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So ah couple days ago I (PRIMED),and painted my lower cowl with POR15 .It looked O.K.,there were ah couple bubbles but otherwise acceptable. So yesterday I started to sand off those bubbles so I could reapply to the area, and I ended up pealing ah sheet of paint off about 4"X12"!! So I called the company and they told me that POR15 could only be applied over (BARE METAL) not (PRIMER) !! Todal waste of my time and $$$ . I mean really, whos ever heard of paint that doesn't stick to primer??
Last edited by Derek (4/02/2013 10:45 AM)
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I am sure some people will disagree, but I think a good brand of Epoxy primer over bare metal is all that is needed to have a solid foundation for paint. Too many places like Eastwood and others sell "one step" "no work" rust removers/encapsulators/insert buzzword here snake oils.
I'd get the POR15 off and continue priming prepping.
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Did you paint right over that E-Coat stuff the new cowls and all aftermarket parts are painted in? If you didn't fully take it off or scuff it atleast, POR-15 and even primer won't grab at all
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POR 15 is not really designed as a paint. It is a coating, and one that just happens to be designed to be placed on bare metal, even if there is a bit of rust there. I can tell you from direct experience, if you install the coating per the directions, you cannot get that stuff off with dynamite after it cures. I would never consider painting over POR 15, but I think they say you CAN. To me, it is a rustproofing that is designed to be left as-is. I have received some pedal supports from customers that wanted me to install my ballbearing shaft kit. They had POR 15 on them. I always grind to bare metal before I weld the new parts on. Even with a very aggressive grinding disc, all the grinder does is make the stuff gummy. It takes alot of grinding, every once in a while grinding on a piece of clean steel to clean the wheel, to get that stuff off. Then the area around the welded area gets hot and it all catches fire!
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My new panels were coated in that "EDP" stuff. I scuffed and primed them with (Summit racing) self etching, weld through primer before I applied the POR15. The primer has stayed in tact .It's the POR15 thats pealing off of that..
Last edited by Derek (4/02/2013 2:28 PM)
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I recall reading that, as MS says, POR-15 is to be applied over bare, and preferably rusty, metal. I also read on one of CJ's pages that you must sand EDP prior to over-coating it.
Sorry you're having grief. My plan for the cowl, after the AC is designed, is to sand and prime the EDP, then paint it with some left over dash white I had mixed. Then I will sand and coat the inside of the cowl with Rustolem (alkide enamel IIRC) in a satin black. The flanges will get ground to bare metal and hit with weld through primer.
68Mustang was telling me about a long thin sprayer gizzy that he saw in an Eastwood catalog. Might be the real deal for spraying sealer/protectant/paint into the cowl after it's all put back together. We'll see.
BB
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never did like por 15,i use eastwoods products or rust bullet type apints
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Try priming and then put that rhino-liner paint on it! That's some heavy doody stuff!
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I think POR15 is a great product, hard as a brick when it drys. I used it in the bottom of the drip rails after digging out the shrivled up sealer in there and full of rust, you have to paint over it
Howard
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I used Por-15 in my drip rail that was rusty has not even thought of peeling. might not have preped the metal before hand so it didnt stick like it should
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I have the Eastwood long wand restproofing gizmo. Available to send to someone who wants to try it. The usual you pay the shipping deal.
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Hay C9ZZ I am ready to coat cowl,. could I use your Eastwood wand? jj4051@aol.com
68mustang (Now 687072mustang)
PS Was at Tx & MT bash
Last edited by 687072mustang (4/04/2013 8:01 AM)
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