Considering the amount of work that you would SAVE, it might be worth it to buy a used Explorer rear end, usually under $150.  Then you only have to address one side to make it fit.  I am no expert on this swap, but if I was going to do one, using the inputs from Bullet Bob and others on the forum, I would sell what you have and start with one that is more suitable to fit the intended car.

A guy here in Dallas sells the entire rear ends with traction lock, gears and disc brakes, with all mods done to fit a 65/66, for $900 or $1,200 installed.

Roxy wrote:

Im back at the forum again, i want to thank you all for responses to prior questions i had. This forum is very helpful. Well i spend alot of time reserching narrowing a 8.8 but most of the information i came accross was on narrowing explorer rear ends. What i want to do is narrow a 94 ford mustang gt 8.8 rear end about 1 inch on each side so that i can keep the 4.5 backspace for the wheels, is  there is a easy way of doing this without  having to buy new axles and take all the components out of the rear end?   

With the narrowed Explorer rear axle you end up 1/2" narrower than stock 65/66 (I have 4.25 BS wheels and I still have nearly 3/4" to the springs from the 225 tires). You only have to cut one side...the long (left) side...and get one stock right axle.  Also, I'm not familiar with the 94 Mustang rear brakes but if you snag a two left side Explorer parking brake cables, making the marriage to the stock 66 setup is duck soup with the Explorer.   Some day I'll post some pix.

Cut the axle tube around 3" from the center section and remove 2.875 (2 7/8") from the cutoff piece.  Be sure to scribe a clocking line before making the first cut.  Then bevel both tubes and weld the shortend left tube back onto the stub out of the center section.  It helps if you have a centering jig...I just hapen to know where you can borrow one for the cost of shipping both ways. 

Once it's welded apply heat and cold to pull everything back into alignment....the centering jig helps to keep if from moving out too far and simplfies the straightening process.

If you are determined to use the Mustang, why not consult an axle catalog and see if you can find a factory axle length that will allow you to take two inches, or something close, from one side....whichever side that moves the pinion away from dead center the least.  That way you can boneyard the axle you need.  Failing that, you can make one custom axle instead of two.

BB

Last edited by Bullet Bob (11/26/2014 3:12 PM)

IMHO the $450 is a steep price........by any chance to you have a "pick a part" salvage yard nearby?  If yes, go look for one and save a few bucks.  Besides explorers, look also for Mercury Mountaineers......same tang.....

BTW: what part of the world are you from??

Greg B wrote:

  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moser-Engineering-7700-Axle-Housing-Ends-Forged-Steel-Zinc-Plated-8-8-Ford-Pair-/191404239854?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c9094ebee&vxp=mtr

I have always wondered why someone couldnt use a pair of these, to convert it to 8"/9" small bearing, (they also have them for large bearing)  do the math, figure out which stock axles would work, then no one would have to tear the rear completely down.  

A lot of folks do, Greg.  Especially for racing applications where the "C" clips are a big no-no..  Butt (TS&T) I've read where the  ends  don't fit the Exploder rear or maybe others due to the tapered tube at the outside end.

BB