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Took the Mustang out to drive and and tune the carburetor. Pulled over a few times to adjust the air valve and got it pretty close with no stumble. The last adjustement I went to shut the hood and the hood bent or came un sprug on one side. So near the hindge there's bend in the hood. It seemed to close little hard and it has a nice Bend in it and looks shot. So Im sure that will be $900 job to buy a new hood and color match it to the car. Any suggestions on where to buy a new hood. This hood is 10 years old and repo I bought before I had the car painted. Thanks Steve69
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Steve69 wrote:
Took the Mustang out to drive and and tune the carburetor. Pulled over a few times to adjust the air valve and got it pretty close with no stumble. The last adjustement I went to shut the hood and the hood bent or came un sprug on one side. So near the hindge there's bend in the hood. It seemed to close little hard and it has a nice Bend in it and looks shot. So Im sure that will be $900 job to buy a new hood and color match it to the car. Any suggestions on where to buy a new hood. This hood is 10 years old and repo I bought before I had the car painted. Thanks Steve69
Why don't you post a picture? The paintless dent repair people can sometimes do wonders, even for a crease.
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Steve69 wrote:
Took the Mustang out to drive and and tune the carburetor. Pulled over a few times to adjust the air valve and got it pretty close with no stumble. The last adjustement I went to shut the hood and the hood bent or came un sprug on one side. So near the hindge there's bend in the hood. It seemed to close little hard and it has a nice Bend in it and looks shot. So Im sure that will be $900 job to buy a new hood and color match it to the car. Any suggestions on where to buy a new hood. This hood is 10 years old and repo I bought before I had the car painted. Thanks Steve69
well...what year is it?
drake makes a virtually perfect hood for 65 thru 66.
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barnett468 wrote:
Steve69 wrote:
Took the Mustang out to drive and and tune the carburetor. Pulled over a few times to adjust the air valve and got it pretty close with no stumble. The last adjustement I went to shut the hood and the hood bent or came un sprug on one side. So near the hindge there's bend in the hood. It seemed to close little hard and it has a nice Bend in it and looks shot. So Im sure that will be $900 job to buy a new hood and color match it to the car. Any suggestions on where to buy a new hood. This hood is 10 years old and repo I bought before I had the car painted. Thanks Steve69
well...what year is it? 1969
drake makes a virtually perfect hood for 65 thru 66.
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Steve69 wrote:
barnett468 wrote:
Steve69 wrote:
Took the Mustang out to drive and and tune the carburetor. Pulled over a few times to adjust the air valve and got it pretty close with no stumble. The last adjustement I went to shut the hood and the hood bent or came un sprug on one side. So near the hindge there's bend in the hood. It seemed to close little hard and it has a nice Bend in it and looks shot. So Im sure that will be $900 job to buy a new hood and color match it to the car. Any suggestions on where to buy a new hood. This hood is 10 years old and repo I bought before I had the car painted. Thanks Steve69
well...what year is it? 1969
drake makes a virtually perfect hood for 65 thru 66.
ok, thanks?
exactly how did it get bent?
were the hood hinges really stiff?
if so why?
are they new?
are they chinese?
an original hood should not do that, is your hood a repo?
if it is a repo you can just buy the same brand if you want, dynacorn makes some crummy repo hoods.
if you have a ton of cash buy a mint used orig.
you can still buy ford service hoods but you will need to spend maybe 30 hours on it to make one fit and they are around $1600.00.
i can't judge how bad it is so maybe have a body shop look at it, but in general, bent hoods are hard to fix.
if you do not have extra paint and those old toners are no longer available or you do not have the paint code, they will likely have to repaint the tops of your fenders also.
if you need new hinges, i would buy nos ones but they wil be pricey.
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Last edited by barnett468 (9/19/2014 8:09 PM)
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I can't see a crease - is that right? It looks to me that its bowed? I think it could be massaged back to where it was. I'd thing about replacing the hinges or springs though.
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There is a body shop in Prairie du Sac, which is pretty close to Madison that does a lot of mustang stuff. It is a regular collision repair shop that does classic mustang repair as well. I took a drive down in march and bought some rocker panel moldings for my 70 mach. Also took a tour through his shop, where there was two mustangs getting repaired and out back where he had piles of classic mustang parts. Here is his info from his website. Its a business address, I just can't remember the name of it at the moment. He deals in new and NOS mustang parts. He may be able to help you out or give you some guidance.
847 - 15th Street Prairie du Sac,
WI 53578
608-393-3636
bryan@mustangpartsmall.com
Last edited by MachTJ (9/20/2014 7:19 AM)
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Now it matches the fit of my new Dynacorn! Which is, I think, the same as Drake.
I would try to find an original hood. The aftermarket hoods look just fine when you take them out of the box. What you do not see initially is inferior mettalurgy in the steel. They will bend from hand pressure closing the hood, and lines that looked good originally can creep to form a different shape over time. I have tried two different aftermarket hoods on my 66, both disasters. I even had one Ford NOS black primer hood that was better but still junk. I looked for an original hood for my 66 since 1993 and FINALLY came across one for $300 a couple of years ago. Still have not installed it yet because I do not trust ANY body shop to repaint it without them first sanding off all the crisp lines on it, like the last guy did to my entire car. When I get the appropriate round-tuit, I will chemically strip it and prime it. Might do it myself as far as color. Heck, it doesn't come close to matching color right now, so I have nothing to lose.
Steve69, your color should be pretty easy to match.
ALWAYS go original if there is any possibility of doing so.
Oh... oil your hinges once in a while.
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I got rid of my springs. Made a couple of hooks out of stainless rod. They are attached to the hinges. I hook them to the front of the hing when I lift the hood. A little pain in the butt, but no issues with the hood.
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I agree chunk the springs get some of the gas charged positoners, 69 or 70 had twist hood lock options, I went searcing bccause seem to remember some outfit that made hood re inforcement strips in stainless to keep this from happening can't find 'em. Or theres this option:
Last edited by bulletbirdman (9/21/2014 4:01 AM)
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Thanks for all the info and help guys. It is a repo hood that I bought 15 years ago at a swap meet. Its never looked show quality from my stand point. It was always lightly higher in the center. I did replace the hindges and springs a couple of years ago and it moved up and down ok. My bro in law owns a body shop and painted the car over 9 years ago so Ill have him take a look at first before buying a hood. I hate to spend $500 on those custom hinges. I like your guys ideas and feel a little better about it.
Steve69
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MachTJ wrote:
There is a body shop in Prairie du Sac, which is pretty close to Madison that does a lot of mustang stuff. It is a regular collision repair shop that does classic mustang repair as well. I took a drive down in march and bought some rocker panel moldings for my 70 mach. Also took a tour through his shop, where there was two mustangs getting repaired and out back where he had piles of classic mustang parts. Here is his info from his website. Its a business address, I just can't remember the name of it at the moment. He deals in new and NOS mustang parts. He may be able to help you out or give you some guidance.
Ill give them a call. I see they list a lot of parts on Craigslist in Madison. Where are you from in Wisconsin?
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Craigslist is how I found them too. I'm from the Manitowoc area a bit south of Green Bay.
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What about one of the fiberglass hoods that has the steel structural supports bonded in?
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Steve69 wrote:
. I hate to spend $500 on those custom hinges.
Steve69
I bought the Gas Style Spring Replacement...I believe they were $120.00. They work great. Open the hood very easily and keep it open even on a windy day....Check them out in this pic..
Last edited by Mach1_Ron (9/23/2014 6:23 AM)
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Awesome Engine and Bay Ron! Where did you buy those gas replacements at? What type of strut system are you running for suspension? How do you like it? Thanks Steve69
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Where did you buy those gas replacements at? What type of strut system are you running for suspension? How do you like it? Thanks Steve69
See the link for where I got them...
The front suspension is TCP Bolt On Coil Overs and they are great... Just got my Rod and Cutome 4 Link for the rear and am ready to put it in... That will be a few weeks probably....
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Mach1_Ron wrote:
Where did you buy those gas replacements at? What type of strut system are you running for suspension? How do you like it? Thanks Steve69
See the link for where I got them...
The front suspension is TCP Bolt On Coil Overs and they are great... Just got my Rod and Cutome 4 Link for the rear and am ready to put it in... That will be a few weeks probably....
Thanks Ron! I missed that link. The fit on the 69 hindges ok? Sounds like your going to be running on a rail with your suspension. Steve69
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it will fit your hood just fine. Let me know if you decide to buy it... No i don't get a refferal fee
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Whichever method you go, I suggest making sure the hood hinge pivot points are lubricated well.
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Mach1_Ron wrote:
it will fit your hood just fine. Let me know if you decide to buy it... No i don't get a refferal fee
I will Ron!
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Steve69 wrote:
Awesome Engine and Bay Ron! Where did you buy those gas replacements at? What type of strut system are you running for suspension? How do you like it? Thanks Steve69
Hey Ron, Im going to order these. Anything I should know before I order? Thanks Steve
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Not really... I put an extra Screw up at the top of their bracket, just as insurance. Send me an email and I'll give you a number to call so I can describe what I mean...
ron.huskins@broadridge.com
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Mach1_Ron wrote:
Not really... I put an extra Screw up at the top of their bracket, just as insurance. Send me an email and I'll give you a number to call so I can describe what I mean...
ron.huskins@broadridge.com
When I get that far Ill send you over a message. Thanks!
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