This is an MS question Sal butt (TS&T), I'd say to go with a manual mc if there is a distinction when ordering.    I'm thinking that a manual will have a 15/16" piston which will make it easier on your leg to build pressure but will require a bit more travel.

Then agin...mebby you should wait fer MS. 

And call tonight...we never did finish our conversation the other day.

BB

rmousir wrote:

unless you have a power booster for power brakes, you want a:

'74 Maverick Manual Disc/Drum Master Cylinder.

That should come with a push rod.  A 'power brake' m/c won't have a push rod.
 

 
You have a part number?!
6s6

Both manual and power brake '74-'77 Maverick MCs have 15/16" (.9375") bores. The primary difference is the power brake MC does not have an input rod connected to it.

Since they are both the same bore size, it doesn't make much difference which one you get. The only thing that matters --if using the power brake version, without actually being mounted to a vacuum booster, is that the input rod does not fall out of the MC when the brake pedal is pulled all the way back. If it does, a pedal stop will need to be fabricated to limit the reward travel of the brake pedal to prevent this from happening.

Inverted flare nut fitting sizes for this MC is 7/16"-24 & 9/16"-18.

The disc/drum Maverick MC is also the same MC that was used on the '75-'80 Granadas & Monarchs, since they all shared the same brake components.

...forgot to add...

IF using a power brake MC, w/o vacuum booster, you will need an input rod from a manual brake donor MC.

Last edited by ultrastang (5/16/2013 5:54 PM)

Things FINALLY going pretty smooth with the scarebird mod. One  more question about the MC. I think I fully understand the difference between the "power" and "manual" disc/drum MC. What about this......can I use my existing MC (drum/drum) and just install a proportioning valve to adjust front/rear bias?
According to Scarebird I can......just wonder is that a smart move? Sure would prevent a bunch of flairing/bending. Jus wondering.
6sally6

I think that you can, but I don't think that you should.  A disc/drum m/c has a larger bowl for the front brakes.  Drum/drum m/c does not. 

Of all the systems on a vehicle to modify, the brakes are undoudtedly THE MOST IMPORTANT. Hopping up the engine to make it more powerful and faster is great and a lot of fun but it's not so fun if you cannot (with lots of control) stop the thing.

Your life, and anyone around you, depends on your vehicle's brakes to work properly. This is not the place to short-cut anything.  If you are going from all-wheel drums to discs front/drums rear, change out your drum/drum pressure differential valve for a disc/drum combination valve. 

If you're going from all-wheel drums to discs front/drums rear, swap out the all-wheel drum MC for one that was actually designed for discs/drums (or a disc/disc MC if you were going that route). --buy new MCs and not rebuilt --unless you just like changing MCs and bleeding the brake system out often. Reman MCs tend to have a high failure rate. Problem is you never know when they are going to fail.

If the change requires fabbing some new brake lines, don't short-cut it by leaving components on that weren't designed to do what you're trying to make them do just for the sake of skipping a step or two. Make the new lines.