I vote for driving it (with open headers) to the muffler shop. HUH?!

Love your "wrinkle-finish paint" around the MC!......Looks ALOT like mine!

Wonder how hard it would be to fab/cut-out a piece of stsinless to fit into that little indented area behind the MC?!
Don't know if that would dress it up or just look tacky?!!
6s6

6sally6 wrote:

I vote for driving it (with open headers) to the muffler shop. HUH?!

Love your "wrinkle-finish paint" around the MC!......Looks ALOT like mine!

Wonder how hard it would be to fab/cut-out a piece of stsinless to fit into that little indented area behind the MC?!
Don't know if that would dress it up or just look tacky?!!
6s6

Nah, it's just screaming for Steve's power brake conversion instead to hide it 

FWIW, I drove my car with open shorties about 10 minutes to the muffler shop and got plenty of stares. If a policeman pulls you over while you're driving just feign surprise as if the missing part was stolen.  

[edit] your windshield washer reservoir has gone 'limp' 

Last edited by Jeff in GA (10/23/2013 6:51 PM)

My car has no mufflers, both pipes exit just in fromt of the right rear wheel. It is only loud when I make it that way, meaning when I start it and thereafter. Haven't been stopped yet! I am working on a dual mode muffler for it though, so my wife will ride in it (to a bash I hope). You are gonna want the power brakes though. It does hide stuff on my car too. I feel your pain with the header tubes and the cable clutch, I had to cut and reroute two tubes on mine. Unless you just gotta have the high end power of the long tubes, as set of good shorties is a nice way to go. I run my car on the track some and love the high rpm stuff, so I am addicted. My motor is based on the Boss block with internal balanced lightweight forged parts and likes the revs. I want to build one for the street with a cam that is super in the 3000 to 5000 range and shorties and mostly stock parts but for a light weight flywheel/clutch and go have a ball.

JVince wrote:

Howdy,
     I finally finished up installing the majority of the Steve's cable clutch kit on my '65 last night.  Everything was going swimmingly until I snaked the cable around the shock tower and down towards the T5.  I crawled under there and my first two header tubes (Hooker long tubes) were smack in front of the forward cable mount on the tranny.  Gah.  I couldn't mount the cable without severe interference and probably binding issues.

Steve was kind enough to recommend another header style that he's had success with so I went ahead and ordered a set today.  Now I have to decide if I want to scrounge up some 2.5" tubing to rig up an exhaust, track down a friend with a trailer, or chance it and drive 15 minutes up to the muffler shop with open headers.

I was about 5 minutes from getting to test out the new clutch, T5 and explorer 8.8" 4.10 posi rear end we just put in a few months ago.  Pretty sure my neighbors heard my disappointment and colorful language.

Sorry to revive such an old post, but I found it while doing a search and was wondering exactly what headers you went with that cleared the cable clutch?
I'm trying to help my father-in-law pick a set of headers for his 302 equipped '66 coupe that will also eventually get a MS cable clutch.

thanks,
Michael

Will all shorty headers clear the clutch cable or are there certain ones to steer clear of?

Do you think these would work?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88408/applications/year/1966/make/ford/model/mustang
 

Last edited by Michael H. (10/21/2014 3:37 PM)

On my 66 with a 351w, I run Headman long tubes, everythig works, butt a little close in some areas and they take an exrta hand or two to install as the motor goes in.

On my 68 with a 302 (5.0), I run JBA shorties and they are grate, and they can go in and out with the motor in place and clear everything.

I am now trying to figure out what exhaust I will run on the 63 Falcon, as it is even tighter than the 65-66 Mustang.

I have a good friend with a 66 and 302 (5.0), T-5, and he is running Hi-Po manifolds. I truly believe unless you are making 400 plus horsepower that is the way to go. They are clean, easy to get to all the plugs, they dont rust, or loosen up, they clear everything, quieter under the hood, and look right as well.

I'm running a set of cast iron, HiPo that have been ceramic coated.  There's some comfort in the fact that they are likely to never leak or require attention.  The heads were machined, the manifolds were flat, so we used a little hi-temp sealer and no gasket.  No regrets.

Lance

I am running the Headman elite shorty