| ||
| Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
I have GT40P heads (1997 and up Explorers) on my freshly rebuilt 78 302 soon to go in my 65 FB. The engine is 9.0:1 static compression with a healthy hydraulic cam, 4-bbl intake, headers and 3:70 gears. I'm getting ready to start it up and was wondering if folks could relay any secret sauce spark plug recommendations as to brand and type. There must be a couple of dozen choices for the GT40P heads with a lot of different electrode materials with widely varying prices. Does anyone have any real world info on why I should buy one type or the other?
Offline

Glad you brung this up. I have a little rinkey-dink job at Pep Boyz and folks are always coming in for new plugs. I sell'em what they ask for butt-win they ask me what I think.....I ask them......What's the function of a sparkplug? Make a spark to ignite a fuel/air mixture,right?! Nothing more/nothing less. It either sparks like it was designed for, or its broken and doesn't. WHY would a high dollar ...multi-tip....super-duper...European-style..super-double flip wham-bam plug do any different than a good old Champion...AC (the guy that "invented" AC was the "inventor" of Champion plugs before he was fired!) or any other plug. THEY ALL do the same thing,right?!
My advice......get what's on sale.
Shoot!.......you not gonna change'em again for 50/60 thousand miles and its the coil or ignition box that determines the strength of the spark anyhow. Spend the $$ on a good ignition box(MSD...Crane....DUI...etc) and good wires.
6sally6
Offline

6sally6 wrote:
Glad you brung this up. I have a little rinkey-dink job at Pep Boyz and folks are always coming in for new plugs. I sell'em what they ask for butt-win they ask me what I think.....I ask them......What's the function of a sparkplug? Make a spark to ignite a fuel/air mixture,right?! Nothing more/nothing less. It either sparks like it was designed for, or its broken and doesn't. WHY would a high dollar ...multi-tip....super-duper...European-style..super-double flip wham-bam plug do any different than a good old Champion...AC (the guy that "invented" AC was the "inventor" of Champion plugs before he was fired!) or any other plug. THEY ALL do the same thing,right?!
My advice......get what's on sale.
Shoot!.......you not gonna change'em again for 50/60 thousand miles and its the coil or ignition box that determines the strength of the spark anyhow. Spend the $$ on a good ignition box(MSD...Crane....DUI...etc) and good wires.
6sally6
I have to disagree. I had a Honda S2000 for 11 years. If I changed plugs with Honda or Bosch as the manual says, the car would run just fine. If I put in NGK's, it would not run worth a crap. Now our Windsors are not that sensitive, but I have had trouble with my 351 when I made the mistake of putting in plugs that were too cold. Get the correct heat range and everything will be copesetic. The Windsor can handle several heat ranges with no noticable problems. I successfully used Motorcraft(I think that was the maker) BF32's and 42's on my D0OE heads. Later model heads do use a different plug. As to maker? I do not think it makes much difference.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (10/15/2014 10:03 PM)
Offline

Use Motorcraft..... DO NOT USE E3 Plugs..... Have had several Old Timer Ford Mechanics say the E3's have issues. I had some in the Mach when I changed to the E3's, had it being looked at by a few folks, until my Old Buddy Ford Mechanic said...Change the plugs. Put in Motorcraft and no more issues. 
Offline
Looking like Motorcraft, but any thoughts on electrode material? Thanks.
Offline

You don't want to use platinum plugs on a carbureted engine. I found that out the myself. Easy to foul out. A good copper core is all you need fo them,
Offline

My point "zackly"! Maybe I weren't clear. E3's and KGB(or whatever) are the super-duper etc. I was refering to. They are over priced and heavily advertised. Champion/AC/Motorcraft/Autolite are all standard/tried&true/originals regular old plugs. Available in a multitude of heat ranges(which is another subject entirely) One of those are almosted always "on sale". In this case........cheaper is bedder!
6sal6
Offline
I agree with Sal. I've been doin this car thing for over 50 yrs and I've always bought what's on sale even when I was racin. I never had a problem as long as everything else was tuned properly.
| REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |