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I am really interested in the idea of a j rack for my 66coupe mostly because of the cost. It looks to me to be an economical answer to a better handling car. What I need is more install info such as parts list, part numbers, measurements, and instructions.
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I personally have no experience with the J rack, butt(ts) did see an article with pics on another site.(Yes, I do occassionally peruse other sites)
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There has to be a better way than those racks with the two center bolts so close together.
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You'll need the following j rack insulators and clamps. One 3/4"x dd universal and for the other universal you'll want to verify that it's the correct one to mate to the rack it will either be I believe 36 spline with flat or the never center mount racks are 17mm dd.
Next get your car on jack stands pull out old assembly. But do not discard as for further reference. Next thing to do that made it so I knew I got my rack in the perfect spot was sense I had a power link I cut the power steering control valve off. This made it so I could keep my old steering in place and figure out rack placement. This helps to visualize how you'll have to mount tie rods. That part comes later. Next grap some scratch piece of paper and a ball peen hammer. Sense you should've taken out the steering stabilizer mount you can now make a paper templet of those bolt holes. Use the hammer to punch out the holes on the bottom of the frame rail. Now you have a perfect top templet. Now you'll want to adjust rack in the best spot to clear exhaust and a thing else I came up with the center of my rack shaft being about 2.5" away. This gives a great shaft angle which will be the best for the universal joints. Here's a pic of the drivers side bracket. I made this after figuring out pinion angle placement. Passenger side mount utilizes the idler arm mounting holes. After brackets are made you need to make a tie rod spacer block 7/8" tall and centered to the racks crown worked out well.
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After the rack spacer is made you'll need a tie rod bar which will need to have two holes drilled out approximately 18.5" center to center. These are your tie rod holes. Probably the easiest way to adapt to the tie rods are special heim joints sold b speedwayauto.com they are the only ones who sale the correct 13/16" heim joints and LH thread They have a center hole of 5/8" that you'll drill Into the long bar you made. After this you'll need new adjusting sleeves which speedway has if I remember correct they need to be 10.50" long. After all this is done you'll need one special hydraulic hose made which will be 3/8" female flare? Which will go to the pump and the other to the rack which is 18mm male o ring x 28. The other hose is easy it's a return hose so you can use the end 17mm male o ring end if you got your rack from a Junk yard and then cut it off at the metal line flare and use some hose and two hose clamps to connect to the pump. Personal preference on the sensitivity on the rack if you don't car for it you can adapt a newer ford pump from a newer mustang and they'll fit in your stock bracket if your car was equipped with power assist. Hope this helps as i didn't go way in depth. Also if you didn't want a different rack so it didn't have center mount tie rods you could try and adapt a escort rack but then it's a mess to figure out tie rods.
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This is what another guy did for his pump
I'm not sure though if this pump will fit all stangs maybe someone else here could shed light on that but hey nothing is impossible to do.
Last edited by True74yamaha (10/12/2014 3:34 PM)
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