hello;

ok the plug nbnumber will help. i don't trust them to give you the right heat range on a 50 year old csr.

i might try 1 step cooler plug and 1 step richer main jet.

you did not tell me why you thought it was rich.

if you have like 2.80 gears and a high perf cam this will contribute to detonation so what is your rear gearing?.

i guess you are using 91-93 octane since you didn't answer this either?

What heads are they?

does the mechanical advance have freeplay?


your exhaust is not the prob.

your bore is not the prob.

your water temp is not the prob.

see how easy this is?.







 

Last edited by barnett468 (10/04/2014 9:15 AM)

barnett468 wrote:

hello;

ok the plug nbnumber will help. i don't trust them to give you the right heat range on a 50 year old csr.

i might try 1 step cooler plug and 1 step richer main jet.

you did not tell me why you thought it was rich.

if you have like 2.80 gears and a high perf cam this will contribute to detonation so what is your rear gearing?.

i guess you are using 91-93 octane since you didn't answer this either?

What heads are they?

does the mechanical advance have freeplay?


your exhaust is not the prob.

your bore is not the prob.

your water temp is not the prob.

see how easy this is?.







 

I used to smell quite a bit of gas . I know normal gas smell, but this was strong driving down the road .

Mileage was 10-11 miles to the gallon. Still isn't mich better so I was told it's too big of a carb and it will keep the engine rich. I'll post pics of old spark plugs I replaced two weeks ago.


Rear gearing is 2.80

93 octane (from the pump)

I wish I knew what heads they were . They are rusty looking lol .. I bought this car last year June. The guy in Illinois who sold it to me , was really dishonest about the details, and I sas too new to this to know any better , so all that said, blame was both ways . Lol anyway. I have had the heads on this rebuilt this January after I found out that the builder of this engine (not me Nasty65), over tightened and bruised the rocker studs and that eventually killed a push rod . I got the heads redone , machined, new valve seats new studs etc etc

The guy who did the head rebuild for me stabbed the distributor for me and I am guessing it was at TDC. I personally have never checked that not have I had the tools or techniques to do so

Mechanical advance have free play...?????? I am guessing you are talking about trying to move the rotor.. Yes a little . But it seems under tension to go back to its position not stay at the far play end if you know what I mean .. Apart from that I have never gone past replacing points and putting a Petronix in there .. That's the farthest I have opened my distributor. And I am willing to open to farther if taught how :D


I was running two sizes smaller than stock on the jets for about 6 months and it never ran right. So on advice of the members here (which I appreciate extremely) I went back to stock size jets . Might have been 65 or 66. I'll check the ones missing in the box of jets

Spark plugs : autozone is my supplier on spark plugs .. If I look up 65 mustang spark plugs autolite comes up on their website , and whatever number that is (I don't even know what number I ak looking for ), is what I have

Flame thrower petronix coil by the way. It's a higher voltage higher power coil to pair with the petronix points. All this running on 12V straight.

New distributor cap. Just replaced . Have the old one still.

Pinging happens when I push on gas pedal and want to load the engine up to go faster at getting on the highway from an access road, passing someone on the highway etc, just when I want to push the engine past its normal operating state, it gives me that rattling noise from the engine . If not , just keeping the throttle low, it just humms like it's supposed to..

Hope I answersd nasty65's questions too. Ask me more . By the way I really like discussing this here before I go do something... I am out of town all this coming week, will have access to answer things off the top of head or records on the computer for sure

Finding spark plug and cam specs now

And the spark plugs that came out

Is here the heat number written on the spark plugs themselves ?

I think the heat index is 4

Gearing I wish I could change . Lol

I didn't install the gear but I know going 60 mph I am doing 2200 rpm approximately with 15 inch tires. So that puts me at 2.8

That said. I will make a video of what it looks like when I get home and the play I talked about.

I know it's safer to go richer than leaner , I run gasoline and nitro engines on Rc planes and Helis lol and burnt many engines going lean lol

But as far as this goes, I have wanted to get a bit better mileage out of this car .. I mean it guzzles gas lol. I know it's a v8 and I am proud of it lol but I know I can at least get 15.

All that said. Let me know why you think I need to bigger on the jets. Not questioning you, just want to leave why you say what you say

I have never changed anything on secondaries. They have been stock. What should I change first primaries or secondaries? I want to change one thing at a time . So I know what fixed it .


I'll start with the distributor play . So that'll require me to posts. Video.

As per the plan now. This is how I am thinking of doing it .

Open the distributor and make a video of what the internal look like. Change the idle spring and got rid of the play. Make sure its all good

Then drive

Then try the primaries

Then the secondaries

I don't know how to wire shut the secondaries. How will that help. ??

If I shut the secindaries, that'll mean less fuel won't it ? Or will the engine suck more fuel out of the primaries then? Help me understand this please
Thanks a lot

Last edited by Gaba (10/05/2014 9:48 AM)

barnett468 wrote:

Gaba wrote:

Is here the heat number written on the spark plugs themselves ?

I think the heat index is 4

i need all the numbers. its not that simple like it used to be. there is no plug that has just one digit on it.

 

What about the other stuff I edited the post later please let me know what you think about all the rest

barnett468 wrote:

.
Gearing I wish I could change . Lol

why can't you?


That said. I will make a video of what it looks like when I get home and the play I talked about.

ok, good.


I have wanted to get a bit better mileage out of this car. I mean it guzzles gas lol.

put a smaller cam in it and rv type intake and an annular booster type carb and never floor it.

drive down hill only.

drive with a tail wind.

drive really close behind a big truck.

put really skinny tires on it with around 90 psi of air.

don't let any fat chicks in the car.


Let me know why you think I need to bigger on the jets.

because i have tuned/jetted over 500 cars so i know around what jets a certain set up might need plus as i told you, your timing is nit the problem. lean cars willl ping. your car pings so it is likelt too lean. won't know if it helps yuntil you but if yiu ignore jetting and gearing then you need to reduce your timing its that simple.


have never changed anything on secondaries. They have been stock. What should I change first primaries or secondaries? I want to change one thing at a time . So I know what fixed it .

change the pronaries, if it runs ok but does not reduce the pinging, then go up two in the back. if that does not reduce it then we are back to reducing your timing if yiur plugs are the right heat rangs. if it does reduce it then go back down 2 sizes on the front. if it increases it then go back up 2. if it has no affect and it runs the same then leave them because yhe rear was the prob.


i don't know how to wire shut the secondaries. How will that help. ??

won't know until you do thst but it will determine if the primaries are contributing to the pinging. if you just do the jetting then there is no need to bypass the secondaries.


 

I have exhausted years worth of money supply on the mustang. No more major anything. So gearing cannot change. Lol same with cams. I am alone here working on the car. Dropping the front end to take the cams out and replacing... Not going to happen in he next one year .. No major re do's . I have put the wife through a lot. Can't do it no more haha

But the comments are funny about saving gas doesn't change the fact that a small block 302 is drinking quite a bit of gas and making no power haha.

I'll do what you have told me . Of course . No question about that.

Intake change :: possibly could happen one day.. So can the carb change. Those aren't major lol so we will see one day ...

Alright I said I will be posting a video and here it is!!

http://youtu.be/ZQoQ5t0TUWc


That's the play in distributor rotor I was talking about.. Too much?? What do you think?

Buy a timing tape(couple of bucks) when you find true TDC( it COULD be fine the way it is...with the pointer pointing to TDC/0 on the balancer) clean the damper and stick the tape on the balancer with the TDC markings on the tape directly where the pointer is pointing on the balancer. When you run the engine,and using a timing light, read where the pointer is pointing. As a test....move the distrib while the engine is running and observe the tape and pointer.
You want the timing to STOP when it reaches 36* and the RPM's are about 2000.
I sent you a private message!

hello;

ok at 20 seconds in i can see that there is a hair of play which is possibly in your cam gear, no big deal but it could be that your mechanical advance is slightly sticky.

your distributir is "stabbed" in the correct position. as long as you can rotate it from 5 up to at lesat 15 degrees that's all you need.
.