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10/12/2014 3:53 PM  #1


Anti Seize on Plugs?

Ok, so as regulars probably well know by now, I have some aluminum cylinder heads.  I jave always used anti seize on anything threading into aluminum, espiecally the spark plugs.  Edelbrock instructions also say so, in bold.

So question - what compound do you all use on yours?  Reason I am asking, I have used some permatex high-temp stuff (silver colored) and have had some odd problems.  First time, my enigner was not firing at all.  I used a timign light to find I had no spark.  I thought I had messed things up when I put a little bit of oil in the cylinders to fix a wash-down situtaiton.  What finally fixed it was pull the plugs, wipe them down and blow them off, reinstall (with new anti seize).  I thought the issue was the oil.  

Until today.  After driving the car and it running fantastic, I let it sit for 2 weeks.  Next time I tried starting it, cranks but not even a hint of it hitting.  Well, I pulled 2 plugs in process of diagnosing and put them right back in with new anti seize.  Now it hits on those cyklinders (but doesn't catch).  

So now I am suspicious.  Did the anti-seize in the process of doing what it is designed to reduce my ground so much I don't get a good spark?  Anyone heard of  this??

 

10/12/2014 4:28 PM  #2


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

I have a hard time believing that anti-seize can electrically insulate the threads of the plug from heads.  Surely at point of torque the compound will be pushed clear and allow metal to metal contact.   Even if this was possible, the gap between the plug threads and head threads will be miniscule compared to .045 that the plug is gapped for.  Even the best insulating dopes can't stop that much voltage at that film thickness.

Is there any sign of blackening in the anti seize which will indicate arcing?  Are you running breaker/points or electronic igntion?

John

Last edited by John (10/12/2014 4:32 PM)

 

10/13/2014 11:27 AM  #3


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

No, no blackening.  But I figured if there was any, it would be smeared around during removal.  I also doubted htis could be an issue, and not fully convinced it is yet, but they ways things are pointing...man it is suspicious.   

Running points with an MSD 6A and a stock distributor.  I had a Pertronix, but it conked out on me. Again.   From other boards aorund, it seems like it is not uncommon for them to randomly go bad.  So I'm tired of replacing them and since I have an MSD now, all the points are doing is sending a signal to the MSD to do it thing.  So I've been running them with good results.  

Drove fantastic for a few days, and for a week it would fire up with outly 1-2 seconds of canking and no coaxing.  Sat 2 weeks, and then nothin'.  Not even an almost hit.  Even when jumpers are conected to a runing car.  Literally all I did during that 2 weeks was push it in and out of the garage 4 times to polish, wash, and wax.  When I pull plugs or ground the coil, it fires spark while cranking.  Cranking with the timing light attached shows timing is ~12 deg. I pulled a valve cover and checked the distributor is not 180 out and the valves are still moving, even though there was no way it could have had an opportunity to do otherwise. 

 

Last edited by Big Tag (10/13/2014 11:37 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

10/13/2014 12:33 PM  #4


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

Worked for Toyota for 37 years and we had a tech that put anti-sieze on plugs.  Well these cars would

come back not running right and upon inspection the plugs where white overheated looking.  We replaced

the plugs without putting anti-sieze and never had a problem.  Toyota's didn't come from the factory with nor

recommend in the service manuel.  I have never used it and never had problem replacing plugs.  I think the 

anti-seize acts as an insulator preventing the proper heat transfer to the water jacket

 

10/13/2014 5:32 PM  #5


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

Well, I've learned over the years that what often seems impossible ends up not being.  I have to admit that with the circumstances you presented, I'd pull those plugs and remove the anti-seize and try again.  It's still hard to believe that at the extraordinarily thin coating the compound would be reduced to, it would either electrically or thermally insulate the plug.  But hey...

As far as using anti-seize in the aluminum heads, is it really necessary anyway?  The only time I've heard of problems with plugs mating to al heads is after being left untouched for many miles, like 100K.  If the anti-seize is causing your starting/drivability problems, run them dry and just pull them every 10K or so.

John

Last edited by John (10/13/2014 5:34 PM)

 

10/13/2014 7:06 PM  #6


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

If you have to have anti-seize stop by the electrical supply house and get a product called penetrox just use a dab on the threads don't paint e'm this stuff promtes conductivity its used mainly on conduit joints.


I made enough money to buy Miami, but pissed it away so fast
 

10/13/2014 7:33 PM  #7


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

bulletbirdman wrote:

If you have to have anti-seize stop by the electrical supply house and get a product called penetrox just use a dab on the threads don't paint e'm this stuff promtes conductivity its used mainly on conduit joints.

X2
 

 

10/14/2014 1:40 AM  #8


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

Ive used antisieze on alum/steel heads for 30 years or so with no adverse effects! I'll continue to do so.  Howard

 

10/14/2014 7:59 AM  #9


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

I've been using Antisieze on my daily drivers caliper bolts for a while now.  Makes the bolts come off a lot better for the next brake job.

Steve69

 

10/14/2014 8:48 AM  #10


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

You bet Steve, exhaust manifold bolts too.

Last edited by hmartin025 (10/14/2014 8:49 AM)

 

10/15/2014 3:18 PM  #11


Re: Anti Seize on Plugs?

hmartin025 wrote:

Ive used antisieze on alum/steel heads for 30 years or so with no adverse effects! I'll continue to do so.  Howard

Same here, but not quite for 30 years yet.  Have had zero problems.

What coil are you using?  I have a huge Mallory coil with MSD-6A Digital ignition and distributor.

And here is another thought...  Could it be the problem is the plug wires and when you remove them to change the plugs you move the wire connections so they work for a while?
  Just a thought... Sometimes the suspected problem is not caused by the suspect.
 


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

Board footera


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