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I am in the process of DIYing Daze subframe connectors, realized that it is based on the same concept of Tinman connector, I then watched the installation video on Tinman's website and was wondering about what everyone is doing with that huge gap on top between connector and gutted subframe? There supposed to be two gaps, one is on top and another one on the side, Tinman's video showed to bend the side of the subframe towards the connector and weld it to close the side gap, but it didn't show anything about the gap on top. How do you guys deal with that gap? I don't think there is enough space to jam a welder tip to weld shut the gap.
Thanks in advance guys..
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There was no gaps when I installed mine. With a plat on both sides the subframe connector was the correct width for the front fraim rail. There was also no top gap because I only removed enough steel off the end of the frame rails to slide in the connector.
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The 2" square tubing has a 1/4" thick plate on one side so it fills the 2-1/4" inside dimension of the floor beam. I am installing tinman connectors, but adding a connector between them and the fron frame rails. There is no gap. The subframe connecors fit tight against the ridges in the floor. I plan to install 3/4" or 1" angle to make the framerails connected to the floor. Picture shows it before the floor beam covers it up. The red square tubing will be plug-welded through the front frame rails in about 20 places, then the floor beam will go over that and get plug-welded to the frame rails and the new subframe parts. I have a jack supporting both subframe connector beams up tight to the floor of the car so they are as tight as possible. The gap between the floor and the red beam will go away when the floor gets plug-welded down flat to the top flanges of the floor beams.
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That looks like a serious reinforcement, I like the idea of never denting the frame rail ever again with that plate extension on bottom. I also love the idea to cover all the gap to the floor, that will sure make it heck a lot more stouter. However, I wasn't quite clear on the explanation, especially how are you going to install the floor gap plate. What is that red square tubing, is that Tinman connector or another extra parts that you incorporate to the install?
I noticed that you have a thread on your connector install, please post more pictures as you make progress with your install I would like to copy it with your permission
do you have a plan to fabricate a crossmember between the connector? That will make it even much stouter I think...
i initially was considering either Daze DIY which is essentially a Tinman, or Maier where everyone says is the stoutest in the market but cost an arm an a leg, but after seeing what you did with your Tinman, I think I'll go that way, looking stock and cheap is always better in my book.
Last edited by Uwiik (5/12/2013 8:29 PM)
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That extension is a 2x2 steel tube I bought at METAL MART. I am considering a crossmember with a driveshaft safety loop near the rear. Also, the rear of the connectors will be beefed up to catch more of the frame rail.
I do not have any issues with you copying the pictures, but please give credit where they came from if you use them somewhere else.
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Excuse my persistent questions, maybe I am just dumb LOL! I still cannot grasp the details. I umderstand the whole concept but I am still left with questions on the details. What exactly does that 2x2 extension do? Extend the connector further down the frame rails or something else? Perhaps if you have more picture of the whole thing, then I can understand better.
i am not going to use the picture anywhere, when I said copy I meant copy what you did on my car
thanks a lot for the help!
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