length in there to make up for the eventual shrinkage.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

9/17/2014 10:08 PM  #5


Re: 65 FB trunk seal

MustangSteve wrote:

If used properly, contact type glue will not need anything to hold it in place after gluing it.  Apply a paper thin layer of the black weatherstrip adhesive to the trunk lid and to the mating surface on the seal.  Let them dy until you can touch the glue without sticking to your finger.  When you touch the two pieces together, they will immediately adhere to one another and will not move ever again.  Hence the name contact cement.

On gaskets that are hard to route or must fit around difficult corners, you can use the tape method to hold it up without glue, then do short sections letting the glue dry and stick together and then move to the next section.

If you try to install a weatherstrip with wet glue, you are going to make a huge mess and it will not stick properly.  A trunk seal is about the easiest one to do.  If it was me, I would remove it and place it upside down on a table to make life easier.  Start in rear center as barnett468 said.  They are usually extra long.  Do not stretch the seal.  As you get back to the starting point, you can scrunch up a little extra length in there to make up for the eventual shrinkage.

The contact glue works well...sometimes too well, lol. once the gasket is stuck, its stuck...it CAN be removed and repositioned if need be but sometines removing the gasket can remoive a bit of the top layer or your paint.

excess weather strip glue is easily removed with solvent or paint thinner.

if you are only doing the one gasket and want to use contact glue, you can buy a small 2 or 4 oz bottle of it and it will have a brush attached to the inside of the lid. it there is a flammable and non flammable version, buy the flammable one.

 

Last edited by barnett468 (9/17/2014 10:11 PM)

 

Board footera


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